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Quick help needed: clutch issue (ba10)

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1988 Mj with Ba10

I feel like I am missing something obvious here (like usual)

When I push the pedal in first time I have zero clutch.
Second time I do but its REALLY low. Whenever the
pedal reaches the top of swing I lose all clutch - however,
if I keep my foot on the pedal (lightest pressure you can
imagine) the clutch engages every time I step down. At
first I was thinking the dreaded slave cylinder failure, but
now I am not quite sure. Is it possible its an
adjustment/pedal/mechanical issue, or should I just start
shopping for the Ax15 now?


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Its the dreaded slave cyclinder. When the peddle acts funny it always turned out to be the slave. Seems like they are more prone to fail if you slip the clutch for some reason. Been through 3 over the years and finaly upgraded to AX15's with external slave.

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Check the line from master, mine had a big crack in it at the rubber part where it angles by the exhaust manifold and was leaking bad after i had just replace my master and was getting ready to drop the tranny because i was still losing fluid. The line seems to sit really close to the manifold so after installing the new line I put some heat wrap type material around it that attached together like velcro

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It is your master,,,,


If you look at the diagram below...the reason you have to double pump or hold your foot on to get clutch is that the small rubber cup #9 is not seating and sealing properly.



Easy test is take off the cover of the master and have someone push down on the clutch for a full stroke.....does the fluid rise or do you get bubbles?


Read this if you have time....since you have to take it out anyway ,,,,,,if you have an hour and a bit of mech skill you could save yourself some $$



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Okay... I finally got around to re-springing the MC as

stated in the link above. I was a "new" MC and the

retainer spring inside was pathetic - however, when I

pushed the plunger the unit would send out a "super-

soaker" like blast of fluid across my driveway. After

replacing the spring it was considerably less. After

re-installing the MC and numerious bleeding attempts

(gravity and pump) where I had a reliable, ableit

annoying clutch, I now have zero pedal feel and no

ability to shift at all...


The only difference now is that if I pump the pedal the

clutch resevoir cap pops of...


(FYI - the article above was VERY well done. The task

took 1.5hrs total and I was sure it was going to work.

My appreciation to the author!)

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If the cap is popping off that means you are not getting a seal from the stem tip seal #9 in the pic.



The way a master works is when the spring pushes the piston back (no pressure on the clutch) fluid is drawn in to the cylinder barrel from the reservoir by way of a small hole at the front of the "barrel" of the master. If you have it apart you can see a small 3/32(?) hole at the end.




As you put your foot down it pushes the plunger forward causing valve stem assembly to move forward and the stem tip seal to block off the hole from the master to the reservoir.....once the hole is blocked the fluid has no choice but to exit out the top hole (that is the line that leads to the slave) and activate the slave.




Since you are blowing the cap off the reservoir somehow your stem tip seal is not in place or damaged and the fluid is just taking the path of least resistance back into the reservoir.

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I would like to help but am confused by the parts labeled "A" and "B" in your description.


Just to be clear.....the original configuration the small retainer spring when assembled is in the spring retainer cup......so it would be on the right hand side as the drawing shows....spring touching the right face of the cup as the picture shows......


My mod moves the spring to the other side of the cup.....it would end up inside #13 (plunger spring) to the left of the cup with the new spring touching the rear or right side of the cup as shown


Is that how you have it?


you can PM me if you need more help

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