1987Comanche Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Any updates on this one? I haven't progressed any further on the trans/clutch issue. I've been driving Georgia a little around town (been using a little GM N body as the DD for work) but that ended on Saturday when the RF caliper locked up on me. RF hub measured 468 degrees after I limped Georgia home so it looks like I'm doing a brake job too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 I've been busy with other stuff. Might poke at it tonight but I can't tear it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 I might have got somewhere tonight. Or it's just screwing with me. I ordered a new master cylinder and a line, since the one on there did not visually match any of the listed parts and used an integrated line. As it turns out it appears that the new Luk master is a 1" bore, and the one of unknown origins on there was a 7/8" bore. Or at least that's what it appears, short of actually pulling the piston out of them it's hard to say. Does anyone know what the clutch master bore size is supposed to be? Installing the replacement clutch line was insane. I ordered a Dorman one since I can't afford dealer parts, and I could not find any other options. It was almost the right shape, but would not possibly fit. Modifying it to fit turned into a long ordeal of chasing my tail. I was very angry at some points in this process, and may have said bad words in an outside voice. Anyways, bled it out and surprise surprise, it appears the clutch will now fully disengage. It also markedly changed the engagement point in the travel, so I'm thinking that's a good sign. Tomorrow I will try to drive it some more and see. The clutch itself may still be a roasted piece of junk even if this was actually the problem all along. Also I need to track down some new bushings for the clutch pedal pivot point, I didn't realize how sloppy they were until I was monkeying around in there trying to get the old master out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 One of the best few dollars I ever spent on my MJ (aside from the dual diaphragm booster) was a braided stainless steel clutch line from AA. To hell with trying to contort a hard line into where it's supposed to go..... :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 One of the best few dollars I ever spent on my MJ (aside from the dual diaphragm booster) was a braided stainless steel clutch line from AA. To hell with trying to contort a hard line into where it's supposed to go..... :yes: Umm, yeah, wish I knew that before. I thought it wasn't going to be a big deal until I laid out where it was sorta supposed to go... :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 So, it still does it once you drive it for a while. There's a POS Ford in my shop that needs to get finished up, then I will pull the trans out of this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 That's a bummer :(. I found a good deal on a clutch master ($20 for a Bendix MC) so figured I'd give it a try. It sounds like it might help a bit but not necessarily solve the problem. When do you think you'll be pulling the trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Tomorrow is the plan. Unless I clean up my scrap/tires/yard instead. The POS Ford is gone, and hopefully he sells it so I don't ever get talked into working on it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 So I have some family stuff going on and figured I'd take most of the scrap out of my back yard before I tore the truck apart, but I did manage to pull the tranny tonight. Two things I noted. The asshat that put this thing together reused the e-torx bolts, one of them just about smeared right off on me... And there is a pilot bushing in the crank, and it is mangled. I'm going to try to pull the clutch off after dinner and see if there's anything else I can figure out at the time. It is a Luk clutch, so I'm guessing it was new as of the tranny swap, but who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offthepavement Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 So I can't say for certain what is wrong. Bear with me on the pictures, I had to Imgur this because Photobucket is garbage and won't upload (plus has deleted a bunch of my pictures). Imgur doesn't auto resize, but I think the forum does so hopefully it isn't too bad... The pressure plate is a Luk, and appears to more or less match the one I purchased. It doesn't look like it has any excessive wear or damage on it. I'm guessing it was new as of the swap. The friction disk was not a Luk, rather it was marked T-NKK. It still had a fair whack of meat on it. I'm not sure if the flywheel is OEM or not. It still had a slight crown to it. I wasn't thinking when I measured the wear on it and measured it from the bolt face instead of the mounting surface, but compared to the new Luk one it is about .020" of wear. I should measure it again correctly. You can see there is more crown on the new flywheel. I probably could have got all technical and measured that with feeler gauges. Unfortunately I've screwed myself. The AX-15 is a 92, to match the tcase, and thus I will need a pilot bushing from a CJ. This one was pretty mangled before I slide hammered it out. Hopefully I can get one tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 Also, another thing I did prior to pulling this apart was to swap the clutch pedal and pivot bushings out for a known good one. I noticed there was a lot of play in the pedal and it would C#*@ over, even jamming it all the way to the floor would not cause the pedal to contact the 'stop' on the bracket. That said, I don't think the pedal is supposed to contact there, but I am curious what people have to say? It's still maybe 3/16" away, or so I recall, I'd have to check again. I did possibly gain a little travel by swapping it over though, and the pedal feels better, so I'm glad I did it either way. Regardless, it did not solve the issue, it still did the same thing where everything seemed okay until I drove it a bit and then it would not disengage. I was able to get the truck to creep on my garage floor (which is basically perfectly level, I did not have it poured with a grade, no code against that here) with the clutch pedal all the way down, both forwards and reverse. Anyways, I'm still not sure what to say the issues I am having are caused by. Maybe a stackup of things? Random friction disk, worn out flywheel, beat up pilot bushing, and perhaps a sloppy pedal all coming together in a perfect storm? Or I'll put it back together and it still won't work. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 The word C#*@ is censored? Like, to C#*@ a gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 The mating surface on the flywheel isn't the greatest looking but, to your point, I don't really see a smoking gun that explains the trans/clutch issue. IIRC my 2nd replacement LUK disc had the same markings but no manufacturer's stamp. I clearly remember the 1st replacement clutch (2013) having "flywheel side" stamped in it as I looked closely for it on the 2nd clutch disc and didn't find it. I hate those external Torx bolts. I replaced mine with conventional bolts when I pulled the trans. Here's where it gets interesting. I pulled my old flywheel from the dark recesses of the basement and checked it for crown. The crown on my HO flywheel is opposite the crown on your Renix flywheel. Granted it's worn but I measured 0.002" near the outer edge of the working surface and 0.0035" at the inner working surface: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 I replaced Georgia's front calipers (RF was hanging up), took her for a ride, and checked to see if the truck would creep forward with the pedal to the floor. Tried it 2x and she didn't move either time. I haven't checked the pedal, bushings, etc but I didn't notice any issues with it. I'll have to check to see if it contacts the stop. One point of clarification. The flywheel in the pics is not the flywheel currently in my truck. I wanted to check for taper. The one that's currently in the truck was cut and should have zero taper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Any updates? I changed the clutch master cylinder on Georgia as it's fairly quick. The pedal feels a bit better but the problem remains. The pedal assembly looks ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 My pilot bushing came in yesterday afternoon. I buttoned it up tonight (also did rad and heater hoses, tsat, and valve cover gasket while I had it down) and went for a test drive. Thus far zero issues with disengagement, and that was with a fairly long test drive (40km). I will see how it fares tomorrow. Fingers crossed, replacing every part other than the transmission has fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 That's quite encouraging. Hopefully it continues to behave well. It would be great if all I need is a clutch and a flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 I've got about 120km on the new clutch now, seems like it is working fine. I will try to do some mild wheeling on the weekend and see if it continues to be happy. I do need to do my rear main seal, or just the pan gasket (if I pull the pan I will do the rear main). I was kinda hoping it was just the valve cover, but that would be way too easy. While I don't think oil getting on the clutch was a contributing factor, or even actually happening, I don't like it leaking nor want it to be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 And one note about the clutch master cylinders, I checked, the bore size is 11/16" for an internal slave. There is some slight variations in bore size over the years, but if anything the internal slave one appears to be the smallest of them. Or it is just measuring error resulting from sizes being listed in metric and imperial. So getting a newer one (which I'm guessing is what was on there, with the integrated hose and a quick disconnect fitting) probably wouldn't cause problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Still working ok? How many KM do you have on the clutch now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Maybe 500km on it now. 200km on gravel/dirt/some abusive stuff. Everything still works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offthepavement Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 Definitely keep us posted on how she does as you continue to put miles on it. I'm getting better at adapting my driving style to compensate for the clutch/shifting problem but, long term, I need to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offthepavement Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 I'm starting to have this gear engagement or lack there of problem myself lmdo hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha woooo so when i stop at stop sign/light if i don't down shift into first before completely stopping it is a pain to get it into gear unless i shift into any other gear first and then into first haha or if i engage/disengage clutch ever so skillfully(up&down 10 times slowly) it slides in.its has been like that since obtaining said comanche come to think of it so wasnt sure if that is on me not knowing how to drive a manual or on ol mud bud itself haha so i guess its the flywheel and what have yas there Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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