My 88 Comanche Restoration and Modification

[RustInMyEye]

Today I did those track bar things I was talking about.   Minus making the actual track bar, But that's the easy part. I need to remove the stock knuckle and put on the WJ knuckle so that I can figure out where exactly i need to drill my frame side mounting hole. I installed a clayton over the axle bracket and then my own frame side.  The pitnam arm I have in there should be staying the same, i was going to put in a durango box though, right now its just the old one that was in there. 

 

 

 

 

 

[RustInMyEye]

Forgot to update. here is how that track bar came out. 

I was pushing to get this done so I could figure out ride height a little better. 

 

 

Then I cut off the rusty bed parts. To help give me a better idea of what I'm doing with my life. anyway Something maybe tube will be going in here. 

 

 

Today I spent some time looking at bed mounts, I tried to get the bed leveled to the cab. the line looks pretty good. But the i have 2 " of blocks in the front half and 3" in the back so I'm pretty pissed the bottom of the bed its level with itself. going to make mounts harder is all.  doesnt look to bad though. 

 

 

I also dropped in the engine today. Mostly to get some weight on the front suspension, again for figureing out ride height and stuff. and also to clear out the garage. but i also need it in there so i can bolt up the transmission and make the transmission cross member. Maybe that will get some this weekend. 

 

 

 

And aside from that I'm looking for either a template or measurements of where exactly to cut the firewall for the 97+ steering shaft. I know its up and to the right(as seen from in the engine bay). Also, that its the same diameter hole. Has anyone ever made like a paper template that can be printed or anything?  The best trick i have seen is to cut a section out of a 97+ cherokee, bolt it up matching the brake booster and spray paint an outline where it needs to be cut. I don't have that luxury, my xj met the crusher 2 years ago now. But like lets say someone could go out and draw a square around it  and measure its upward and sideways movement. Basically I'm looking for the green line and blue line measurements. Measured as if there was a square held as the red lines touching the original holes other sides. 

 

[RustInMyEye]

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[RustInMyEye]

The first side is always so much easier then the second. Almost pretty 99% sure that the front mounts are in the same location front to back. But I'm not 100% about their height. The frame rails is are parallel but not necessarily the exact same. so i measure from cab points since thats the only thing that hasnt changed. Its just tacked and we will make things more certain before finish welding. 

 

Here are the shackle bracket plates. Holes for spot welds. I hate drilling holes. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I stopped at like 330 when i lost confidence that it was positioned right. 

 

[DirtyComanche]

Can you get a bar level on things and see if they're the same height that way?  If your cab is leveled, you should just be able to go across between the bolt holes.  Might have to cut some random scraps of angle iron or something and clamp them in place to set the level across, but you should be able to tell.

 

Just a thought, I'm sure you'll figure it out after you think on it a bit.

[RustInMyEye]

Can you get a bar level on things and see if they're the same height that way?  If your cab is leveled, you should just be able to go across between the bolt holes.  Might have to cut some random scraps of angle iron or something and clamp them in place to set the level across, but you should be able to tell.

 

Just a thought, I'm sure you'll figure it out after you think on it a bit.

 

Your're totally right.  I could sit the level right on the springs them self. Right against the bushing housing, there's even a little shelf on the spring main leaf.  If only it wasnt raining today

[RustInMyEye]

Where did we leave off. Oh yeah leveled it up and it seems to be where it should. However, I haven't looked at the suspension since and I want a second pair of eyes to look before I do more serious welding cause they might think of something that i don't while out working in the 90 degree sun . Then I went to the Grand Canyon so I didn't get any work done last week. I was in Arizona for the week then Charlotte, NC after a missed connection flight and then back to Ct. Can you believe its like the same temperature in all of these places?

 

 

What I have done for the last 2 days is put the transmission up and bolted it to the engine, no clutch or nothing just needed it for making the cross member. Then I started the cross member. I don't really have the metal I need for the bolt plates to attach it. But whatever maybe ill get it at lowes, maybe I'll wait untill i get back from my next vacation since my usual metal place with a Dollar per pound bargain barn moved and the barn isnt open until august. 

 

and pics  

 

The lines show were this will be cut for some more ground clearance.  and remember for proper angles and mounting, the top of my cross member needs to be level with the bottom of the frame rails. Stock manual x-members have a 1 inch drop mine is a 1.25 in drop and the frame is a little higher up itself. stock engine mounts. so here we gooooo, perfect engine angles and stuffs

 

 

 

I feel precise work isn't something that frequently comes to the home garage shop. But sometimes I do try. Shaving 16ths with the harbor freight band saw.

 

 

 

[DirtyComanche]

If you made a new mount using some sleeved bushings you could get the crossmember a little higher.  Not sure if you care though.

[RustInMyEye]

If you made a new mount using some sleeved bushings you could get the crossmember a little higher.  Not sure if you care though.

 

That certainly would be cool. but yeah right now definitely don't care about clearance. The bolt plates will allow something made up later I bet. 

[RustInMyEye]

Level on the bottom of frame rails

 

 

Level right next to the front spring bushing sitting right on the main leaf 

 

 

The leaf mounts are now welded on. I would have lifted it up and rested it on the spring perches/ axle. but i need to get some new spring center bolts so i can have the round pin side on the bottom for the sprung over set up

 

 

 

 

After my vacation I'll get this thing rolling. 

[RustInMyEye]

Back in business. 

 

The other day I spent some time making the last set of outriggers (best term i can think of) that span from the frame to the sliders.  The outer floor sections will be going underneath them, becoming a cool mini boat side affect, with nothing to possibly get hung up on while at the mall. I think I have 10 gauge steel for out there. and like 14 or 16 for other floor and cab needs.  No pictures of this but they look just like the other ones.  

 

Then since i had forgotten to order my leaf center pins before i went on vacation I ordered those, they arrived today. Will go in tomorrow.

 

 

After that since I want to get it on wheels I figured I would need some knuckles to bolt hubs too. Before I put the wj knuckles on I needed to weld on the spacers. I did the first one on Tuesday, which the pictures in this post are of and then the second one today which is still sitting in a bucket of sand. Wednesday morning i got to the steel yard and grabbed some metal and the last piece of DOM for the Drag Link. So while doing the knuckle i spent the rest of today cutting out fish plates for all the frame joints. I have one more to cut out but i ran out of cutting wheels. 

 

The process for the wj knuckle spacer welding, that I followed, is as follows. 

1. Clean weld area of the knuckles with flap wheel, grinding disk, drill grinding cone, a chisel if there is scale, sand paper, a wire wheel, and then at the end I degreased it with brake cleaner. 

2. Grind down the edges of the spacer so that you don't have excessive overhang on the edges that make it horribly difficult to get a good welding angle. (didn't do this on the ones pictured)

3. Put knuckle on a grill or in oven and pre-heat that thing to like 400 or so. Find yourself a laser temp gun to help with that.

4. Run that really hot knuckle over to the spacer sitting on a hub and drop the knuckle on  and tack it in. Then you can remove the hub, but you want it lined up right. 

5. Weld it in fully, skipping around and whatnot, normal welding stuffs. I use flux core and have an ESAB welder. It seemed to stick well. 

6. Have a compound bucket half full of play sand and when your done welding throw it in the sand and cover it up with more play sand for a nice, controlled, slow cooling period. My temp gun had the sand over the knuckle at like 200 a few hours later.  Given its been 100 degrees out already

 

Here are those pictures everyone likes until you post to many like I do. 

 

Grilled knuckle

 

Weld Knuckle

 

 

ESAB, Brother bought it for his buggy build that he intends to start at some point in the future. 

 

 

A school of fish...plates

 

And here are my steering dom ready to be steeringafied in the next few days.

 

 

Game plan is on its old wheels and tires by the end of the weekend.  If i don't die of heat stroke and the thunderstorms stay away.

[RustInMyEye]

Heat index of 110 today. No welding or grinding was done.

 

What I did do was change the center pins on the leafs. I bought the wrong ones. I got 5/16th ones cause that's cherokee spec, they are 3/8. I thought i had measured wrong when I saw 3/8th. silly me, I was right.  But I noticed after cutting off the old ones.  I put them on anyway so i could see the ride height. So i bolted the axles to the springs and even put the tires on. ROLLER STATUS IMMINENT!!!!!!!!!  Then I readjusted the shackles, moved them back a hole, much better angle. (whatta pain though)  Anyway from there I could get a good feel at ride height. I'm 6' 2" and on those stocker 225 tires or whatever they are the top of the bed rail is at my nipples (no they don't sag...much)  

 

Then I changed the front ball joints out and slapped on the wj knuckles. Can I say that I'm supper excited to actually though a new part at this thing. Besides the suspension joints and track bar hiems its been all fab work. Ball joints were cake, and if it didnt start to rain right then I could have had the hubs and shafts in and the tires on the front.   Have to save some work for tomorrow i suppose.  :laughin:

 

Anyway its sitting on all its suspension. so this is basically ride height. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RustInMyEye]

Cut and welded up the tie rod today. I was really wanting this to allow me to put it on its old wheels and tires like in the back but the offset tie rod ends are interfering. So until i get the new tires mounted which I didn't really want to do yet, it will not be a roller. 

 

I did an alignment with wooden yard sticks taped to the knuckles before making the tie rod. Then I put the TRE's in the knuckles with the weld bungs positioned a little over the half way threaded on.  Then i measured for the tube length.

 

 

 

 

Then I started making the floors This turned out pretty good. Cut rough shapes and then trimmed them up to fit nicely. Will still need a little tweaking.

 

I put the waxy side down so that it will withstand the rain and snow 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DirtyComanche]

I've dealt with those offset TREs before and the conclusion I've came to is I'd rather bend the tie rod than use them again...  I'm guessing you need them in order to be able to install the drag link end in the WJ knuckle though?

[RustInMyEye]

I've dealt with those offset TREs before and the conclusion I've came to is I'd rather bend the tie rod than use them again...  I'm guessing you need them in order to be able to install the drag link end in the WJ knuckle though?

 

Not particular to the WJ knuckle, I don't think.  For the over knuckle steering setup I needed them to clear the diff cover and coil buckets.  I think if i had gone under knuckle i would have been fine with normal ones.   

 

What didn't you like about them? I wasn't too fond on them since they can't be replaced at any normal parts store.  In the future ill bend the tierod, when i find someone with 1/4 wall bending capabilities.

[DirtyComanche]

They're kinda cheap junk. And it's downright surprising how many wheels won't clear them. And like you said, there is no parts store equivalent.

 

If you're putting many miles on I would buy a spare set to have on hand.

[RustInMyEye]

Change of plans for the transmission crossmember. This one looks sleeker and was much easier to make work.

 

It looks low but really its not much lower then anything stock and at this height the transfer case skid can come off the back of it. 

 

 

Hot and sunny

 

The tube that drops down will get some gussets to keep it strong against any front to back loads of the offroad varriety.

 

If a piece of slag didn't plug up my welder tip nearing the end of the day this would be fully functional but the actual bolt plate isn't welded to the crossing tube. That plate will be getting a nice rib down the middle of it, between the bolts to strengthen it up

 

I left more meat on the bottom of the  crossmember mating plates for clearance fort the exhaust on the passanger side and driveshaft on the drivers.  

 

Now that this is done I can get those stupid ratchet straps which where supporting the transmission out from under there and begin putting the floors in. I also want to start with the necessary dash mods for the 97+ but not until the floors are in. 

[Rockfrog]

I've dealt with those offset TREs before and the conclusion I've came to is I'd rather bend the tie rod than use them again... I'm guessing you need them in order to be able to install the drag link end in the WJ knuckle though?

This, I went with bends at either end to clear and then used off the shelf TRE's. Added a Synergy Double Adjuster on the drivers side to make adjustments hassle free.

I also had the same deal done with the drag link (bent to clear and a double adjuster was used) when we ran into clearance issues with everything over the axle.

 

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[Jeeper4life]

Dang looks like you have put some work into it! Looks good

 

 

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[RustInMyEye]

Dang looks like you have put some work into it! Looks good

 

 

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Yeah lol just a little 

[RustInMyEye]

 

I've dealt with those offset TREs before and the conclusion I've came to is I'd rather bend the tie rod than use them again... I'm guessing you need them in order to be able to install the drag link end in the WJ knuckle though?

This, I went with bends at either end to clear and then used off the shelf TRE's. Added a Synergy Double Adjuster on the drivers side to make adjustments hassle free.

I also had the same deal done with the drag link (bent to clear and a double adjuster was used) when we ran into clearance issues with everything over the axle.

 

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When they fail the tube with get bent. Trouble will be finding someone to bend 1.5" .25 wall. I would assume there arn't many people with the bender or die suited for that. 

[RustInMyEye]

Update.  Ive done some floor stuff over the past two weekends and Its huntin season, so really only sundays are spent on the jeep and I'm also in grad school so tomorrow i need to paint a picture that conveys an event in my life that changed me. So I don't know what ill get done tomorrow.  But, here's what last sunday and today brought me. (sadly no deer)

 

 

Drivers side outer floors.

 

And then i did the passenger side inner floor today. 

 

Before

 

After. All one piece. The divers will be separate I think

[Rockfrog]

 

When they fail the tube with get bent. Trouble will be finding someone to bend 1.5" .25 wall. I would assume there arn't many people with the bender or die suited for that.

Huh? They are huge, ain't Bending these anytime soon. Anil if I do, and the axle is somehow in one piece, the guy that made my current set will make me a new set. He lives right down the road after all.

But, trust me when I say, my steering is the last thing on my mind these days. Had to go buy a 1 5/16" and a 1 1/4" wrench just to adjust it all. The TRE taper shaft nuts are thicker than the stock linkage.

 

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[RustInMyEye]

 

When they fail the tube with get bent. Trouble will be finding someone to bend 1.5" .25 wall. I would assume there arn't many people with the bender or die suited for that.

Huh? They are huge, ain't Bending these anytime soon. Anil if I do, and the axle is somehow in one piece, the guy that made my current set will make me a new set. He lives right down the road after all.

But, trust me when I say, my steering is the last thing on my mind these days. Had to go buy a 1 5/16" and a 1 1/4" wrench just to adjust it all. The TRE taper shaft nuts are thicker than the stock linkage.

 

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When my offset TRE's fails, My tie rod tube will get bent. So that i can use regular off the shelf TRE's. Sorry for the confusion.  

 

Edit:

Ive wheeled pretty hard in my old, now destroyed, cherokee with spooled d44's. Ive seen plenty a bent 1.5" .25 wall steering and broke TRE's . But thats besides the point. \

 

i.e I have those wrenches, and ive had them for years. I know how big everything is. 

[Rockfrog]

Ah, now I see, kind of took me off guard there.

 

Stellar work by the way.

 

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