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MJ/TJ steering


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Anyone know if the factory draglink in a TJ is identical to the one in an MJ? I'm assuming the tierods are the same (anyone confirm?) but the length or bends in the draglink could be off due to possible different placements of the steering box.

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and I've got ZJ steering (tie rod) on my MJ...bolts in directly. Only difference is the ZJ rod has an adjusting sleeve at the TRE end, and the XJ/MJ doesn't. I just set the length to match the old rod and bolted it in.

 

Jeff

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the ZJ tie rod is plenty strong.

 

Stronger than a stock draglink anyway.

 

 

dscn1817me3.jpg

 

my brothers OTK setup using a RHD draglink and a ZJ tie rod.

Tie rod was fine, the draglink needed some work.

 

and yes, we were using the winch and a snatch block to straighten it.

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Because i'm a pic lady of the night:

 

PICT9208r.jpg

V8 ZJ steering :cheers:

 

 

PICT9205r.jpg

Comparison

 

My old steering set up was not broken - I just felt the need to upgrade. Puny steering with 35's just stunk of disaster. Plus now I have a complete back up set for the trail. jamminz.gif

 

But honestly I know nothing about TJ steering and if it'll work or not. Sorry :thwak:

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I have the Currie HD TJ steering on my MJ.

The Currie setup works on the TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ as they all have the same part number (CE-9701).

 

Why spend the $$ on the Currie setup when you can have a 1-ton crossover setup for $150 less?

 

why spent $249 on yours and keep it under the knuckle?

 

sorry, but that just doesn't make sense to me. Sure it's a bolt in affair, but if I'm upgrading my steering it's going OTK.

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I have the Currie HD TJ steering on my MJ.

The Currie setup works on the TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ as they all have the same part number (CE-9701).

 

Why spend the $$ on the Currie setup when you can have a 1-ton crossover setup for $150 less?

 

why spent $249 on yours and keep it under the knuckle?

 

sorry, but that just doesn't make sense to me. Sure it's a bolt in affair, but if I'm upgrading my steering it's going OTK.

Going over the knuckle on the pass-side requires a new knuckle and/or a funky bracket that will most likely than be the week point. The TRE's won't fit without hitting the rim otherwise. Not a lot of people want to run a 17" rim to clear them, or a funky offset to eat up the bearings...

 

You could run it's OTK on the drivers side, but than your tie-rod wouldn't be parallel (read bumpsteer).

 

It's a cheaper than most setup that solves a lot of steering issues associated with going over 4.5" of lift. I never claimed it was the best kit available on the market. However it's 1/2 the price of a OTK setup, and a 100% bolt on setup.

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I have the Currie HD TJ steering on my MJ.

The Currie setup works on the TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ as they all have the same part number (CE-9701).

 

Why spend the $$ on the Currie setup when you can have a 1-ton crossover setup for $150 less?

 

why spent $249 on yours and keep it under the knuckle?

 

sorry, but that just doesn't make sense to me. Sure it's a bolt in affair, but if I'm upgrading my steering it's going OTK.

Going over the knuckle on the pass-side requires a new knuckle and/or a funky bracket that will most likely than be the week point. The TRE's won't fit without hitting the rim otherwise. Not a lot of people want to run a 17" rim to clear them, or a funky offset to eat up the bearings...

 

You could run it's OTK on the drivers side, but than your tie-rod wouldn't be parallel (read bumpsteer).

 

It's a cheaper than most setup that solves a lot of steering issues associated with going over 4.5" of lift. I never claimed it was the best kit available on the market. However it's 1/2 the price of a OTK setup, and a 100% bolt on setup.

it looks beefy, and well done.

I guess I'm just moving past bolt on stuff.

I've made compromises previously because of my lack of understanding/fabrication skills.

Now I just can't buy anything, I suppose it's an evolutionary thing.

WHen you start to become unsatisfied with bolt ons you just start making your own junk.

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