Pete M Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 there are some factory shop manuals in here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quinn132 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Pete M said: there are some factory shop manuals in here: Thanks! Found a 94 3.4 for 300.. not sure if it will run. He said the only thing missing is the compressor and alternator. Worth the investment ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 can't say, but it's been sitting exposed to the weather. 300 bucks would easily fix your carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quinn132 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 7 minutes ago, Pete M said: can't say, but it's been sitting exposed to the weather. 300 bucks would easily fix your carb. Said it was running last year when he parked it.. A year of weather exposure... Trying to decide if its worth buying and rebuilding then putting it in. Sounds like it would take me a long time and I need something that can get me to and from work now haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 lots of sellers say lots of things. and yes, that's a big project if it's your primary driver. there are significant rewards once it's finished , but that could take quite some time, especially if things go wrong along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grouch Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Next time it dies on ya, pull the air cleaner off and see if the choke is open or closed. The choke electrical wire is brn w/ bl stripe and it goes to a relay second from the battery on the rt. fender. It's energized from the alt. when the motors running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 9 hours ago, grouch said: Next time it dies on ya, pull the air cleaner off and see if the choke is open or closed. The choke electrical wire is brn w/ bl stripe and it goes to a relay second from the battery on the rt. fender. It's energized from the alt. when the motors running. That's what that relay is for, thanks grouch! The choke plate in my 'manche's carb is super sticky, so I just used a mekzikin bolt to hold it open...it can be fun getting 'er going on cold mornings but it's all about figuring out the tricks, ha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quinn132 Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 On 3/4/2021 at 10:09 PM, grouch said: Next time it dies on ya, pull the air cleaner off and see if the choke is open or closed. The choke electrical wire is brn w/ bl stripe and it goes to a relay second from the battery on the rt. fender. It's energized from the alt. when the motors running. The secondary choke stays wide open as soon as the car starts. I say secondary because I believe my varajet has two chokes and I'm pretty sure the electric choke only controls this one. So it's definitely running lean while it warms up but as to whether it's causing the warm stalling I'm not sure, definitely think this is whats causing cold start problems though because a couple pumps of gas and it won't die in idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quinn132 Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 Update, went around the engine spraying just about every vacuum connection I could find and didn't notice any changes in rpm. HOWEVER I did notice depending on how rich the carb is (it was running richer a few days ago before I got in there and tuned it) applying the brake affects the idle. Some days sitting in park and pressing the brake the rpm would go up and others it drops a little, but it doesnt go away.. makes me think theres a leak in the booster brake, the master cylinder was replaced back in November however the booster is original to the truck (Almost 40 years old!). Tried all the testing you can do with it, it still works but I think even a small leak could be enough to make the carb flood when rich. Either that or float valves a little high. The pedal also makes a hissing sound when I press it down (only time it does this). And it's not hard at all to get the pedal to the floor, in fact you have to push it in an inch or two before you even get brake response. Thoughts before I go drop $100? I'm thinking it should be done anyways as its so old Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quinn132 Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 Not sure how well I did on the tuning, sounds good but this is my first carb experience, anyone got any specific rochester varajet tuning tips/idle screw turn amounts/ what it should sound like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 replacing a 40 year old booster is always a good idea. be sure to look up the brake bleeding procedure in the link in my sig because it's different than most any other car in existence (has to do with the rear height-sensing prop valve). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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