2" lift install questions

[teamsmith]

So I spent more hours than I care to admit this past weekend wrestling with a 2" lift. So far I have one side more or less installed (I still need to do some more cutting on the WJ LCA) but I'm not seeing the lift I expected. I'm using Moog cc784 which is reported to be the ZJ V8 Upcountry springs and which is supposed to give 2" of lift over stock--- I read it on the internet so it must be true. ;)  However, with one side installed, it's only about 1" higher than it was with the old springs and the shock is not extended as it should be- it should have 4.5" of rod sticking out but only has about 3.9", telling me I'm about 3/4" low. Also, at full droop I'm only able to get 21" between the top of the shock bucket and the hole where the shock stud goes through but my shock is 23". 

Quesion:

With only one side installed, will I see the truck rise up once I install the otherside and then the rear? Is the lower 3 corners holding the one with taller spring down? 

Same question as above but for the shock, will I get a longer 'full droop' on this side once the other side's lift is installed? 

Should I stack the new spring insulator on top of the old to give me about another 3/4"? If I'm really going to get 2" of lift I don't want to go any higher but I'd also rather not pull it all back apart if it turns out I'm going to come up short. Wrestling with the spring compressor has been such a pain to deal with, all while fearing for my life, that I would rather not install, uninstall, reinstall, repeat. 

[Eagle]

I don't know about the MOOG springs, but the ZJ V8 front coils are the same Jeep part number as the XJ Up Country coils, and they provide one inch of lift, not two. Since you have invested in the springs, my suggestion if you really can't live with a one-inch lift is to buy a pair of 3/4" coil spacers and call it good.

[teamsmith]

Eagle, apparently what I have purchased is the ZJ upcountry springs which is supposed to give 2". Apparently the regular ZJ springs give are the same as the XJ upcountry and the ZJ up country springs give an inch more than the regular xj

upcountry. Of course I've only read this about XJs, but assume its the same for MJs. I have my old isolators which are about 3/4" thick uncompressed

 

 

Edit: Upon further review; I see that I stand corrected. Apparently these springs will give 2" lift on a 2WD model MJ, but only 1" lift on a 4WD. I guess I'll throw the old insulators up in there and be happy with about 1.5" lift. 

[teamsmith]

I got the other side in tonight. My hub center to bottom of flare measures 19 5/8 on both sides, which is just over 2 inches over the reported 17.5 stock height. It makes it level with the stock rear which I like. My nagging concern is that I put in shocks that are about an inch too tall. They have 9 inches of travel but only have 3 7/8 of clean rod sticking out at rest, leaving me with 5 inches of down travel.

 

I took it for a short ride over a bumpy road and the ride is so much smoother, the truck doesn't jump all over the road in response to the bumps. I do get a sense that the steering is a little more vague than before. Once i get the other wj lca installed i will take it in for an alignment. Also ill probably need an adjustable track bar.

[teamsmith]

How do I know if I need a new trackbar? I seems that my axle is still fairly well centered under the truck: 

 

 

[gogmorgo]

I wouldn't worry about the track bar. Imagine a 4' long bar on the ground. Mark the ground at both ends, pick one end up two inches, and mark the ground straight under the end. The difference in length is how far over your axle shifted. In the case of the 4' bar, doing some quick math, that's about 5/128". That's not an exact track bar length so not your exact axle shift but it's close enough and the example still applies.

Don't worry about the track bar unless you plan on getting bigger.

[Crash]

You are probably okay. But, sidewall to fender measurement on both sides should give you the amount you are off "track"

If your "stock" trackbar is new/new-ish. You can drill a hole in your axle side track bar mount about 3/4" over to "Center" the axle. 

If the trackbar needs/should be replaced. Pick up the adjustable IRO double shear trackbar/mount, about 200$ shipped. And you should be good there. 

 

For extra clearance/travel, you can trim the top of the axle side LCA bracket. On the flip side, I would flex/stuff the tires on each side and see how much shock shaft is left. Should be ~.25", more is okay. But bottoming out shocks is bad. SImple bumpstop solution, hockey puck(s) pending how much gap you need to fill. RTV'd to your coil buckets. 

[teamsmith]

You are probably okay. But, sidewall to fender measurement on both sides should give you the amount you are off "track"

If your "stock" trackbar is new/new-ish. You can drill a hole in your axle side track bar mount about 3/4" over to "Center" the axle. 

If the trackbar needs/should be replaced. Pick up the adjustable IRO double shear trackbar/mount, about 200$ shipped. And you should be good there. 

 

For extra clearance/travel, you can trim the top of the axle side LCA bracket. On the flip side, I would flex/stuff the tires on each side and see how much shock shaft is left. Should be ~.25", more is okay. But bottoming out shocks is bad. SImple bumpstop solution, hockey puck(s) pending how much gap you need to fill. RTV'd to your coil buckets. 

thanks for the tips. I'm halfway through installing WJ LCAs (installed on passengers side) and my LCA bracket and shock mount has become well acquainted to my sawzall. I'll get the drivers side installed soon. 

 

I'll also do the flex test to make sure I have enough exposed shaft in my shock. After reading more about it, I feel better about having more down travel than up. Previously I had assumed I wanted it to be in the middle of the stroke at rest. Also this gives me more room if I decide to go a little higher up front. 

 

Thanks again