JeepcoMJ Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 brake line extension is something I feel hasn't been discussed. I don't have any money to spend really, so I'm buying the necessities for the lift and thats it. those include coil springs, trackbar, leaf spring perches for the rear, and front shocks. so for the rear brake line, I have been looking at how it is set up. and also how my prop valve is not intact, but the mount for it is. anywho, I am planning on simply dropping the frame-side of the brake line to the end of the prop valve mount, and extending the metal brake line to accomodate. this will be temporary (as in, less than a year), and I'm 95% sure that it will serve my purposes and allow me to get full articulation at little (zero) cost. the front...well, I straightened the metal brake line and at the lift that I have, it's cutting it very close to non-functional if I articulate AND turn at the same time. so the plan is to extend the front metal brake lines by about 2.5" with some drop brackets, this will allow for full articulation, they won't be rubbed by the tires or hit by the control arms. highlite, extend metal brake lines to all 3 rubber lines, = functional and cheap if you have the capacity to remove old lines. any opinions? remember, my budget is spent if I intend to go to attica on the 10th. I'm cutting it close as is, and sadly I may have money problems to go down there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 Just get some short stock line and call it good I think i have $4-$5 in my 8.8 brake line I used a MJ front rubber line and a stock piece of metal line over to my SS line. Then I used anther piece of stock metal line over to the stock Explore rubber line. And as far as my line from the MC back I went right in front of the fuel tank and bent a piece of stock line back to my SS line. I have less then $50 buck in my brakes with SS lines (bought them used) I have to go to work but I will try and get pic later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I personally used this same thing on my rigs. I used 6" hard line and a union along with one of them fancy dancy plasctic wire tire things you find at the Home improvement store.. that and a self tapping bolt :brows: Its the same thing Rusty's sells as a brake line extension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 30, 2007 Author Share Posted July 30, 2007 I'm happy now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpfrogger Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 I just moved the rear brake line bracket from the frame to the bracket that mounts the proportioning valve. I simply unbolted it from the frame above and lowered it down to the two holes that hold the proportioning valve. The top hole in the bracket I drilled out slightly and then I drilled a new hole in the brake line bracket to match the bottom hole location of the prop. valve. It took 15 minutes and didn't cost a dime. It lowered the line at least 4-5 inches. Works for me. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share Posted July 31, 2007 thanks! I have to remove mine entirely because I'm doing an SOA and will need the axle out of the truck.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I just saw my buddy's XJ for the first time since it was in the shop when he got tons of psycho work done to it, and he had his lines front and rear custom made at I beleive 28" each. I don't think it cost him very much, but I can ask my other buddy how much they cost, and how hard they are to do, and where to get the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 I just saw my buddy's XJ for the first time since it was in the shop when he got tons of psycho work done to it, and he had his lines front and rear custom made at I beleive 28" each. I don't think it cost him very much, but I can ask my other buddy how much they cost, and how hard they are to do, and where to get the parts. I can get the line, and crimps for the end for high pressure, for under $50 for the entire project from my local bumper to bumper. but I can do it cheaper by myself with steel line, so that's what I'm doing as my budget won't allow that extra $$$ if I want to title it and make it to the badlands with a functional rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now