mr4x4 Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 any body know if the super30 is worth it I'm going to put an arb or ox locker in the front and I want the bigger ujoints I'm also going to get rid of the vacuum disconect and put alloys in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 If you can hold off a few months I will have a built D30 with alloys and Hi-steer for sale. It has 4.10 gears and a lockright, with lca skids and a truss on the passenger side uca mount. Also has 1.5x1/4 DOM centerlink with 1ton chevy TRE's and the Terra drag link. It will be sold along with my 8.8 that isd lincoln locked, with BTF diffcover, and spidertrax wheel spacers. But as for the super 30 being worth it... to be honest I wish I would have dumped the money right into a d44 or a d60. would have came out to be about the same. I got a 78 ford hp44 that I think I am going to build just cause I have it, and really can't afford another grand for a hp 60 housing. Only if I change my t-case to a passenger side drop, then I will be set, it seems that the chevy d60 is easier and cheaper to find. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr4x4 Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 this will be june or july I have high steer on now but I was wondering before I stick a ton of money into it other wise i'll get the cromolly axles with bigger ujoint and a ox locker or arb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 I went with the yukon alloys and 760 u-joints, and have had zero issues since doing that upgrade. I think the going price is around 325 for the complete set of shafts with joints. I would definately call around and see if you can get free shipping for them. Do that and throw a lock right in it, and you will be pleased with the on road and offroad ability. and you won't have a jag of money into your axle. Over the knuckle is different then a hi-steer. Basically what I have is a WJ knuckle. which copnnects the knuckle togetherr, and has a seperate mounting provision for the drag link. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Pat, where'd you get you D30 alloys? Well, I guess you said call around. If I don't buy the HPD44 that I have a lead on, I might consider them, because I've already got a bunch of money in my D30 anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Randy's is where I got mine from, and that is what I think they have them advertised for. Like I said call around, sometimes a shop can get free shipping and will pass the savings onto you. Randy's requires a 1000 dollars to be spent for free shipping. so Shafts, gears, and a lockright, plus 2 install kits, and I bet you are within a stone throws of free shipping :twisted: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooter Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 Like mentioned above, you can swap 297xs, etc, from a TJ in and save a lot of money. I run 35" Bogger/36 TSLs, on my TJ for 4 years now, and I am still using the original axles and original ujoints. You don't need to upgrade the spline count on the axles to get the bigger u-joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr4x4 Posted February 27, 2006 Author Share Posted February 27, 2006 to save money I'll prob. put some alloys with the bigger u joints and get rid of the axle disconect. if I coud only get the brakes to bleed I had trouble last time but this time they just won't bleed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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