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87 Mj Workhouse Build


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I just bought my uncles 87 Comanche Pioneer that he bought brand new. Its a 4.0 i6 5speed 2wd short bed that id like to turn into a 4x4. I don't plan to make a trail rig out of it but i would like to use it as a work horse on the farm and possibly plow driveways with it but still be able to get somewhat decent mpg on the road. I want to know what the best axles to use are, should i get the 231 or 242 transfer-case, will the big ton leaf spings fit on a short bed without any modifications? I want basic bolt in solutions not requiring any fabricating. I also need to know what it takes to swap out my gauge cluster with one that has a tac and actual gauges not just idiot lights, and what it takes to swap the bench seat for buckets and a center counsel as well as changing the nose to that of a 98-01 xj.

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For axles the best no fabrication required would be the MJ Dana 44 in the rear and a 97-99? HP Dana 30 (should have the larger u-joints) or non cad Dana 30 89-96 (smaller u-joints but will be one part shafts) up front

 

Transfer case, I am running a 242 behind my AX-15, I like it because it offers Full time 4wd, just take note that an auto locker in the front axle while in full time 4wd is a bad idea, however a selectable locker is ok to run in full time 4wd while it is off. If you plan to run an auto locker in the front just get the 231.

 

All the rear leaf springs for the MJ mount the same, if you find big ton springs from a long bed they will work on your short bed. I bought my MT leaf springs new from Hell Creek Suspension, they offer a discount to Comanche club members. Their springs are very well made.

 

The gauge cluster can be swapped out and is for the most part plug and play, just replace the sending units for oil pressure and coolant temp and should be good to go. When shopping just take note of the plastic of the cluster, if its light blue get another with light blue plastic, if its white then get one with white plastic, they are not interchangeable.

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There is a write up for swapping the bench for buckets but needs minor fab work, or find a MJ with bucket seats.

 

The console is very simple to swap just make sure you have all the mounting brackets.

 

Also I think this thread is in the wrong section,

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I haven't decided if I'm going to run selectable or auto lockers yet, the 4x4 will probably only used on occasion like in snow or if I'm camping or working on the farm...what advantages would i get with one type over the other? What section should this thread be in? I'm new to all this forum stuff so I'm not 100% sure whats what yet

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It looks like the thread was moved where it should be.

 

The lockers you get will depend on how much you can spend and what transfercase you plan to use.

 

The 242 offers 2wd, 4wd part time, 4wd full time, neutral, 4wd low part time.

 

The 231 offers 2wd, 4wd part time, neutral, 4wd low part time.

 

4wd part time means the front and rear drive shafts are locked it will not allow one to spin faster than the other, like during turns.

 

4wd full time allows the drive shafts to spin at different speeds, again during turns for example. This is important because if the shafts can't differentiate it will cause the transfer case to bind and in worst case snap the case.

 

Now for the locker,

Auto locker or lunchbox lockers, they work about the same, lock the axle when power is applied and unlock when there is no power (coasting down hill, or letting off the throttle) auto lockers can be bought as a full carrier replacement or a spider gear replacement. (I just bought an Aussie locker for my rear Dana 44)

 

You can only install a lunchbox (spider gear replacement) locker in an open diff carrier. It will not work in a limited slip carrier.

 

For the most part (from what i have read and been told) auto lockers are safe to use in the rear axle of daily drivers, however if you plan to use an auto locker in the front axle you will not be able to safely use the 242's full time feature. So in that case I would get a 231 because they are usually easier to find. Driving a auto locker in the front axle while in 2wd it will seem like its not there.

 

Selectable lockers,

These lockers are full carrier replacements and can be turned on and off at will, so if you had a 242 you could run a selectable in the front with it off while in full time and it will act just like a open diff, when you are ready for off road just turn on the locker and now the axle is locked. ( I plan to get a selectable locker for the front axle)

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I don't get snow in south Alabama, so I can't say how using 4wd with a front auto locker will work out for you. Search the MJ tech and pub for more info or google it. I think it would be a bad idea to run a front auto locker and use it on snow and ice on-road

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I was talking to a buddy of mine who has done a couple jeep builds and he was saying to just go with a 231 t-case for what I'm going to be doing...ive read that the 242 is better for heavy off roading but that it gives issues when you go to lift the truck. I don't have alot to spend on this build but i want the best options for my applications. I do alot of hauling, pulling and the ocassional playing in the mud. i just wan to keep from getting stuck when I'm on the farm. I'm hoping i don't have to deal with snow after next year when i finish school and head down to Birmingham where my dad lives. Ill post some pics when i get my uncles garaged cleaned out enough to get the jeep out

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok so i have decided to run auto lockers with the 231 t-case behind an ax-15 trans. I just got the title for the jeep and its actually an 88 not an 87 (we got the 2 mj's mixed up). Will i need to replace the transmission cross member when i change transmissions for the 4x4?

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Ok so i have decided to run auto lockers with the 231 t-case behind an ax-15 trans. I just got the title for the jeep and its actually an 88 not an 87 (we got the 2 mj's mixed up). Will i need to replace the transmission cross member when i change transmissions for the 4x4?

The ax-15 was started mid 89 I think, so because yours is an 88 it did not come with one factory, yes the cross member will need to be replaced and it will bolt into the second set of bolts (same place as the auto trans x-member)

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  • 3 weeks later...

if i got a 10/5 trans that it would have had factory would i still need to replace it? i know the ax15 is a better trans but I'm just curious about the 10/5 x-member and the 88 2wd 5 speed trans (ax-5?) do i have clearance to run 235/75r15's on a stock 2wd?

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