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Posted

It will start after being plugged in for a few hours, but it will not start cold. It could be 30 degrees and all it will do is crank. Started at -33 below after being plugged in no problem a few weeks ago. After its warm, runs fine. Stumbles a little till its warm.

 

Any ideas on where to start? Brand new plugs, wires, cap and rotor this fall. Fresh gas.

Posted

No start can be a lot of things, have you ever done a compression test? Vacuum check?

 

If spark and gas comes in freely and correctly (correct fuel pressure and proper spark plug gapping) then I'd check air. So compression, intake gasket, air hoses, air filter. All that good stuff.

Posted

I've checked air box and both lines running too it. The hard plastic line is cracked. Engine has 100k miles.

 

Starts just fine when it's warm is what's throwing me off.

Posted

Usually when an engine only starts warm, I'd suspect compression. You could try putting a bit of transmission oil in every sparkplug hole right before you start it cold, if it starts right away then your piston rings are worn.

Posted

No clue. But if it was just water or a bad mix, I think I would have had bigger issues already.

 

It will start cold if I dump gas down the TB. Gotta sit and babysit it till it warms up.

Posted

Brand new battery. This is my plow truck. I need it too start. And it always does but......obviously not as good or as easy as it should.

Posted

Is there fuel injection into the throttle body when cold?

Is there spark too?

 

If not then it could be compression, my friends car just lost almost all the compression and it is a pain to start, unless warmed up.

 

Might be wise to do a compression test in the cylinders.

Posted

Fuel pressure tester, test pressure inline by cycling key and pump. Then hop out and see how quick it bleeds down. If gone immediately, I suspect your injector is stuck partially open and not allowing it to give correct amt of gas on cold startup.

 

 

Could be compression so that should be checked too.

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