Jacob Ochs Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 On my 86 Manche the front wheels are cambered negatively and it wears down my wheels on the inside very badly. It was like this before I did my 6.5 inch lift and its still there. I went to get it aligned today and they just couldn't do it they said! I would appreciate advice on fixing my camber! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 On my 86 Manche the front wheels are cambered negatively and it wears down my wheels on the inside very badly. It was like this before I did my 6.5 inch lift and its still there. I went to get it aligned today and they just couldn't do it they said! I would appreciate advice on fixing my camber! Thanks! /edit I'm half awake & mixed up toe with camber lol What control arms did you use for your 6.5" lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Ochs Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 I used control arm drops and they were cambered out before I lifted it aswell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Ochs Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 On my 86 Manche the front wheels are cambered negatively and it wears down my wheels on the inside very badly. It was like this before I did my 6.5 inch lift and its still there. I went to get it aligned today and they just couldn't do it they said! I would appreciate advice on fixing my camber! Thanks! /edit I'm half awake & mixed up toe with camber lol What control arms did you use for your 6.5" lift? I used control arm drops with stock arms and they were cambered out before I lifted it too so that couldn't the problem... Could it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Caster, Camber, and toe, which are you talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 The worst case scenario is that your axle is bent. If that's the case, one or both axle shafts won't be engaging the differential at 90 degrees and the condition will result in accelerated wear of the differential carrier bearings. IMHO the first thing you need to do is accurately measure both axle tubes (passenger side and driver side, not front and rear) to make certain that they are parallel. If you took the truck in for an alignment, didn't the technician tell you what the readings were? If the Cs are at the wrong angle to the axle tubes but the tubes are straight and parallel, there are ofset ball joints available that can correct for a certain amount of excess camber. Typically I've seen thenm in 1-degree flavor, but I believe there are other values available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I used control arm drops and they were cambered out before I lifted it aswell Huh? Please explain how you determined the camber before the lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Ochs Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 I used control arm drops and they were cambered out before I lifted it aswell Huh? Please explain how you determined the camber before the lift. You can literally see the tires like this /---- that's what they look like so I know that it's camber and this wore down my tires in about 6 months from 100% tread to about 20% on one side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Ochs Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 The worst case scenario is that your axle is bent. If that's the case, one or both axle shafts won't be engaging the differential at 90 degrees and the condition will result in accelerated wear of the differential carrier bearings. IMHO the first thing you need to do is accurately measure both axle tubes (passenger side and driver side, not front and rear) to make certain that they are parallel. If you took the truck in for an alignment, didn't the technician tell you what the readings were? If the Cs are at the wrong angle to the axle tubes but the tubes are straight and parallel, there are ofset ball joints available that can correct for a certain amount of excess camber. Typically I've seen thenm in 1-degree flavor, but I believe there are other values available. He did say offset ball joints would correct it I just want to know if there's any other way! He said the axle tubes were straight, the readings were 1.3* on the passengers side wheel and 1.8* on the drivers side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 The factory specification for camber is zero, with an allowable range of plus-or-minus 1/2 degree. The FSM stresses that camber must be the same on both sides. If the tubes are straight and parallel, the fix is either to replace the entire axle assembly, or offset ball joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Ochs Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 The factory specification for camber is zero, with an allowable range of plus-or-minus 1/2 degree. The FSM stresses that camber must be the same on both sides. If the tubes are straight and parallel, the fix is either to replace the entire axle assembly, or offset ball joints. Could I get adjustable ball joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Unfortunately the D30 front has a habit of bending. That is why companies offer internal and external trusses for the tubes and even the "c's". You see many of them trussed even if it is with home-made trusses. If someone did a Duke Boys "hold my beer and watch this" flying MJ stunt the axle may be bent. A hard landing would cause a bend that would create the cambered condition you describe. I know of no adjustable ball joints just " off set" ball joints as mentioned above. Here is a source for such ball joints in .5, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 degrees: http://www.jegs.com/p/Specialty-Products/SPC-Jeep-Dodge-Offset-Ball-Joints/755170/10002/-1 At $78 each x 4 I would think about finding another front axle if that turns out to be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 The factory specification for camber is zero, with an allowable range of plus-or-minus 1/2 degree. The FSM stresses that camber must be the same on both sides. If the tubes are straight and parallel, the fix is either to replace the entire axle assembly, or offset ball joints. Could I get adjustable ball joints? Ball joints are not "adjustable." Offset ball joints are set when they are installed and they correct for out-of-spec camber, but once installed they cannot be adjusted. We may be talking about the same thing, but the correct term is "offset," not "adjustable." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Ochs Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Okay thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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