Tylerzap Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 So yesterday I removed the aftermarket cruise control from my 88 MJ 4.0 5 speed. Appears to be a older Audiovox unit, although I couldnt find any markings. Took the unit and associted wiring out, didn't mess with/cut/unplug anything non relating to the system. Now when I hit the brake petal, my turn signals light up solid. All of them. Can anybody point me in the right direction of what to check? I just don't know where to start and couldn't find any info though searching. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 The only odd thing I've found so far. This is the main harness behind the cluster, far drivers side almost behind headlight switch. Was wrapped in electrival tape and didn't look factory to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTA Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 The only odd thing I've found so far. This is the main harness behind the cluster, far drivers side almost behind headlight switch. Was wrapped in electrival tape and didn't look factory to me There are lots of factory splices like that on these vehicles just covered in tape lol. Start by checking your ground wires! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Hi Tylerzap, This is a weird one. As DTA indicated above, bad grounds can cause all kinds of mischief. Typically, though, if it's a ground problem feeding back, the lights will not burn at full intensity, they will be dim. Also, are the front turn signals lighting up as well? I think you indicated they were. This would make ground issue less likely. One by one, pull each of the turn signal bulbs, and see if that resolves the issue. There have been cases where one filament of the dual filament bulb will sag onto the other filament, and this will let current feedback into the other circuits. Also, someone on these forums, several months ago, put a single contact bulb in where a dual filament bulb should have been, this shorted across both contacts in the socket and caused feedback. If you've checked each and every bulb, the only other area I could think of would be in the turn signal switch itself. The brake light switch feeds into this switch, if this switch had failed internally it might direct that current to all of the bulbs. But certainly check grounds, especially if lights light up dimly, and pull all the bulbs. Good luck! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Yes the front markers areally coming on. Nice and bright. Dash lights come on too. I will give the bulbs a try, however it seems to me the issue is related to how they had the unit wired as everything was working fine just before I disconnected the system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Understand completely your belief that it's related, if things were fine before hand, and messed up afterward, that makes sense. However, I can't for the life of me imagine how only disconnecting something could cause this. Is there any chance that any of the wires you disconnected could be shorting against each other? Could you have done anything that would have affected the turn signal switch, even bumping it, during the process? Good luck! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Understand completely your belief that it's related, if things were fine before hand, and messed up afterward, that makes sense. However, I can't for the life of me imagine how only disconnecting something could cause this. Is there any chance that any of the wires you disconnected could be shorting against each other? Could you have done anything that would have affected the turn signal switch, even bumping it, during the process? Good luck! Gene Right!? It's definitely not an issue I have faced before. I'm assuming that where they hooked the wire to kill the cruise, when brakes are pressed, is contacting somewhere it shouldn't but I'm probably wrong. As far as the switch itself on the column, I do not believe I did anything to it or messed with any of its wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Aftermarket cruise control kits tap into the brake light circuit to kill the cruise function when the brakes are applied, That 4-wire or 5-wire ? splice looks like where they did it - it's not a factory splice. I would cut that splice out, then connect the commonly colored pairs back together separately, i.e. the RED/VIO pair, and the other two/three if the wire colors match. It won't short anything and you can always hook the 4 or 5 wire splice back up if it doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Certainly do what Don (hornbrod) says above. He's right about 99% of the time. But I can't understand why removing the system would have caused problems. If wires were improperly spliced together, that would've been done years ago when the system was installed. So I don't understand why problems would start upon removal. Much stranger things have happened.. Let us know how it goes. Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Heck, I'm just guessing too. :yes: I've done a lot of vehicle wiring and can't recall ever seeing a bundle of wires spliced together with different jacket colors unless it's a "foreign" splice. But I understand what Gene is saying. It's worth a shot and you can always go back to the way it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 Thanks for yall's help so far. I went to take care of those wires. It is a total of 6 wires and they are all pink with no stripe and do run in the factory harness. Not getting power to it when I press my brakes with my test light or when turning on lights/blinkers, ect. So I belive it rules that out as being the problem. My turn signals are non functional from the stalk, however my high/lows wipers work. My Hazard lights are functioning perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 It is a total of 6 wires and they are all pink with no stripe and do run in the factory harness. It was hard to see from the pics that they were all the same wire color - it looked like there was a violet stripe on a couple of them. . So yes, that's not the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 About the only thing I could add, if its not the TS switch, is trailer tow wiring on your vehicle? This would be common to all the circuits mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 Alright so while digging around, I found its either the brake light switch wires near the connector, or the back/yellow wire. I'll mess with it more tomorrow AND yes it has trailer wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 I haven't had much time to mess with it since it happened, just a few minutes here and there. But after moving the brake light switch wires and a black/yellow wire connection last night, the turn signals no longer cut on when I brake. And as I said EVERYTHING else functions properly including hazards. So now my only issue is, my signals not working at all. Will try to get some pictures up soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Any suggestions anybody? Can find anything that looks wrong. It's been very frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tylerzap Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Bump. Checked everything. I'm lost. And since I swapped the flashers with my other Comanche, my hazards aren't working with a known good flasher. Diagrams aren't helping much either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Try disconnecting all the trailer tow wiring from the rear harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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