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Comanche Front Leaf Conversion - Steering?


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Hey everyone, I'll be starting a project thread soon with pics of my new Comanche, but right now I am putting together a parts list.

 

So far:

U-Bolts + Spring perches - Dana 30 / Ford 8.8 = $80
 
I am thinking it should net about 8" of lift, be much less expensive than a long arm kit, and simpler to maintain.
 
I have no idea what to do for steering. I have been told I need high steer crossover steering. I don't see any kits like they have for Toyota's for under $500...
 
Is this bracket going to lift my drag link above the leaves, and let me re-use all my old steering components?
 
Thanks.
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I don't know about the steering, but are you planning on getting 1.5" of lift out of those XJ lift shackles for the rear?  Factory MJ shackles are much longer than XJ ones, so XJ lift shackles won't do you much good in an MJ.

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I don't know about the steering, but are you planning on getting 1.5" of lift out of those XJ lift shackles for the rear?  Factory MJ shackles are much longer than XJ ones, so XJ lift shackles won't do you much good in an MJ.

 

For leaf springs, I decided to get front YJ and rear MJ 4" leafs:

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-leaf-springs-leaf-spring-accessories/jeep-yj-wrangler-86-95-suspension-lift-leaf-springs/rustys-leaf-springs-yj-4-front-each.html

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-leaf-springs-leaf-spring-accessories/jeep-mj-comanche-84-91-suspension-leaf-springs/rustys-leaf-springs-mj-4-rear-pair.html

 

It's going to sprung over. I am trying to get this pretty level. The front YJ shackles should also be stock height, so I imagine it would size well with the rear shackles?

I will just reuse my rear shackles though, not sure why I didn't think of that.

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SOA and 4" leaves in the back is going to leave you with (about) 10 inches of lift in the rear.

 

I'd just assumed you were going with SOA in the back on stock leaves, and getting the rest out of the XJ shackles.  You may want to get small lift springs for the rear if you're wanting to net about 8".

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Typically most people do a leaf spring setup in front when installing a 44 or 60, which is when the hysteer crossover setup comes in to handle the steering issues. Tell me why your doing this with a d30? Just to go 8"? Why you going that big to run what size tires? If that big assuming 36"+ and so you have a built 30 or plan to upgrade? But to get back to steering. Your steering issues you can get tera knuckle hysteer setup or reid racingt has a hysteer knuckle for the 30 as well. Also otr has a u style bracket for the stock knockle for crossoveer steering but not sure that be high enought to clear for the springs.

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Typically most people do a leaf spring setup in front when installing a 44 or 60, which is when the hysteer crossover setup comes in to handle the steering issues. Tell me why your doing this with a d30? Just to go 8"? Why you going that big to run what size tires? If that big assuming 36"+ and so you have a built 30 or plan to upgrade? But to get back to steering. Your steering issues you can get tera knuckle hysteer setup or reid racingt has a hysteer knuckle for the 30 as well. Also otr has a u style bracket for the stock knockle for crossoveer steering but not sure that be high enought to clear for the springs.

 

I can't afford a 44 or 60 at the moment, I will run 35's. The Dana 30 should hold up for a bit. I don't want to trim, and all the Comanche's I am seeing have trouble fitting 33's on 6.5" lifts.

I want this setup because it's the setup I want later to run 37"+, and all I will need is stronger axles and trimming.

On that topic, is a 97+ TJ / JK my only option for a 5 lug Dana 44 or stronger?

 

I am ordering this, and just going to pray it clears the drag link over the leaf springs: http://www.jb4x4.com/store/jbrsb.htm

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Issues fitting 33's with 6.5" lift? My '91 only had 3" lift with 31's and there was plenty of room considering 31's will fit on stock without a lift. Anyways, will be an interesting build so I am intrigued. Personally though I'd hold off until axles can be acquired. Your plans for the D30 has already been said, but what about the rear? Since you have not said what rear you have I assume it is the more common D35, which is a horrible axle and shouldn't really be paired with something as large as 35" tires.

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Issues fitting 33's with 6.5" lift? My '91 only had 3" lift with 31's and there was plenty of room considering 31's will fit on stock without a lift. Anyways, will be an interesting build so I am intrigued. Personally though I'd hold off until axles can be acquired. Your plans for the D30 has already been said, but what about the rear? Since you have not said what rear you have I assume it is the more common D35, which is a horrible axle and shouldn't really be paired with something as large as 35" tires.

 

I already have a Ford 8.8 pulled for the rear.

 

I might have underestimated the height I will achieve, but it's hard to tell at this point.

 

If I get 5 from SOA and have 4" springs (stock rear MJ shackles, YJ 1.75 front shackles), I should end up around 9" at the most, correct?

 

Looking at different builds and claimed heights just confuses me more...

For example, the first rig looks snug with 35's, the second rig looks 38's look small (9" vs 10"):

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rusty_rigs/rig.php?id=59&sort=primary_key%20DESC&lift8=1&mj=1&page=1

ttp://www.rustysoffroad.com/rusty_rigs/rig.php?id=2126&sort=primary_key%20DESC&lift8=1&mj=1&page=1

 

 

I jut want 35's to look decent until I have the funds to upgrade the front axle. But now I am also worried that a ford 8.8 + narrow front dana 44 will not be wide enough for this height.

 

I know a good deal for a set of 78 F250 dana 44/60 (69" wms to wms) with 5.87 gears. I think those gears are too low and axles too wide, but what do you think? Which route would you take?

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I'd grab the wider F250 axles if the will work, I don't know anything about them so no clue where the pumpkin is at on them. Though you could always just run wheel spacers to even things out no matter the route you go.

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I am probably just screwing myself with a Ford 8.8 because there aren't really any good front upgrade options with the same width...  :doh:

Exactly, that's why I often recommend against the 8.8 rear.  Don't get set on a 5-lug wheel pattern.

 

A Waggy front d44 can be had for under $200 and you'll be able to upgrade to high-steer much easier/cheaper.  Then you'll also have larger serviceable bearings, larger brakes, and locking hubs.  Not to mention a stronger axle housing.

 

I use a Isuzu Rodeo rear d44 so I have 6-lug wheels at all 4 corners, and it has rear disc brakes.  Honda Passport would be another rear d44 donor.

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I ran up to 40's on my 4 corner leaf set up and around 7" of lift with ford 44/60 axles and 3.5" lift yj leafs in the front and stock MJ leafs in back with 1.5" lift shackles in the rear. I'm trimmed more then needed but not so much that I still cat run factory flairs. As long as you set up your bumpstops properly you can manage the tire size with minor trimming. Keep in mind the general rule that lower and wider is better for stability. So the taller you go the wider you should go as a general rule of thumb. Good luck with it

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Thanks guys. MiNi Beast, your comanche is a beast!!

 

I am scrambling to buy a good set of 44's or 44/60. Let's say I find a front 44, what is the minimum parts i will need to get the drag link over the leaf springs?

 

Will my steering parts / knuckles need to be different (other than width) if I go with a waggy 44 vs a f 250 44?

 

Thanks.

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Thanks man. :rock:

Best to find a 44 with flat top knuckles, other wise you can pick some up typically for like $75 for a pair. But if do get an axle with flat top then you will have to have it machined to accept a hy steer arm which will allow drag link mounting. Now depending on setup u may or may not need a spacer between the arm and knuckle, but all that is a dependent on what configuration you end up working with. Now just keep in mind that you will be stepping into a new money bracket with a 44 vs 30, but people are here to remind you to make a plan of what you want to do, how big you want to go and to spend money wisely. No sense in wasting your money on something your going to replace soon after. Also less work involved.

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Thanks man. :rock:

Best to find a 44 with flat top knuckles, other wise you can pick some up typically for like $75 for a pair. But if do get an axle with flat top then you will have to have it machined to accept a hy steer arm which will allow drag link mounting. Now depending on setup u may or may not need a spacer between the arm and knuckle, but all that is a dependent on what configuration you end up working with. Now just keep in mind that you will be stepping into a new money bracket with a 44 vs 30, but people are here to remind you to make a plan of what you want to do, how big you want to go and to spend money wisely. No sense in wasting your money on something your going to replace soon after. Also less work involved.

 

I really wish this worked with the Dana 44 since I already ordered it:

http://www.jb4x4.com/store/jbrsb.htm

 

My next cheapest option looks like this:

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/981/BTF-Cross-Over-Steering-Bracket-for-Dana-30-44-Knuckle.aspx

It claims to work well for clearing drag link over SOA YJ springs.

But then I would need heim joints...

 

The cheapest knuckle I see is about $250, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rei-d44001cr?seid=srese1&gclid=CIr2_8v79rcCFeU5Qgod2TQAXQ

and the arm would be $125 (3" to be safe): http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana44crossover.htm

 

 

You are right I am stepping into a new money bracket, the small crap is going to nickle and dime me to death, and I had pretty much spent my budget with the ford 8.8 / dana 30 setup.

It just doesn't make sense to do all this welding though if I am going to want beefier axles later, so I need to suck it up.

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I run BTF high-steer arms on my Waggy front, they're reasonable priced and clear my RE SOA springs just fine.  I run TRE's, not heims.  You'll need a passenger side flat-top knuckle minimum, unless you want the tierod over the springs too, then pick up a DS flat-top knuckle.  The DS flat-top is plentiful and cheap, the PS is a little more rare and costs a little more.

 

Whether you go with the Waggy axle housing or the full-width Ford, you can use the same GM/Jeep flat-top knuckles designed for disc brakes.  You can use GM/Jeep parts from the knuckle out on either axle housing.  The big benefit of the '78/'79 Ford F250 d44 is the thicker axletubes and high pinion.  I'm narrowing two Ford d44's to Waggy width to run Waggy shafts for these two benefits alone.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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