IronManche87 Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Okay, so it's been a while since I've posted (thankfully since things were going good) but now Ironmanche is giving me some trouble.... Lately it's been randomly stalling out mostly while idling but occasionally it will stall as I pull into work (no crazy turn to make the battery post touch the radiator hose bracket and short which my xj used to do). It used to be once in a blue moon, but today it died pulling into work and multiple times sitting idling afterwards. It starts right back up with no hesitation. When idling, sometimes it sounds as if it skips a beat as if it dies but Its only a fraction of a second and isn't really noticeable but apparently noticeable enough to severely irk me... Its an 87 mj 4.0 2wd aw4. Every culprit I can think of has been replaced well within the last yr. New cps, coil/module, cap/rotor/plugs/wires, new fuel pump with good pressure, new map/tps(but have yet to actually adjust the tps)/IAC, clean throttle body, new emissions hoses. Only thing I HAVEN'T replaced is the actual distributor w/ the pickup coil. Everything else is new. What exactly should I test and what values am I looking for when doing so? Voltage, resistance, etc?? I know before I adjust the tps I have to make sure that I don't have and variance in ohms as I wiggle the harness. Slight variance which is why I haven't quite gotten that far yet. Any help would be much appreciated!!! Thanks all!! Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Eliminate CPS as a possible cause. CruiserTip7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 You can run with the dizzy harness unplugged... Have you ever cleaned your throttle body and IAC? http://cruiser54.com/?p=60 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 You can run with the dizzy harness unplugged... Have you ever cleaned your throttle body and IAC? http://cruiser54.com/?p=60 Thanks for the reply! Did not know that! And yes throttle body shines like a babies bottom and IAC is new but have not looked at it since. Will pop it out after work! Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 Eliminate CPS as a possible cause.CruiserTip7 Thank you sir!Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 UPDATE I've still been experiencing occasional stalling but has started backfiring/bogging out when attempting to accelerate and have to try to pump the gas to gain any speed as it will continue unless at a low acceleration. Even then it still wants to bog out and backfires. I have noticed that sometimes when it's doing this I can pull over turn it off and start it back up and usually will drive fine afterwards. I've redone the sensor grounds but still getting variances in ohms while performing the wiggle test. Going to pull plugs and check them out and will update. Any help/ideas are greatly appreciated at this time! Thanks all!Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 Also have tested cps and it is well within the range although while attempting to check ac voltage at plug while someone cranks over, I'm getting nothing. But know I'm getting powerSent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 4 hours ago, IronManche87 said: UPDATE I've still been experiencing occasional stalling but has started backfiring/bogging out when attempting to accelerate and have to try to pump the gas to gain any speed as it will continue unless at a low acceleration. Even then it still wants to bog out and backfires. I have noticed that sometimes when it's doing this I can pull over turn it off and start it back up and usually will drive fine afterwards. I've redone the sensor grounds but still getting variances in ohms while performing the wiggle test. Going to pull plugs and check them out and will update. Any help/ideas are greatly appreciated at this time! Thanks all! Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Tip 6 comes to mind...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Tip 6 comes to mind...... Unfortunately I've already done both sensor as well as injector ground upgrades....Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 I wonder why you're seeing a variation when doing the "wiggle test" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 I wonder why you're seeing a variation when doing the "wiggle test" Another bizarrity is my input voltage is reading 11.5... I'm leaning towards issues with my harness... The variance in ohms even after the grounds is beyond me x.x I've done the c101 refreshing as well...Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 2 wires are melted together somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 2 wires are melted together somewhere. Any ideas on places to start looking? My harness is pretty aged and I think a new harness is in its future but not until I can afford to rebuild the bottom end (already replaced valve train and head) and start fresh.Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Gotta find why the reference voltage is that high. c14 and c15 are reference voltage outputs from the ECU. Find out which one is reading high and go from there. Pretty much has to be between the engine and ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Gotta find why the reference voltage is that high. c14 and c15 are reference voltage outputs from the ECU. Find out which one is reading high and go from there. Pretty much has to be between the engine and ECU. Thank you so much cruiser54! I greatly appreciate it!! I'm also super new to all this and am only 20 with tons of BASIC knowledge but very limited knowledge when it comes to electricity and wiring but trying to learn. I just purchased a Bosch multimeter in an attempt to dive in and tackle it myself. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 well, we're to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronManche87 Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 well, we're to help. And you have no idea how much I appreciate it!! Thank you!!Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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