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Steering Wheel Offset + Por15 Question


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Hey all,

 

I just removed my steering box because it was leaking at the input shaft, I ordered a rebuild kit from Autozone and want to rebuild it this weekend. Before I did this, my steering wheel was offset to the right when going straight by about 30 degrees.

 

I noticed that the attachement for the steering shaft is splined, meaning that if I do it right I can correct the offset in my steering wheel when putting it back by making sure the steering wheel is straight when putting it all back together. I don't know if this is actually a good idea, because I've been told that an offset steering wheel is usually fixed by a proper aligment. I just don't know if it needs an alignment, it didn't wander at all to the left or right while cruising on the highway...

 

Should I leave the offset there, and hope an aligment can fix it? I just don't know if a p/o put the steeringbox back in wrong, thus causing the offset. Would fixing it with the input shaft mean my offset could return during an alignment?

 

Secondly, about POR 15.

I want to coat my floor in it, I haven't looked at rust yet (i know, a sin) but I figured I might as well coat it in por 15 when I get the chance. How much of the stuff would I need? is it just one coat on bare metal? I've heard it can smell after it heats up, is this true?

 

Thanks for any help.

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The shaft should only allow one way figment, and the problem you have is that the alignment is off. The drag link gets adjusted to repair this problem, then the tie rod to repair toe in and out after you adjust drag link.

 

Okay, so my assumption that there's more than one way to fit the steering shaft to the steering box is incorrect?

That's good, thank you for your help. I shouldn't be able to mess up reinstalling it.

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The steering shaft will only fit one way. The bolt that holds the shaft to the steering box fits along a flattened spot.

 

I have never noticed cured POR smelling, even when hot. Under coating and bed liner certainly do. You will need a quart to do the entire floor, at least 2 coats. Be sure to get a lot of Metal Ready (Metal Prep nowdays).

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With the POR15, the Prep is a BIG PART!!

I have the Cleaner and Prep Solutions. I have used this in places where Rust is a typical issue.

I have not had any trouble with noxious smells or bad smells, after it has fully cured.

This stuff actually get a harder finish, with a higher humidity level.

I usually applied it Before a storm system was coming in.

The first thing I used it on, still looks like it was just applied (after a good washing).

I have used it on my MJ, and then used their "Tie Coat", then finished it, like any other body work.

Looks Great after 3 years. Still can't tell the difference.

I Swear by this stuff, just don't cut corners.

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