Adding On To A Lift Kit?

[hawkswag1]

I was wondering if i could add onto the rough country 4.5 inch kit I'm buying. I was thinking of going soa in the back and spacers in the front but keeping the kit shackles in the back as well. Since the kit comes with a t case drop kit and brake line drop brackets would there be a problem with going two inches or so higher?

[Eagle]

Doing a SOA conversion adds about 5-1/2" right there. On top of a 4-1/2" lift kit, you're at 10" iof lift.

 

And you want to add MORE?

[hawkswag1]

Nooo. I want around 6.5 so i was going to do a soa in the back and whatever else was needed to add the extra inch. I just thought it would be a good idea to use all kit components except the rear (excluding the shocks). And then add 2 inch spacers up front.

[hawkswag1]

I am very new to all this and suspension is not a strong point of mine

[Eagle]

For starters, why do you want 6-1/2"? Especially if you don't know much about suspensions, it's not a good idea to go higher than what you actually need for the truck and where it will be driven.

 

What size tires do you plan to run?

 

What wheels do you plan to run -- width and backspacing?

 

How much money do you have? At 6-1/2 inches, you should be budgeting at the LEAST for adjustable upper and lower control arms, and preferably a long arm conversion. How much of this is included in your kit?

 

Brake line drops are NOT adequate even for a 4-1/2" lift, and certainly not for 6-1/2". You should be budgeting for new brake lines -- scrap the drops -- they are a band-aid, nothing more.

 

Does the kit include an adjustable track bar? If so, does the range cover going to 6-1/2"

[dasbulliwagen]

^^^ All good questions. If you don't have adjustable control arms, some control arm drop brackets would be in order, and as stated, the adjustable track bar is a necessity. Longer shocks are also in order.

[92tanMJ]

And don't forget the SYE and driveshaft

[hawkswag1]

I am planning on 33 inch tires and i am going to use my current 15 inch wheels. Not sure about back spacing.

[92tanMJ]

For 33's, you don't need more the 4.5"

[hawkswag1]

The kit includes an adjustable trackbar new upper and lower control arms (not adjustable) a transfer case drop kit, 4 new nitrogen shocks, lifted coild for front, brake line drop, blocks and add a leaf for rear. I think thats about it

[hawkswag1]

So 4.5 would look good with 33's and perform well?

[92tanMJ]

The kit includes an adjustable trackbar new upper and lower control arms (not adjustable) a transfer case drop kit, 4 new nitrogen shocks, lifted coild for front, brake line drop, blocks and add a leaf for rear. I think thats about it

 

The adjustable trackbar is good. It would be really nice to have adjustable arms because if you do deside to lift it more down the road the arms could be made longer to work with the new lift hight. The transfer case drop kit, is EH. It is nothing more than a bandaid to cover up the real issue. Brake line drop as well are just a band aid. I would NOT ever run blocks on anything of mine. Why is that you ask, please check this out: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1021916

And if this is a kit for an XJ, that AAL will only give you half of what it says it will. Let me guess, is this a RC lift?

 

 

So 4.5 would look good with 33's and perform well?

Looks are all up too you. Here's 4.5" on 33's on an XJ so yours would look pretty much the same. I have in the works for my MJ 4.5" lift and 35's and a lot of trimming.Personally I beleive in LowCOG over skyhigh lifts..mostly becasue it is a matter of saftey.

Please read this if your wondering about Low COG set ups: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/low-cog-suspension-setup-tricks-tips-revised-9-24-12-a-32980/

 

 

Preformance wise, that will up to you as well...with what youre going to be doing with it.

[Eagle]

Personally I beleive in LowCOG over skyhigh lifts..mostly becasue it is a matter of saftey.

 

Please read this if your wondering about Low COG set ups: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/low-cog-suspension-setup-tricks-tips-revised-9-24-12-a-32980/

 

Seconded. Always go with the least amount of lift possible ... for several reasons.

 

FWIW, blocks tell me this is an XJ kit. The XJ starts out with SOA. The MJ is SUA -- blocks would LOWER an MJ, not lift it.

[hawkswag1]

Thanks so much you guys. And yes this is a rough country kit. And no it is not an xj kit. It is an mj kit. I said i believe it has blocks. I couldnt remember. Is rough country a bad option?

[92tanMJ]

 

Personally I beleive in LowCOG over skyhigh lifts..mostly becasue it is a matter of saftey.

 

Please read this if your wondering about Low COG set ups: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/low-cog-suspension-setup-tricks-tips-revised-9-24-12-a-32980/

 

Seconded. Always go with the least amount of lift possible ... for several reasons.

 

FWIW, blocks tell me this is an XJ kit. The XJ starts out with SOA. The MJ is SUA -- blocks would LOWER an MJ, not lift it.

Lol every time you quote me, I think to myself "damn what did I say wrong this time" hahaha

 

 

Thanks so much you guys. And yes this is a rough country kit. And no it is not an xj kit. It is an mj kit. I said i believe it has blocks. I couldnt remember. Is rough country a bad option?

 

As Eagle said the blocks will actually reduce the lift on an MJ because of them being sprung under axle. So I doubt it's a true MJ kit if it has blocks. And again the AAL will only give you half of what it says it will. Also AAL will and do make the leafs sag faster. Many people don't like rough country and knock it. IMO it's a good starter kit. It will ride 'good' for you and do what you ask of it. However, once you upgrade to a much better kit you will realize the ride sucks a big one.

 

If this is the kit you're looking at it has shackles and not blocks.

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-626-20.html

 

IMO you would be better off doing this, for basically the same amount of money with a MUCH better lift. But instead of going SOA I would get new leaf packs from hellscreek

http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/

[hawkswag1]

Yes that is the one. And you're right. Does the second one require shocks? 600 would probably be my budget and that doesnt include the price of shocks

[92tanMJ]

Yeah the second one does need them.. IMO that's a better rout to take but it does require welding

[MrSimon]

You've already gotten some great advice, but I'll add my $.02.

 

SOA is a great idea, but it gives different amounts of lift depending on the condition of your leaf packs.  Usually it gives 5"ish of lift give or take and inch.  In my opinion, its perfect for 33s and you won't need to go any higher.

 

You might have to tweek the front to get things level, but a 4.5" front coil usually matches up really well with a rear SOA.  If the rear sits a little too high, you can add a coil spring spacer up front to level it off.

 

Adjustable lower and upper control arms is REALLY nice.  It allows you to dial in the geomoetry of the front end to get your pinion and caster angles balanced out nicely.  An adjustable aftermarket track bar is a must to recenter your axle.

 

Personally I think 4.5" is about the max you can go without a longarm conversion or a set of drop brackets.  And frankly, if you can scrape together the money, going longarms from the start is absolutely the way to go.  They will give you a much smoother ride, much better offroad performance, and the ability to really dial in your angles.  I started with fixed short arms, then went to adjustable short arms, then went to adjustable short arms and drop brackets, and finally went to long arms.  I REALLY wish I would have gone lang arms in the beginning - would have saved a lot of money in the long run.

 

Heavy duty aftermarket extended brake lines are a GREAT idea.

 

Upgrading your steering is also a great idea, but that can wait until phase 2 if money is an issue.

 

Also, have you thought about axle and gear upgrades?  33s can put a lot of stress on a rear D35 and the truck will feel sluggish with stock gearing.