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Courtesy light wiring


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 So, went and bought 2 new lights to replace the lights in the pillars behind the seats.  Now I have a problem, have 3 wire plug and only two wires on the new lights. I have not been able to get the lights to come on, door jamb switch or turning the headlight switch fully to lock counter-clockwise makes no difference.  Did I overlook something, or do I have to run new wiring (from the door switches/lights/fuse panel) or what?  

I assumed that being a 3 wire connector; one would be a ground and other two would be one each coming from the door jamb switch and the other coming from the headlight switch----not sure if my assumption is correct or not.  The plug has numbers on it for the pins 1-2-3, I wired to pins 1-2 light stays on, 2-3 light stays on, 1-3 nothing.  I ground one wire from the light to the body and other wire to pin 1 nothing, pin 2 light stays on, pin 3 nothing. No matter which way I connect the wires, I can not get them to work with either the door jamb switches nor with the headlight switch.  Short of either running new wires or putting in an on/off switch below the lights---I'm at a loss.  Have not seen a wiring schematic yet that would help me out with this. All I have seen in them is a single wire going the light assy', not the 3 that are there.

 

Many many thanks in advance for all of the help fellas :)

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From the 88 electric manual:

 

Connector 2, pink wire: power feed from fuse panel "Dome Fuse 10 amp"

 

Connector 3, black wire: direct ground.  When you rock the courtesy light either up or down, the light turns on.

 

Connector 1, black w/ white trace: provides ground through light switch when resistor is turned up/on.

 

The dome light has a ground side switch, not a power side switch.

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Thank you thank you "MJ Junkie" :)

 

Between what you told me and what my "thinker" came up with----"The Beast" now has courtesy lights, something it has not had since I bought it :)

 

The lights I bought at O'Reilly's are "Optronics" and the p/n UL-71CS ($3.99 ea.).  They fit into the stock opening and are just a bit wider and taller than the stock lights.  Took some 3/4" wide flat aluminum stock, cut four pieces 2-1/2" long, drilled a hole in the center of each piece and placed a "tinnerman" nut over each hole.  I used 1-1/4" screws to hold it all together.  The 1-1/4" screws go through the light base and into the tinnerman nut on the aluminum pieces.  The aluminum pieces act as a backer/support piece to screw to.  Crimped on some spade terminals and viola-----lights, LOL :)  Best part, no cutting on the trim panels or the wiring :)

 

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Those lights have no local switch so you can only turn them on/off by the door switch, si?

 

I used some Bosch lights out of a Porsch 911 that rock laterally similar to the crappy Renault lights they replaced so you could turn them on/off w/o the door being opened. Euramtec makes a decent 3-pole light too. Also, try swapping in some LED replacement bulbs for more light and less heat.  :thumbsup:

 

 

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Thanks for the input about the "911" lights, look really sharp---but a bit pricey for my wallet right now (trying to save up for the new floors and exhaust).  Will keep these "el-cheapos" in for a bit, when the time comes I may opt for the "Euramtec" lights though.  At least for now I have a bit of light in The Beast for once, LOL :)

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Found out what the problem was with the wiring(?).  Wasn't the wiring at all, the door jamb switch (driver's door) had wore down so much it wasn't making contact with the door, making the lights stay on.  Simple fix----drilled a small hole in the face of the plunger, put some Super Glue on a sheet metal screw and screwed it in.  Kept adjusting it until the lights went out when the door closed, lights are working great.  Going to replace the door jamb switches with a pair from a mid 60's GM car (they can be adjusted in or out too).

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