Spal And The School Of Hard Knocks

[Jeep Driver]

Below is the result of the second BWD fan switch failure.

I will do whatever I can to avoid BWD from now on. I've gone through 4 TPS (MJ and XJ, 2 each), went to a Standard brand brake switch after the BWD melted. I've had numerous other parts fail in the last year and a half but that's another story.

 

I got the Spal delivered today.

 

With the BWD the temp would rise just after the 210 mark before it would begin to cycle, temp gauge was never constant at idle.

I installed the Spal tonight, let it idle for more than 30 minute, the gauge never moved, not once. Fan cycle became predictable and gauge remained at about 195 the entire time.

 

I'm just making a shout out for Spal, finally something worked as it should.

 

Summit will beat their price-

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/2138/SPAL_Fan_Accessories2

 

 

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[Jeep Driver]

BTW, the over pressure also blew out my heater valve.

 

Had to be towed from another town too.

 

The whole situation sucked.

[ftpiercecracker1]

Few questions. . . .

 

What does BWD stand for? I will probably remember it once you say it, but its 12:00am and my brain is running slow. Is it a supplier, brand, part abbreviation?

 

So you have had 4 BWD TPS(s) that have been defective?

 

 

As far as the cycling temp gauge, if all it is is a simple coolant switch that goes on and off at a predetermined temp how would the SPAL make a lick of difference. Unless it was operated through resistance, meaning as the coolant got hotter the fan pulled more air, and vice versa. That would be the only way for the coolant to remain at a constant temp, right?

 

 

And another question. Did you not see that your temp gauge was pegged or were you in a situation that there was nothing you could do to have prevented such a catastrophic failure? Cause D**N that thing must have been HOT to blow a hole that freakin big.  :eek:

 

 

FWIW, I too run a dual (97+) electric fan setup. After much poking around on the internets i, somehow, stumbled onto this. . . .  http://www.rodneydickman.com/n20.html

 

I eventually, bought the 210/ON 200/OFF switch and installed it in one of the thermostat housings. It has been about a year and have had zero issues, knock on wood. However, while my temp gauge is rock solid during driving (205*), it is very cyclical at idle. 

[Jeep Driver]

Few questions. . . .

 

What does BWD stand for? I will probably remember it once you say it, but its 12:00am and my brain is running slow. Is it a supplier, brand, part abbreviation?

 

So you have had 4 BWD TPS(s) that have been defective?

 

 

As far as the cycling temp gauge, if all it is is a simple coolant switch that goes on and off at a predetermined temp how would the SPAL make a lick of difference. Unless it was operated through resistance, meaning as the coolant got hotter the fan pulled more air, and vice versa. That would be the only way for the coolant to remain at a constant temp, right?

 

 

And another question. Did you not see that your temp gauge was pegged or were you in a situation that there was nothing you could do to have prevented such a catastrophic failure? Cause D**N that thing must have been HOT to blow a hole that freakin big.  :eek:

 

 

FWIW, I too run a dual (97+) electric fan setup. After much poking around on the internets i, somehow, stumbled onto this. . . .  http://www.rodneydickman.com/n20.html

 

I eventually, bought the 210/ON 200/OFF switch and installed it in one of the thermostat housings. It has been about a year and have had zero issues, knock on wood. However, while my temp gauge is rock solid during driving (205*), it is very cyclical at idle. 

 

 

No, I didn't.

 

It was a cold morning about a month ago, I had the wife and son with me and we stopped at the local salvage yard, I left the truck running to keep them warm while I was looking for some plate to build my hitch with.

 

Just because a switch has a stated heat range does not mean it will operate within that range, or in my case can it be trusted to operate at all.

 

Yes, each of the TPS lasted about a year.

[ftpiercecracker1]

Well that sucks. 

 

 

 

 

No, I didn't.

 

It was a cold morning about a month ago, I had the wife and son with me and we stopped at the local salvage yard, I left the truck running to keep them warm while I was looking for some plate to build my hitch with.

 

Just because a switch has a stated heat range does not mean it will operate within that range, or in my case can it be trusted to operate at all.

 

Yes, each of the TPS lasted about a year.

 

 

 

And what about the other stuff

 

Few questions. . . .

 

What does BWD stand for? I will probably remember it once you say it, but its 12:00am and my brain is running slow. Is it a supplier, brand, part abbreviation?

 

 

As far as the cycling temp gauge, if all it is is a simple coolant switch that goes on and off at a predetermined temp how would the SPAL make a lick of difference. Unless it was operated through resistance, meaning as the coolant got hotter the fan pulled more air, and vice versa. That would be the only way for the coolant to remain at a constant temp, right?

 

 

FWIW, I too run a dual (97+) electric fan setup. After much poking around on the internets i, somehow, stumbled onto this. . . .  http://www.rodneydickman.com/n20.html

 

I eventually, bought the 210/ON 200/OFF switch and installed it in one of the thermostat housings. It has been about a year and have had zero issues, knock on wood. However, while my temp gauge is rock solid during driving (205*), it is very cyclical at idle. 

 

 

How does the SPAL hardware allow for a consisstant temp?