Is It Safe To Torch A Transmission Bolt?

[eric.toupin]

Hi All,

 

Have found this forum really useful so far. I'm in in the process of installing a new clutch kit / master cylinder for my 1990 2.5L 4 cylinder, 2WD. I've removed the driveshaft, drained the transmission fluid, removed the crossmember and disconnected all the various gadgets from the transmission. The bolts holding the bell housing to the engine were seized pretty fierce.

 

I have all but one bolt on the transmission broke free (loosed, or however you say that), although I tightened them back up once I got them to break free. There's only one remaining, and I can't for the life of me get it. It's counter-clockwise one bolt from the topmost bolt, 18mm, and has what I believe is the timing sensor cable clip attached to it which makes it hard to get at. I cannot get a breaker bar on it, and all I can fit in there is a standard 18mm wrench (from the top) which I can only get to fit in the space one awkward way. It's not a great grip and even if it was, I'm not sure I could break it with that wrench. I've tried about a million angles of attack with every tool I can scrounge.

 

I've blasted all the bolt heads and visible nuts with PB Blaster several times (only way I was able to loose the first few) but still no luck. For the life of me I can't get a good angle on it.

 

Is using a torch the next step? I read here: http://www.carforum.net/routine-preventative-maintenance/5506-how-remove-rusted-seized-bolts.html that I should heat up the nut, not the bolt, but am not sure if I can heat the metal that the transmission nut screws into safely -- that's the engine, as far as I can tell -- seems iffy.

 

Any help / tips would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

[jimoshel]

Lower the transmission as far as it will go. I've never had any problem but keep a eye on the fan blade- radiator so they don't meet. Now use a 18mm socket with a u-joint and as many extensions as you got so your rachet-breaker bar is near the rear of the tranny. It's a tight fit but it can be done.

[Geonovast]

Have you tried the two-wrench trick? That's what I've always done on the top 2.5 trans bolts.

[Biotex]

Like Jim said. Lower the rear of the tranny as much as you can without causing damage some where else. You should then be able to get at it from below with extensions and a swivel. You can wrap some tape around the swivel to help keep it from being too wobbly and slipping off.

[eric.toupin]

Jim & Biotex: Worked perfect. I didn't have a long enough extension to get the breaker back behind the tranny, but I picked one up this morning and the bolt came loose with only a little fuss. Thanks a ton.

 

Another question: I just noticed that the slave (concentric bearing or whatever) I bought has some different fitting than the slave that's in there. Or at least it appears to. I haven't been able to disconnect the slave that's there yet -- can't get at it and it's on super tight. Was going to wait until I could disconnect / lower the tranny some.

 

Anyway, here are some pictures:

 

Old slave (still in there):

 

Then the new one:

 

I can't figure where the black plastic cylinder would connect. The interior is not threaded, etc.

 

Thanks for all the answers, getting there bit by bit!

[Geonovast]

The black plastic is probably a protective cover for the connection to the master. I imagine it pops right off.

 

The other one is a bleeder.

[eric.toupin]

That's what I figured, although it doesn't seem to pop right off. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Should make better sense when I see the new hydraulic lines. Should I be cleaning up the inside of the bell housing / pressure plate area while I've got everything off? Maybe bolts and whatnot, too? Not sure if that really matters. It's very grimy all around:

 

[Biotex]

When I replaced my slave on my YJ, I ended up throwing that black plastic thing away. It seems I remember reading somewhere that there is an automatic bleeder inline on those, but I bled mine the old way.

When you reinstall the tranny, I suggest you make a set of alignment dowels and screw them into the back of the block at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions. I've seen people mess up their pilot bushings and break their input bearing retainers before because they get too agressive trying to stab the tranny back on. If you need a picture of what I'm saying, no problem, I can post one up.

[eric.toupin]

Thanks a ton for the tip. A picture would be really useful. I'm fairly new to the guts of cars / trucks, so it's easier to put an eye on it. Thanks!

[hillbilly51@aol.com]

Just be sure that you don't cut the plastic ties that hold the new Throwout bearing in it's collapsed position.

Hydraulic pressure will break the ties when you push the clutch pedal after your are finished with the installation.