Knucklehead97 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I found the back of my fuse block had some fluid on it. So did some fuses. So I immediately think the clutch MC is leaking. Here is an image of the inside of the MC and yes, my finger was clean before I stuck it in the fluid. If I have to change the MC, how hard is it? And will I have to bleed the entire system? It's got an internal slave so I hope this doesn't end in me taking out the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 The MC is not hard to change. once the line is off it is just a pin and 2 bolts to get out. My guess for the reason the fluid is black is the hose connecting the master to the slave is original and is rotting out.....it should be replaced. and yes you will have to bleed it. In this case bleed it until your fluid runs clear......then bleed it some more.... . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 I've heard a lot about aftermarket MC's being crap... any reccomendations that won't break the bank? And where can I get a new MC to slave line? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjblue Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Sub'd. I too would like to know who makes a good clutch master cylinder, and that line to the slave. For 87-90 (if they're different from the external slave transmissions) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 And what about rebuilding the MC? Possibly a better option? And lastly can I just add fluid to it for now and not let it run dry? Just until I get the truck running good and can.worry about the MC and fuse box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepsOLot Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 You really don't want the fluid to keep running onto the fuse box, brake fluid and plastic generally don't mix. I would change the master or rebuild it. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Here ia a bit of info on how to rebuild... http://comancheclub.com/topic/41742-clutch-master-rebuild-mod/ But from your description it would be the seals #16 and #15 in the pic that are gone.....I have never fount a source for those that would make rebuilding worth while Like I say in the post if you can get a NABCO.....that would be a good one As for the line....the external will be a one piece that is all changed at the same time....internal....on 2 of mine right now I am using a rear break line for the clutch line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Braided line and adapters from AA......cost about $40 total. Mine was an external slave, but with a couple fittings you could adapt it to the internal line. They make 2 different sizes, I opted for the longer one and had to loop it before the transmission: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Hmm... I think I'll just spend the money on a new MC instead of rebuilding. But I can't find a place that sells Nabco... anyone know if Luk makes a good MC? i know their clutches are good but never heard anything about the MC's. And on an internal what type of fittings are used to attached the hydraulic line? I would love to go ahead and upgrade to the braided line but don't know much about fittings or flares or any of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjblue Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 I'm in the same boat, putting this repair off for a while now... I found this LUK MC: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/luk-automotive-systems-master-cylinder-lmc205/10649087-P?searchTerm=clutch+master+cylinder Is it good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 I believe thats the same Luk that I was looking at on Rockauto. Also is the rear brakelines fittings the same thread and everything as the clutch line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjblue Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Any update on this? Does anybody have part #'s for a braided line and the fittings to go with? (I'm also working with an internal slave here) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 From what I can tell the fitting ends are male 7/16 24, thats according to Sdvance Autos specifications for the aftermarket replacement. And it does look like they use a flared end to seal up completely. Not sure how to seal them up correctly using braided hose and fittings. I can't find a hydraulic shop around here so I'm trying to decide whether I want to chance a aftermarket stock replacement, or find another option. Looks like I will be going with a Luk MC unless someone tells me a better brand. It would be fantastic if I could just take some steel brake line and bend it to work but I know it would be unreliable due to the movement of the engine while the MC is stationary on the firewall... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjblue Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 I see the Wearever hydraulic hose you're talking about, I might just go with that to make it easier, plug n play. That LUK MC is going for $32 shipped on eBay btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjblue Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Yep, I've made my decision on the hydraulic line (unless somebody can convince me otherwise) and go with the direct replacement, it just seems easier. It has all the right fittings, has the hard steel lines with soft line in-between to allow for movement, and the turn it makes heading back to the slave cylinder, with high pressure crimped connections. It's a direct replacement for the Peugeot internal slave. It's Dorman H38935 if anyone's wondering and reading this later for reference. Cheapest I found was $21 shipped on eBay (new). NAPA has some good pictures and info: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Clutch-Hose/_/R-UBK38935_0480684306 I would like to do the braided stainless steel option that mjeff87 suggested, but I can't argue with the price and ease of this one. That, and the AX-15 swap I plan to do when my ba 10/5 dies, so don't really want to put too much money into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 I'll end up doing the same most likely. Let me know how yours turns out, won't be swapping mine for awhile due to dealing with engine problems lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 I ordered both of those parts off Ebay. I appreciate you telling me they were on ebay for cheaper. I was about to spend $70 on Rockauto for them instead of the 57$ I spent on Ebay. Of course I checked and the warranty from manufacturer still is valid on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 So I have confirmed that two fuses are destroyed in my fuse block thanks to this. It doesnt look like the block itself is in bad condition though. Is there any way I can clean the block to get the fluid off of it before it does some big damage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 CRC electrical contact cleaner, with a drip pan underneath the block. Spray the bejesus out of it. It is safe on plastics: http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=03070 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Well the fuse box is covered with fluid now... quick tip, that Dorman line SUCKS. Went to bleed the line and it starts squirting fluid out the MC flare nut! I guess I'm just going to throw the original line back on even though its destroyed and work on finding a place to make me a steel braided line. Sadly can't get my money back on that line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Changed the line back to the original. I can start the truck in gear and it seems to release correctly. Only thing is I can hear a small whirring from the tranny tunnel whenever I have the clutch pedal pushed in. Even when it is not in gear. Now I don't know if this sound was there before, because I simply wasnt listening for a difference in noise before. Should I be worried about this noise? I'm worried that it is the clutch not fully disengaging but I'm not sure because it starts and doesnt move a bit when in gear with the pedal pressed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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