88 mj Pioneer cooling/vacuum line problems.

[Mobius1]

I do apologize for not searching very well but i'm at work and shooting fo a quick answers so I can go back to working on the truck on my breaks and lunch.

 

Problem 1. NO clue if its over heating or not. when it gets hot and you come to a complete stop it'll stall out and you have to wait 10-15mins before it'll fire back up. So I have to give it some gas when i'm at a stand still.

Problem 2. i have no clue what goes where as far as vac lines off of the valve cover. I got the jeep last week and both lines were running to thier own oil cans. One port I did find and plug a line into just to see what happends makes it run rough and some times causes it to stall while at idle.

Problem 3. I have no gauge lights at night so I have no clue how fast I am going or how much fuel I have unless I use a flash light. Turn signals light up along with oil light and three other things.

 

I have a 4th problem but that requires pictures when I get home to even help out becasue I can't describe the two things I found unplugged and what not.

[mjeff87]

We need to know what engine you're working on...2.8 V6, 2.5 or 4.0 before we can diagnose properly.

 

For the dash lights, start by checking the 5A instrument light fuse in the fuseblock. If it's good, wiggle it around a bit...it may have intermittent contact. I had the same problem and wasted days of troubleshooting it until one evening, when it was dark out, I wiggled it and saw tiny flashes behind the fuseblock. Never would have seen it if it weren't dark out :D

 

Jeff

[Mobius1]

yeah sorry I forgot about the motor size. Its the 2.5L 4 banger. As far as fuseblock your going to have to either draw a map or have a picture if your not talking about the fuses directly under the dash. But in regards to that, all the fuses were fine. If it isn't a loose connection then maybe a burnt out bulb or three?

[mjeff87]

Yes, the fuseblock under the dash. Fuse #8, 7.5A (I've got a 5A in mine for some reason :nuts: ). Problem with mine was the clips that hold the fuse blades in were/are partially corroded, thanks to a leaking clutch M/C in the past that coated my fusebox with brake fluid. Wiggle it around a bit and see if it's not making full contact. I doubt all the bulbs blew, because there are about 8 or 10 of them that backlight the cluster. They are fed power by an orange wire with black tracer on the left side multi-pin connector on the back of the cluster. That power wire comes out of the headlight switch.

 

For the two lines off your valve cover....the big one in the front goes to the side of the airbox, to *theoretically* let clean air in the top side of the engine. The small line on the rear of the cover goes to a small vaccuum port on the base of the TB, left-hand side if you're looking at it from the front. It's supposed to pull crankcase vapors back out of the top end back into the manifold to be reburned.

 

Jeff

 

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[Pete M]

Does the dimmer on your headlight switch work? If you rotate the knob back and forth, do any lights come on or dim?

 

Also, you may want to review rule #2. :thumbsup:

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239

 

This club isn't like other sites on the web, I promise. :D

[jaekl]

Your running symptoms sound like my truck when I bought it on the cheap. The lines running to oil cans says alot too. Check the compression and the plugs. I suspect you have holes starting in the pistons causing a lot of blow by.

Mine would fire up and then start blowing out oil from the disconnected hoses. After stalling it wouldn't start for a while. With the hoses on it would stall sooner probably from loss of intake vacuum. Of course there was litle power.

Replaced the pistons and it's been running great for two years now.

[Mobius1]

Well i'm used to Elantra club I belong to when it comes to questions that no one researched first. Anywhoo I doubt i'll replace the pistons seeing as in how i'll be in basic training for the USAF come the start of the new year if not sooner. So if the wife indeed wishes to keep the truck like we first talked about then maybe after we get settled in i'll do that. As for now I just want it to survive and get me to and from work while i'm trying to sell my Elantra GT. When it comes to the fuses, if it needs like 7.5 do you have to use that or can you use something else like 10 or 15 for example? Back to the vac lines when I redid the valve cover i hooked the lines up correctly and it still runs a bit rough. But what exactly is my problem when it comes to the sitting at a light and it'll stall if I don't give it a bit more gas? Only does that when its hot and didn't matter if the vac lines were hooked up or not. Oh almost forgot in regards to the dimmer switch...I get nothing at all. Only thing that works is the running lamps and head lights when pulled to the correct position.

[Pete M]

The dimmer switch might be bad.

[Mobius1]

Alright just got done wiggling, switching and even scraping to see if maybe the contacts were dirty. Still got a whole lot of nothing. I did how ever get pictures of two things that I have no clue what they are.

 

what are these?

[mjeff87]

The two pics on the left are the idle speed control for the power steering pump. It bumps the idle up a tiny bit when the wheel is turned. The red wire coming out of the loom behind the alternator is the positive lead for the A/C compressor for A/C equipped models.

 

Not sure what the wire is under the cover there....mine has one as well.

 

And Pete is spot on with the headlight switch. Replace it and I bet you get your backlighting back.

 

Jeff

[Mobius1]

Do I need to keep that power steering pump sensor connected? i only ask because its a bit broke and won't stay on there. My dash lights work but when they want to now. freakin loose connection...also what temp or average temp to the comanches run at? At least for the 2.5L, bought a sunpro temp gauge since there is nothing more than a stupid light.