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Posted

There's an older mechanic at the local jeep dealer that hoards all the old specialty tools . I can see If he has one . Have you checked with the motorhomes place out west? I know automan knows the name.

Posted

Alignment hole, vacuum pump removed... You can see the alignment notch halfway through the hole...

 

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Works like a charm.

 

Rob

Posted

No haven't checked anywhere yet, just was tinkering today and realized I need this tool as I have no clue where the PO left the timing when he removed the head. I was going to call the dealer tomm (chuckles) to see what they say, then see who sells winnabango's and hope I can get the tool through them,... Worst case I fashion one myself if I can get measurements. I have a mechanic friend but I'd be surprised if he has one.

Posted

Automan; you rock!!!

 

I will get on it tomm! Do I need to prime the injection pump? Or just crank it until it gets fuel?

Posted

The alignment notch is square cut, so it's easy to see it apart from counterweight balance drilling which is round. And remember... Number One cylinder is at the firewall. 5/16" is a perfect fit, drops right in, and holds tight. I imagine it's pretty spot on size to that notch.

 

 

Rob

Posted

Ok... It's hard to describe. Basically, the fuel pressure is your spark. Without sufficient fuel pressure, the engine will never fire. Cranking, cranking, and cranking will take forever and put undue stress on the starting system. You want to start with low pressure, and move to high pressure...

 

Everything up to the injection pump is low pressure or suction. After the injection pump is high pressure. Because the fuel just can't leak into the cylinder, the injectors have pop off pressure. Basically, a seat that requires so many PSI to open. Because air bubbles collapse under pressure, the pop off won't open. Rather than injecting fuel, the spent energy from the pump will collapse and expand the air bubbles.

 

Make sure you are getting clean fuel to the filter. IIRC, there is a bleeder on top of the filter housing. If you need to get fuel up to the filter housing, an old trick is to crack the bleeder and use some shop air and a rag to put slight PSI into the fuel tank to push some forward (not much at all). Once you have that done, move towards the pump. Crack the fitting at the pump inlet, and make sure you are getting fuel there. Once you are sure you have fuel to the injection pump, time to cross over to the high pressure side.

 

Since the high pressure side creates it's own pressure, you can go straight to the end of the system, the injectors. Crack the nut at the injector. At this point, if everything is good up to here, with the nuts loose, go ahead and crank the engine. Easier to use an assistant for this. Watch for the fuel/air coming out from the nuts. Be careful, because the diesel can spray out with some force. Don't go overboard on the cranking, but a little at a time. Once you start seeing a good amount of fuel, close the lines. Try cranking. It should start. If it runs rough, you may still have air in one of the lines. With it running, go ahead and crack the lines again and watch for fuel spray. As you crack each line, you will be killing that cylinder, so you will tell real quick which ones are contributing.

 

It's been so long since I messed around with the fuel system on mine. If you still need help, let me know. I can have a buddy record me and I can fumble my way through it on mine.

 

Rob

Posted

Cool thanks!!! So it's kinda like bleeding brakes!!

 

Dumb question; Can the crank be 180 out when you set the timing??

Posted

'Tis what the timing marks are for young patowan. And if you haven't gotten the timing belt yet, you will be pleasantly surprised to see the belt has them indexed and marked in yellow.

 

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Rob

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