My so called "Bolt-in" Ax15 Swap Journal (long)

[Bonkers]

I write this as a cautionary guide to anyone looking to do this swap – nothing

goes as planned.

 

First I want to thank everyone who assisted me on this little ride on the

drama train. Despite the end result and my current frustration I don’t want to

come off unappreciative. I am really grateful for the help of so many people

on four different forums – I couldn’t have gotten to this point without you. I

want to especially thank my good friend Nick who spent several of his valuable

nights getting covered in oil and rust on my behalf.

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

For years I’ve hear on here (and the yahoo group, and the jeepforum, and my

local group DelawareJA) that the Ba10 to Ax15 is an easy, almost “bolt-in”

swap that is considered an improvement on almost all levels. I was sold… truth

be known, maybe I still am, but this swap was anything but simple and quick.

 

Quick rundown of events:

- Bought 1998 XJ Ax15/NP231 and front D30 $500.00

- LuK Flywheel LFW193 - $74.96

- LuK Clutch Kit 05-901 - $198.93

- Luk Slave Cylinder LSC309 - $40.51

- Advanced Adapter Clutch Pilot Bushing 716164 - $27.42

 

Started the teardown. Realized the previous owner did a lot of custom wiring

and backyard fixes. Took Longer than I expected. Eventually the old Ba10 was

out of the truck and sitting in the driveway. After numerous attempts the old

clutch pilot bearing would not come out. I tried the “paper towel trick” the

“grease trick” and the “bolt trick.” Ended up having to purchase a dedicated

bearing puller that ended up being too big for the bearing and too small for

the puller. Needed to “rent” a puller from Autozone and grind down my new

tool. After three hours of beating the hell out of it, the bearing eventually

sheared apart and was able to be removed.

 

- OTC Bearing Puller 4421 - $18.96

 

Once the bearing was out I began the long process of cleaning EVERYTHING and

beginning the install process. First thing I discovered was the supposed ’74

304 bushing I was sent wasn’t even close to fitting… by inches… Build stopped

awaiting new bushing.

 

- Omix-Ada Clutch Pilot Bushing 16910.04 - $2.98

 

While researching bushing I come across knowledge that I cannot use the Ax15

flywheel on the new setup.

 

- Luk Flywheel LFW194 - $58.54

 

Installed Bushing, Flywheel, and clutch with no issue. Installed the

transmission. The included Xj crossmember had a TC skid attached that required

grinding off. I matched up the “Ax15” crossmember mounting holes and it

appeared they have never been threaded. No problem.

 

- Irwin M10x1.5 Thread Tap - $8.95.

 

Tapped all but one mounting hole before tap broke. Went back to the store for

another tap – sold out.

 

- Irwin M10x1.25 Thread Tap - $8.95

 

Once threaded I discovered the old studs from the Ba10 needed to be cut off

for the new crossmember to fit. First unplanned modification. Cut the studs.

The crossmember does not fit. Another entire night spent forcing it into place

until finally it clicks. All bolts, CPS, and starter installed. Take the jack

stand out and the transmission is officially in.

 

Now for the slave cylinder. The old slave has a stud and bolt combo, but the

98 Xj master does not. Take the Dremel to the stud. Second unplanned

modification. Once I clean up the firewall I run the slave cylinder down

through the motor and start lining everything up. The 98 Xj master cylinder

does not fit between the brake booster and fuse box. More research shows I now

need a 1995 Xj master cylinder.

 

- Sachs SPH011 Clutch Master/Slave Assembly - $122.95

 

New Master is setup for old firewall. Forced to now drill out old stud and

replace with bolt.

 

- Grade 8 Bolt and Nut - $2.25

 

Finally install new Clutch Master cylinder and move inside. The new master

cylinder push rod does not fit pedal assembly. Ended up having to drill out

the plunger loop which is now uncomfortably thin in my opinion.

 

- Dewalt ½ Drill Bit - $4.95

 

Move underneath the truck. Install the slave cylinder without incident. Go to

install the 1998 clutch shift linkage. Does not fit, not even close.

Inspection reveals I do not need a transfer case shift linkage, but the

bracket that mounts to the inner transmission tunnel. The part that fits to

the floorpan. The old 98 has long been scrapped at this point so I ended up

doing some more shopping. Needed to buy another complete shift linkage from

another junkyard.

 

- OEM Shift Linkage with correct Bracket - $50

 

Go to install bracket and the floor under t paint is completely gone. Unable

to install. After some research I discovered a vender who makes a linkage that

does not install to the body work.

 

- Boostwerks Engineering 1023-2 Shift Linkage - $45.98

 

Boostwerks shift linkage bolts on with no issues at all. Time for the drive

shafts. 2 of the five U-joints have deteriorated beyond use. Decide to replace

all.

 

- (5x) Spicer 5153X U-Joint Kit - $65.40

 

Front driveshaft goes in without issue, but rear driveshaft is now way too

long to install. After review, with no good explanation as to why, finally

decide to just cut shaft.Third unplanned Modfication.

 

- Driveshaft Shortened 2.25in by Accubilt Salisbury - $92.50

 

Rear driveshaft installed, but concerns that it may still be too long for

permanent use. Go to start motor and truck does not run. Pull old CPS and

install new Autozone one.

 

- Duralast Crank Position Sensor SU3228 - $30.99

 

Truck doesn’t start. With no spark the only other option is the CmPS.

 

- Standard Motor Products LX234 Ignition Pick Up - $6.95

 

Truck doesn’t start. Purchase a quality (read: not from AutoZone) CPS from a

reliable source.

 

- Airtex 5S1799 Crankshaft Position Sensor - $38.99

 

Truck doesn’t start. Exhaustive diagnostic points to a bad CPS. Go to second

Mj (Scarlet,) verify it starts and runs as it should. Pull Scarlets CPS,

install it on Gracie. Gracie does not start. Install new Airtex on Scarlet,

starts right up. In a Hail-Mary attempt I drill out the 5/16 upper hole on the

original CPS to 3/8 and re-install. Truck starts, runs rough.

 

Still need reverse lights and a shift knob, but neither are critical.

 

Change drive train fluids, engine, transmission, and transfer case.

 

On the 99th day of a 3 day transmission swap the truck is ready to run. I

close up everything, take her for a couple of neighborhood runs and everything

feels tight and ready. Take her out on the highway – transmission develops a

VERY loud tick of metal on metal. It has no reliable 3rd gear and the syncro

is completely gone in reverse requiring it to be ground into gear to back up.

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

So 380 total days and $1,401.16 later I am right back where I started. Driving

a jeep whose transmission is going to leave me on the side of the road sooner

than later…

[87MJTIM]

I'm sorry to hear about all your troubles.  I just did the swap and did not have that many issues.

 

"Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, what did you think of the play?"

[Megadan]

My AX-15 swap went smoothly and was more or less "bolt-in", the only two hang ups I had were trying to get the correct trans mount and a slight kerfuffle with the shift linkage that I solved by combining the linkage from my truck and the donor vehicle.  I will admit I did a bunch of research and had everything together before I started.  It took me 10 hours to do the entire swap start to finish with a buddies help and lots of beer breaks.

[Knucklehead97]

I went through nearly the same thing as you a couple months ago. My Jeeps been in the yard awaiting another AX-15 since. Except my loss was only 100$... it was an absolute b**** getting the crossmember to line up.