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Street Trucks. Handling, braking, etc..


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Somewhat unrelated, I also read a really good book on materials and realized how many bad things I've done in the past. And better yet, how many bad things most of the 4wd suppliers do.

 

What do you mean by that?

 

 

I never thought about that with the frame. I knew that the springs were pretty close to the tires, just never put much thought into it since a 4-link is too crazy for what I want to do.

 

When you start talking about suspensions other than leaf and coil, it gets over my head.

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Sometimes a person has to test limits, but companies shouldn't. What are you seeing being done incorrectly?

If you link it, you could narrow the frame before the tires and you'd have less to worry about structually, but then you're getting aways into things.

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Somewhat unrelated, I also read a really good book on materials and realized how many bad things I've done in the past. And better yet, how many bad things most of the 4wd suppliers do.

 

What do you mean by that?

 

 

There's some massive problems with how axleshafts are made. The only place that does it right (off my head) is sway-a-way. Apparently there's a bunch of good reasons why a axleshaft needs to a larger diameter at the splines. And aftermarket springs that 'settle' more than a tiny bit are not good news. Oh, and if you ever see anything that's critical and chrome plated, it's bad news (however, that's more of a problem with street rods). There's a few glaring problems with how people build roll cages, especially 4130 ones... And lots of other examples. Personally I liked to only let my welds (in mild steel) to partially air cool and then I'd typically water them, just to save time. Reasoning that mild steel isn't heat-treatable, I figured (wrongly) that it'd be okay. Nope, it causes a massive stress at the edge of the HAZ and I should be shot for doing it.

 

It's just an observation about this entire customized vehicles thing. Lots of stuff works but isn't right...

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