Front Rubi Dana 44

[INjake89mj]

So I bought a front Dana 44 out of a TJ off Craigslist the other day. I only gave $250 for it, not $1200 or whatever high price they are bringing on eBay. But I have a few questions I need answered before I make the decision to keep it or sell it. 

 

I know that if I were building this jeep for mainly off road purposes that I would be money ahead to build a HP30. But my jeep is going to be used mainly as a woods truck, cutting fire wood, that sort of stuff. I won't break this axle nor a stock 30. The axles that I was going to put under it are both 3.55 gears and with 32" tires I would like to run 4.10's, which the rubi axle has. I don't NEED a selectable locker, but I don't think I would ever regret having one. 

 

If I sell it and get $500 profit, that's not enough to regear both my D30 and D44. Plus the D30 needs ball joints and axle u-joints(the rubi axle is good to go)

 

If I keep it I have to buy the stock air source for locker ($160) and the switch($50), misc wiring/air line, Regear my dana 44 ($300ish), possible driveshaft modification?

 

The Rubi axle is missing knuckles, hub bearings, brakes, and stub shafts. Shouldn't I be able to use everything off of a 98 D30? Will I need to have a driveshaft made? I'm pretty sure the yoke(1330) is different than on a D30, but I haven't verified. Will it need to be longer because of low pinion? 

 

 

I know this may seem like I'm just rambling on, but I respect your guy's opinion and need help weighing out my options. Again, I know the argument about using this axle vs a HP30, but that argument on strength does not apply in this situation.

Thanks!

 

 

 

[MeanLemons]

Keep it and run it. D30 parts will swap over.

[Eagle]

Keep it. You don't need a selectable locker in the front. An option you haven't mentioned is to either leave it with no air (meaning it's an open diff -- which is the way ALL XJs and MJs came from the factory).

 

Yet another option would be to just replace the carrier with a Tru-Trac. However, that would cost more than the $210 you have projected to get air to the Rubicon diff. No other options on the air? How much pressure does it need -- could you run it with an inexpensive, 12-volt universal air compressor?

[mikekaz1]

Id keep it, even if you just leave it open and not powered

[INjake89mj]

the rubicon diff requires 5psi. The best and safest way I see to do this is with the factory pump. I thought about running an on board air setup and just regulate 5psi line to the locker, but if the regulator malfunctions or isn't accurate, It would blow the bladder in the locker. I think I would be money ahead to just run the OEM pump. 

 

I could run it open. The indicator switch screws into the side of the housing, so I would need that to keep out debris. Their is no way to use a plug of any kind by looking at the hole. 

 

The wheel bearings changed in 99 on the dana 30's. Should I run the newer stuff with this axle? I would just assume run the older more abundant parts, and I'm more familiar with them anyway. 

 

I haven't had time to look at the driveshaft situation. But I know the Dana 44 uses 1330 yoke and the 30 uses 1310 yoke? I have the drive shaft from the wrangler this was pulled from. Can a guy pull the drive shafts apart at the slip and use the wrangler axle side of DS and the comanche drivers side? That would eliminate the need for a custom shaft. Kind of worried about length too...

 

Does anybody have a TJ rubicon? I would like a picture of the air fitting. My axle is missing this. There is 2 holes on the diff housing, 1 is threaded for the sensor. the other is just 1/8th" or so hole thats where I assume the air line goes through. If this is the case is there not a breather line? I can't seem to find the info online.