BeatCJ Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 3 minutes ago, 0regon said: Not sure I understand this idea.. Do you mean drill out the crank to the O.D. of the older bearing? I also don't know what an expansion arbor is! I'll google it! thanks for the Novak link I'll get on that asap! No, drill the I.D. of a bushing that fits the crank to match the O.D. of the pilot on the input shaft. Frankly, a machine shop can make an Oilite bushing pretty easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0regon Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 2 hours ago, BeatCJ said: Not on a needle bearing, but a brass bushing. It used to be that we didn't use needle bearings. Oilite is a somewhat porous material, and you soak it in oil. They don't last as long as a bearing, but with older materials, clutches didn't last as long either. Interesting.. Sounds like that could work. I'll ask the machine shop if they can do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldManComanche Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 My bad experience with a brass/bronze bushing makes me favor a needle bearing (like OEM). The guy that I bought the Jeep from told me that he had " a shop" do the late 4.0 to early AX15 swap. I believe that I would rather walk as to use that "shop". My guess is he was the "shop". Back in my early years of auto repair, all, of the cars used the brass bushing and I never had problems with them. But I made sure they had a little grease on them when I put the trans in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0regon Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 5 hours ago, BeatCJ said: It's not difficult to do. If you don't mind an Oilite bushing, you can be successful with just the correct size drill bit. Get a bushing that fits the crank, then just ream the inner bore to fit. I have also made it work chucking one with the right inner bore work with a file, an expansion arbor and a drill press. Not the right way, but when needs must... Added Edit: You could also Contact Novak, they make adapter Pilot Bearings and Bushings. It might make sense to call them and see if they could Next Day ship for you. https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/pilot-bushings/amc-ax15/ And, worst case, load your Comanche on a car trailer, and move it that way. Where in Central Oregon? It's not a horrible drive to Bend for me.... Heck,that might even be the best case, instead of rushing. Load your parts into plastic totes, then you have more time for other things. Just ordered a bushing from Novak!! Looks to be EXACTLY the size I'm looking for! They don't have a needle bearing but recommend a bushing over a bearing anyway. Thank you BeatCJ for the link! I'm pretty sure you've solved my whole dilema! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 12 hours ago, 0regon said: Just ordered a bushing from Novak!! Looks to be EXACTLY the size I'm looking for! They don't have a needle bearing but recommend a bushing over a bearing anyway. Thank you BeatCJ for the link! I'm pretty sure you've solved my whole dilema! Good deal. I've used several of Novak's kits. They use quality parts, and have fantastic instructions. I disagree that a bushing is better. They are more tolerant of less than perfect conditions, but needle bearings will last as long as a modern clutch. But a bushing will easily last 100,000 miles. And that's probably forever in our Comanches, in reality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldManComanche Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 This is the pilot bushing I removed from a 90 Wrangler (same setup as OP has, 97 4.0 & small pilot AX15). The bushing hole was so egg shape, as I said, you could stick your thumb in it. Everything south of the pilot bushing was junk because the input shaft was flopping around and chewed up the transmission. I spent about $1000 on clutch, shafts, bearings, syncros, gears, etc. I replaced the small diameter input shaft with the later large diameter stuff. I did all of the mechanic work myself (I work for free). I still haven't figured what went wrong to cause this, except the bearing failing. Thoughts?? The Wrangler had 7" lift and 35 inch tires. With the mud, rocks and sand we have around here, I am sure the engine/clutch could get pretty hot, this may be a factor. Or sitting in 4' feet of water? I think the needle bearing is better, and the large pilot needle bearing is better still. I agree with BeatCJ, everything I have heard about Novak's parts is good. In this world there are people that can tear up a bowling ball with their bare hands! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 That looks like a misalignment failure to me. In my mind, not a bushing problem, but the monkey that put it together. I destroyed a Ford Diesel ZF-5 output shaft and a BW-1356 transfer case input gear like that. I didn't realize I got a wire pinched between the two, until I took them back out. It doesn't take much with precision splines to cause destruction and carnage. They were too heavy for me to install as one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldManComanche Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 There was so much this deal that didn't make sense. I bought the Jeep not running. I got it to run (a story in itself). The clutch / transmission made a BUNCH of noise and vibration but would move the Jeep around. Transmission appeared to be correctly installed to the engine. Pulled the trans and found the pressure plate hub loose, Input shaft would make an orbit about 1.5 inches around. Inside the transmission was pretty bad also. The only thing I saw from the wear in the bearing was that the input shaft only stuck into the pilot bearing about 3/8th inch -- bearing driven too far into the crank?? I rebuilt everything and it all works great. I don't know if sand got into the pilot bearing and it eventually egged the bearing bore or what?? It now runs very well and shifts great. I stopped worrying about it and just drive it. On To The Next Problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 8 hours ago, OldManComanche said: (a story in itself). that's what the build threads are for. be sure to tell you stories! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 18 hours ago, OldManComanche said: Pulled the trans and found the pressure plate hub loose, Input shaft would make an orbit about 1.5 inches around. Inside the transmission was pretty bad also. The only thing I saw from the wear in the bearing was that the input shaft only stuck into the pilot bearing about 3/8th inch -- bearing driven too far into the crank?? My bet is the worn out input bearing was the culprit. Sounds like that tranny was overdue for a little love. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldManComanche Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 That was kinda my thoughts too. A little research on the worn pilot bushing shows it originally had a bore of .625" to .630"(5/8) the good used input shaft I have (small pilot, no wear) measures .590" at the pilot bearing end. So that leaves a clearance of .035 to .040 inch. The input shaft could wiggle around until it wore the pilot bushing out. This is a chicken or egg kind of a thing. It started out as something wasn't quite right and turned into a bunch of things were really wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0regon Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 Got my bushing yesterday and. It looks to be exactly the right size! Finally going to get the motor in today. Lots of debate about bearings vs bushings but my choice was made by what was available. That said, I have zero experience with oilite bushings! Before I put it in, any of you guys got any tips for me? From what I’ve read you soak it in warm mineral oil for 15min or so then cool sae 30.. can I just use synthetic 10w30? thanks again for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Yes. Warming the oil with the bushing in it to 130 helps the bushing absorb oil, and quenching with cold oil helps seal the oil in. But it's not really rocket science. Bushing life is shorter than a bearing, but long enough. I have a similar issue, new AX-15 to old motor, so I will be using a bushing, too. My first Jeep, a 1961 Willys wagon got a 250 Chevy 6 to replace the missing Willys 6. I used a hand drill to ream that out. Work perfect until the pinion seized. Man, I still wish I could have afforded to fix that truck. But for me, money was tight in 1985. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now