AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 This is the 3.4's alternator does anyone know how to wire it up correctly ? P L F S the S is the bigger pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 2.8's Generator https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1797710&cc=1181393&jsn=385 3.4's Alternator https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3468171&cc=1251931&jsn=537 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 I also don't have the connector that plugs into it guess i could just solder wires to the prongs I'm also wondering if i can find and use the 2.8's old rectifier on this alt to be able to convert the power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 so its a CS130 Alt the red wire goes to Plus of Batt the white wire is the exciter and its internally regulated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Notice how the Plug is labeled (P-L-F-S) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 S is the big pin that sends out 12 volts and the L is your exciter pin that activates the alt to kick on now where am i gonna get a dummy light from ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 The CS130 alternators use a four-connection plug; however, for the purposes of a changeover into a vintage car, you will only be using two of the four connections. The connector will be marked “PLFS” or “PLIS.” Depending on the system, you will only be using the “S” and “L” or the “S” and “I” terminals. “P” is the phase connection for externally powered accessories, such as a tachometer or hour meter, and can be used as an option. “L” is the alternator indicator lamp circuit and in some systems will be the ignition connection. “F” is an external field monitor connection. “S” is the main power distribution connector. The “I” connection (when present) is for ignition and connects to the ignition switch (keyed on/off switch). If you have the PLFS connector, it may be necessary to adapt the “L” connection. On a charging system with an “ALT” bulb, you can connect the ignition switch wire directly to the “L” terminal. If the system does not have an “ALT” bulb, it is necessary to install a 50 ohm diode in the wire leading to the “L” terminal. You can purchase a diode and solder it inline or you can purchase a jumper harness with the diode already in it (Delco 8078 or GM # 12102921). This harness has the 10SI connection on one end and the CS130 connection on the other. If your alternator has the PLIS connection, the ignition wire goes directly to the “I” terminal without the need for extra resistance. This 10SI to CS130 jumper connector is also available from Delco (8077) or Painless Wiring (30707). Many installers have used a short jumper wire from the “BAT” post on the back of the alternator to the “S” terminal; however, the proper way to make this connection when making your own harness is to go from “BAT” to the main fuse box, relay or power feed and then back out to the “S” terminal. This extra step will ensure proper external voltage sense readings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Did you find a plug? I wouldn't solder directly to the terminals. That looks lime a used alternator, did is come with your engine? Should be able to find a donor plug in a yard, GM built millions of those cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 That’s the alt that came with the 3.4 and no I never got the plug with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 14 hours ago, AMC86Kid said: so its a CS130 Alt the red wire goes to Plus of Batt the white wire is the exciter and its internally regulated Correct. It's an internally regulated Delco alternator. Whatever you do, DON'T solder any wires to it. If you can't find the connector, use individual spade terminals or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Good idea Eagle I gotta try to make my own 2 prong connector for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Google Delco 8077 or Delco 8078. Summit Racing has an SI to CS harness for $8.00. They also sell the harness with the appropriate diode for $25.I would copy and pasts links, but my tablet sucks rocks that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Well I tried to wire it up started the engine and got no power out of the Alt i wonder if it’s bad gonna have to go get it bench tested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Well I tried to wire it up started the engine and got no power out of the Alt i wonder if it’s bad gonna have to go get it bench tested Probably not wired correctly. Be good to bench test it anyway to be sure. I’ve seen the two wire plugs fail, only charge when the wires or plug were moved. My guess is the plug or jumper you built isn’t quite right yet. I’d order one of those kits mentioned earlier just to have it simplified. At one point it was a bigger pain to convert from the old alternators to the newer style seems like enough people wanted to upgrade they made kits to make it easier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 Well I got it tested and it passed I think I didn’t spin it fast enough to engage the stator I soldered on female connectors slide them over the pins and hot glued it so it won’t short out Is this a dummy light ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 No that’s a ashtray or footwell light. I thought you only had to use two of the wires and a resistor to make it work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 I really hope you just connected the alternator with spade connectors and hot glue as a quick bench test and don't plan on actually installing it in your truck like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 No it’s just to test it out I gotta take it all apart and redo the brackets and motor mounts anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 Well I hooked it up and still can’t get any power off of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 Ok I did some more tests and here is what I believe I'm testing between the negative terminal on the battery and the positive post on the alt at idle speed I get .5 and when a gas up to around 2000-3000 rpm I get 1.5 volts so I think my alt is bad and the guy that tested it didn’t know how to test it correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 i wonder if maybe somehow i didn't excite the alternator correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 On 4/19/2020 at 8:25 PM, AMC86Kid said: I can't tell from your photos, but unless you have 12+ Volts to the Bat+ stud and a Ground to a negative post on a battery, like in your diagram above, it won't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 Well I hooked it up like in the diagram and spun it with a drill at 900 rpm and I got to dummy light to turn off so I think it works and I excited it now I just got to get it back in the truck and spin it faster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC86Kid Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 Well I got a new alternator hooked everything up turned the vehicle on and got 14 volts Success Boy am am I happy to see it work like it’s suppose to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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