one I6 + one I6 = one I6 + junk?

[Whisslaren]

Hi everyone!

Sitting here thinking about engines.

What I have is one complete engine/auto/transfercase from a -87 comanche  and one complete engine/manual/transfercase from a -91 wrangler

What I need is a complete set engine/auto/transfercase.

Would be easiest to just take the comanche pack, but rumour has it the electronics on the wrangler pack is better. Is it?
The head on the wrangler motor is not useable beacuse of a exhaust bolt cracking off a corner of the head. Otherwise it works fine. The comanchepack works. It´s just tired and could use som tlc

Any recommendations?

 

What is the recommended rebuild amount on the AW4? It has som 200k km on it

Cheers
Daniel

[cruiser54]

The electronics aren't worth it. Here's a little thing I wrote about the HO.

 

HO myth buster

 

 

Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference. 

 

HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix and also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this?

 

The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold.

 

Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it. 

 

HO stands for Highly Overrated.

__________________

I've also done a few conversions of HO into Renix using Renix electronics with excellent success. 

[BeenJaminJames]

 

HO stands for Highly Overrated. 

 

 

Yup. :laughin: :rotf: :rotfl2:

[johnj92131]

You do not directly say what year truck you have.  But you do talk about having an 87, so I am going to assume you have an 87 truck with a "tired" engine and automatic transmission.

1, No point to doing all the work to change over the 87 electronics if they work right now.  Just a waste of effort.

2. Do you have a problem with the AW4?  Doesn't sound like you do, so just leave the transmission alone.  They run for a long, long time.

3. To use the H.O. engine you need to pull the head and replace it??  Did I understand correctly?  Why not pull the head on the 87 engine?  it is the same work.  Then you can fix the 87 for the same or less work than change to the H.O. engine.

[cruiser54]

You don't NEED to change the head to use an HO. His HO head has issues. The write-up below explains in detail what it takes to put an HO engine in place of a Renix the easiest and most efficient way.

 

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

 

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

 

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

 

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

 

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The  flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

 

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

 

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

 

 

Revised 03/28/13