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1989 swb, 4x4, 4.0, 5spd.  I am in the middle of dropping in another engine and have 90% of the engine harness ran. As of right now i have two issues,

 

 

 

1. starter clicks only once when i turn the key, I have to wait a min, with key off, before i can get it to do it again, interior lights and radio work normally the whole time.

 

Battery is fully charged, terminals are clean and tight, starter relay is good with all old connectors cut off and replaced with shiny new ones, starter also works fine, installed on engine and tested with jumper cables before dropping engine into bay.

 

 

2. Fuel pump no worky, worked perfectly when i took it out, EDIT: also the ballast resistor has been bypassed.

 

I know the problem is the ground, I just don't know where/how the fuel pump is grounded, the plug for the pump (at the back of the cab) is getting power, just no ground

 

 

 

 

I can have pictures up within min if you need to see something.

 

thanks guys,

ftpiercecracker

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Starter issue check ground on engine at dipstick where head block meet has to be clean and tight. Also try wiggling the shifter nss can do it too try cleaning the plug roughly same spot as said ground. Ground for fuel pump is by driver side tail light really i doubt its the issue recheck the fuel pump wiring inside the tank and the plug.

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 Ground for fuel pump is by driver side tail light really i doubt its the issue recheck the fuel pump wiring inside the tank and the plug.

 

 

That would explain alot, because the bed isnt on.  :rotf:     I have the pump in a brand new tank, will it still run with the tank completely dry?  

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Ok so after a little more tinkering, starter works great, when you turn the key you have to hold it at its farthest turn. But the Fuel pump is still not kickin in, i used the trucks battery and manualy tested it and it works fine. The incoming plug has power and i deduced which wire was the ground (red with yellow stripe) and grounded it, still nada. There is a third wire in the plug, but i am not sure what it does.  

 

 

Here is a little information that i failed to include for one because I thought i had it right and for two i doubt anybody on here knows this kind of detail purly from memory.

 

Here goes,

 

the EGR solenoid and the Ballast resistor share and wire (orange with black stripe) . This wire runs out and infront of the truck in a wiring loom, during removal of the EGR i snipped where theses two wires merge, about in the middle of the truck. Being in a hurry i failed to take note on which wire went where after the merge. I traced both wires and found one went to a large electrical plug right next to the row of four black relays (passenger side fender well) The other wire actually goes to one of the relays, the one closest to the firewall, i think. I decided to connect the wire that goes to the Ballast resistor to the wire that went to the relay.

 

I will take pictures to make this a little more clear.

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WhaHOOOO, SHE LIVES ONCE MORE!!!!      :jump:              The issue with the fuel pump WAS the ground after all, in a last ditch effort i cut the ground wire half way back, ground off a spot on the frame, used a good ole self tapper and grounded that sucker. I went in the cab, turned the key and heard the sweet sweet hum of a working fuel pump.  Now to go change my sig

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Well, i am able to start the motor but it won't stay running. Starts normally, RPMs drop like it is going to try to idle but after a few seconds it really starts to struggle/stumble and even with gentle feathering of the TB (by hand) it still dies. Also when you try to rev it, it hesitates, SEVERELY. 

 

I have a few ideas,

 

 

1.  To adapt the HO fuel lines to the Renix ones i cut the Renix lines about half way underneath the intake man. When i cut through the Renix lines i noticed there was somekind of paper lining in them. I am wondering if when i pushed the HO metal lines into the Renix rubber lines did that "paper" peel off and clog the lines?

 

 

2. I followed Cruiser's TPS adjustment writeup, the TB is brand new from Leigh performance (63mm). I used my multimeter like he instructed, but there are several settings for OHMs, 200k, 20k, 20m, 200m, 200, and 600. Set on the lowest setting for OHMs (200), with the black lead on COM and the negative battery terminal and red on OHMs and touching the 'B' lead of the TPS plug the meter reads 40 something. According to Cruiser it should be less than 1!  

 

 

3. The fuel pump was working, and it still seems to be because the engine does start and run however limited, but when i put my fuel pressure tester on the schrader valve i get nada, key on or engine running there appears to be no pressure. This is what makes me think the lines are clogged.

 

 

 

 

This is a 93 ZJ 4.0

99+ intake manifold

Renix exhaust manifold

Custom TPS adapter (DIY forum)

Bored out TB (63mm)

ALL engine control/electronics are RENIX.

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Instead of starting a new thread i figured i would continue on with this one. 

 

Can someone please take a picture of where the ground is for the interior? I am pretty sure i heard hornbrod say its up under the dash, on the drivers, side near a dash support brace, but mine isnt there, apperantly i forgot to put it back after pulling dash. :doh:

 

I am having a few issues with my gauges and i am pretty sure its the ground or lack there of.

 

dash lights don't come on with headlights, headlight switch is fine and i know about the dimmer, clock dims as it should.

Oil pressure and volt gauge both quit working with headlights on, work perfect with HL off

fuel guage is reading erractically, it will read fine one moment then start going up and down randomly for no apparent reason.

windshield wiper delay is not working, delay module is hooked up, worked perfectly before i pulled the dash, tried unplugging and replugging, no worky.

 

 

 

 

Also, are all solid black wires grounds? If so, and i can't trace them, can i cut, splice and reground them to be sure they are grounded? I am speaking about interior wiring only.

 

 

 

ftpiercecracker ;)

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Appreciate it, i will check in that location. The picture will help a lot too.

 

Are there any grounds, that you know of, in the interior that have to go through the ecu/fuse box? In other words, if i find a solid black wire that i cannot trace, can i just cut, splice, and reground it to be sure its grounded? 

 

Thanks

ftpiercecracker

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Driverside kick panel there is a black bar attached to the body going to steering column. Below or above it where mounts to body is where the ground is look up cruisers tips ground refreshing. Ill take a pic in a bit

 

Yep, I'd like to see a location pic also. Have never been able find this dash grounding connection on my 91. Figured it might be a Renix thing that was corrected when the HOs came out, as so many things were. Do you have to pull off the kick panel to see it?

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If for a light ect sure something that goes thru ecu probly not.

 

 

Thats the kicker, how would you know what goes through the ecu? (rhetorical)

 

 

might be a Renix thing that was corrected when the HOs came out, as so many things were.

 

hey hey hey, don't be hatin on Renix now.  :fs2:  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

;)

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For wipers black wire off wiper module

 

Fuel gauge tan wire from cluster to fuel sender after it goes threw potentiometers to ground

 

 

For dash lightd check org/black wire from headlight switch goes to fuse box out of fuse box to org/black to the cluster check for a short to ground nicks ect

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Well right now all the issues with cluster are none ecu issues.

 

What? :hmm:

All issues are cluster related and are not ecu issues so essentially as long as u reground those wires ull be fine check those wires i just sent

Got those colors from my manual the wiper black is a ground rest is 12v+.

Also check black ground from cluster goes straight to ground.

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I am gonna just pull the dash tomorrow so that i can make sure i do this right.  When i put the dash in just a few weeks ago i know i could have done a better job of it, who knows what i might have missed, plus i will then be able to trace wires instead of cutting and splicing. :ack:

 

 

 

 

On a side note, i have long since removed the emissions timer deal, but i was wondering if i can cut out its associated wiring and be rid of it entirely. :dunno:

 

 

thanks 87 for the infomation :thumbsup:

 

ftpiercecracker

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