teamsmith Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Hello, I found a post from about 8 years that says the LCA bolts are 14x2.0x110mm. Is this the same for both sides (frame and axle)? Is there clearance for them to be little longer if need be? Will I need nuts as well or do they tread into the ear/flange? I'm doing the WJ LCA swap this weekend and am trying to plan ahead. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 You will need two M14x2.00x110 (p/n 34201334) and two M14x2.00 nuts (p/n 52001162AB) for each WJ LCA. There's about at least an inch clearance on each side if you need to go with longer bolts if necessary. There are several threads detailing the shortening of the WJ bushing sleeves (I left mine ~1/4" sticking out past the rubber bushings) and the trimming of the outer arm frames to allow full droop. I installed my WJ arms backwards (The oblong bushing on the frame side) so there was no trimming necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 Thanks, Don. I assume you have experienced no ill effects from having yours backward (or else you would have swapped them around)? I am all for not needing to trim, etc. so I guess I'll follow your lead and plan to put them on backward as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 No ill effects at all. After getting them mounted, It was immediately apparent how much more solid they felt and how it handled on turns. It's also a great time to check out your caster with an angle finder over the upper ball joint flat and remove / add shims behind each LCA to get the caster as close to +7.5* as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 When you say shims behind the LCA, do you mean as a spacer between the bushing and the mounting flange that it bolts to? I have a Chiltons that I plan to consult but I have not yet dug into the process of setting caster or camber. I had hoped I could just slap it all together with fresh ball joints and drive to a garage and get an alignment which would address such things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 This thread HERE explains it all. The alignment shop will check caster, but whether they adjust it or not depends if they have the shims in stock or not. The shims fit between the LCA and the frame and the amount of shims sets the caster angle. I don't trust alignment shops at all and set caster myself before going to them as described in the link. You should have shims behind your LCAs now, so when you swap the new WJ ones in, be sure to swap the shims over too as they came out. If your caster angle was okay it will stay that way as the WJ LCAs are the same length as the stock LCAs. Also get an angle finder and check the angle to be sure. Easy to do and you'll have peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 So whats the trick to getting the lca holes lined up? Everything is on jack stands but it seems like the axle maybe rolled back, possibly when I turned the wheel when installing the springs. I've only got one side unhooked. It's acting like the lca is too long and won't clear the mounting brackets without rubbing, but I'm hoping that's all just because the caster is rolled back. Speaking of caster, I saw those shims you were talking about but I didn't have to remove them, they seemed to be bolted in so I left them alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I like to use heavy duty ratchet straps to pull the axle in place, or use the stock Jeep bottle jack against the frame to push the the axle in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 The shims are still bolted between the frame LCA bucket and the clevis as shown. Be sure to check your caster after you get the LCAs installed. A BF-pipe wrench might help roll the axle into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Thanks. I just picked up a big pipe wrench. I tried to use a bottle jack (I have two) but they don't seem to work sideways, maybe they're low on fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 The pipe wrench isn't moving it at all, just putting a big gouge in the axle tube. I'm gonna go hunt for some kind of internal expander type deal and see if I can get it to shift, I only need about 1/8" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Thanks. I just picked up a big pipe wrench. I tried to use a bottle jack (I have two) but they don't seem to work sideways, maybe they're low on fluid.That is why I use the Jeep's mechanical bottle jack. Works upright, sideways and even upside down :) It is also helpful if all of the control arm bolts are loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Thanks. I just picked up a big pipe wrench. I tried to use a bottle jack (I have two) but they don't seem to work sideways, maybe they're low on fluid.That is why I use the Jeep's mechanical bottle jack. Works upright, sideways and even upside down :) It is also helpful if all of the control arm bolts are loose. When I get back out ill look for a mechanical jack or similar. Are you saying I should loosen the uca on the side I'm working or the driver side control arms as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I normally have the frame on jack stands, springs removed, the upper controls bolted in lightly, and then I use a floor to raise and lower the axle until the lower control arms find a nice spot that lets the bolts go through. If the springs are in it will make everything much harder since they will forcefully rotate the axle some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Well I finally got it wrestled in there using a mechanical jack. Unfortunately, the control arms hit the top of the axle bucket, even on level ground. The lcas are new moog models and have a welded seam along the top that sticks up a good bit. Maybe the OEM models don't have this seam? I'm not sure what I'm gonna do but its not driveable as is. Also the springs I put in (zj v8 upcountry model) only raised the side by about an inch vs the other side. I had read on naxja that these should give a full 2" over stock which what I based my shock selection on. As it is there's only about 4 inches sticking out of the cylinder for up travel. I may now bite the bullet and swap for ome as so many have said all along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 So I read more closely the many threads that spell out how I need to trim the bracket on the axle and the back of the lca itself. The fact that I beat everything in with rams and hammers may explain why I'm not seeing the lift I expected, the linkage is bottoming out on the arm. Question: With everything back together, what do you think about me pulling the lca with the tire still on the ground (assuming I have room to maneuver the bolts)? Wouldn't this keep the axle to frame alignment in check for easier reinstall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 That's how I installed the WJ LCAs on mine. On the ground, nothing jacked up, one side at a time snugged up, then run around the block and torque everything down. Had to use a pry bar on the 2nd LCA, but just easily to get the last bolt in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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