DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 If you broke a pane I believe it's toast... I tried to get one repaired years ago and you couldn't get the pieces, and apparently they aren't meant to be taken apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 If you broke a pane I believe it's toast... I tried to get one repaired years ago and you couldn't get the pieces, and apparently they aren't meant to be taken apart.. Of course, the one time I come into a sliding window Anyways I worked in the rain for a while today, got the harness hooked up to the motor, mounted the alternator and power steering, mounted tranny and tcase. Then called it a night because I was soaked and didn't feel like staying out there longer. I checked to see if my driveshaft will fit and unfortunately my tom woods heavy duty driveshaft is too long, I'll have to get it shortened, and my front driveshaft is too short, looks like I'll be ordering from Tom again. Was really hoping they would fit but I knew they wouldn't. Tomorrow I'll probably work on the rest of the dash and interior panels that I want to swap since it's going to rain again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Can anybody tell me what this is? I broke it removing the plug to it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeppapa Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Can anybody tell me what this is? I broke it removing the plug to it Those rear windows can be tough. First one I did took about 4 hour but it came out with no breakage. At times the puck factor pegged at about an 8 The butyl gets rock hard. Sharp cutting tools and if your pushing or pulling and you instinct tells you to stop listen to it. Step back rethink the approach and take a break. Taking your time can save you allot of time and money trying to replace it. I have to do 2 more on a truck I just got (broken)and putting in a slider on my keeper truck. Hope you get more responses because I'd love to find a better way. Best of luck to you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Can anybody tell me what this is? I broke it removing the plug to it Knock sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Can anybody tell me what this is? I broke it removing the plug to it Knock sensor. Thanks, I was told by a few people that they're not important, my question is why would they not be important? I'll be replacing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Can anybody tell me what this is? I broke it removing the plug to it Knock sensor. Thanks, I was told by a few people that they're not important, my question is why would they not be important? I'll be replacing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It's important. It will run without it, hence some people feel they are not important. However if you wind up in a situation where there is detonation then damage may occur to the engine as the ECU will have no idea and not cut timing. They did delete it on the HO system because Chrysler does stupid things. I don't know if they run slightly less aggressive timing or not with the HO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 Moving along with progress slowly but it's getting there, still a handful of things left to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 9, 2017 Author Share Posted June 9, 2017 Alright guys everything for the truck is hooked up, I have power to my starter and alternator. But no lights, dash, nothing, turn key and nothing happens at all. Any ideas where to look? Update: I checked and didn't have power to anything behind the firewall, so I started unbolting the main harness that goes into the fuse box and I think the bolt is stripped now... Anyone have a tip on how I remove it now? Feeling like I may have really messed up now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 You definitely have the right sized socket on that bolt? It's an awkward thing to get the angle right, and I want to say it's a 5mm socket. I'd have checked the fusible links off the ignition relay first, or that the big wire to said relay is hooked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 Mine was 1/4" on that bolt .... And yeah it's a pain to get the angle right. I have to go through my fuse box periodically as a little corrosion shuts down whole circuits. And those old AMC boxes like to corrode. Had more than a few times where I lost dash, turn signals, Wipers or some other equally important items, to have the fix be a simple pull fuse, clean blades and reinsert. FYI - that knock sensor isn't broken, just the plastic cover is, if you can get it back on it's all good. Best Is to replace it, but mine has had the plastic body held on by tape for about a year now. They still make the replacement part though, but it a slightly different style. Maybe I'm just too damn cheap to admit I should replace mine. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 You definitely have the right sized socket on that bolt? It's an awkward thing to get the angle right, and I want to say it's a 5mm socket. I'd have checked the fusible links off the ignition relay first, or that the big wire to said relay is hooked up. I've definitely got the right size, it's 1/4" and it's definitely a pain to get the right angle on. I checked for power at all of the fusible links and had power. Power stopped and that wire you're talking about is hooked up as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 Well I figured out the plug was not in all the way, but the bolt is, bolt is now stripped due to me not paying enough attention while trying to remove it. So now I've got a bolt holding the connector in and the plug not in all the way because it pushed right over the bottom lip of the fuse box part. I'm going to try and get a back me out in there to bring the bolt out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rjcinelli Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 So I figured out why the plug wasn't in right, top connector has different pins in the 4.0 plug compared to the 2.5. I plan to splice the 4.0 harness into the 2.5 plug so I can just plug it into the fuse block. Lower plug is the same between the two. Does anybody have a good diagram of 88 4.0 or 89 2.5? I noticed there is a yellow wire on the 4.0 that does not match up with anything on the 2.5 plug and on the 2.5 plug there is a red wire not going to one on the 4.0 maybe they are both the hot wire and just a different color? Time for some research Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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