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Jeep Liberty Gurus. 2Wd To 4Wd? Sir Sam?


JeepcoMJ
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So in the process of building one liberty to replace the one my bro rolled a couple years back, we ended up with another tboned renegade that runs and drives great.

 

Just found a 2wd shell, no engine, trans, exhaust for a good deal.

 

Would it be safe to assume that they are, like XJ's and MJ's, cross compatible if you have all of the appropriate parts to do the swap?

 

 

I should be able to tell once I get there, but if it's not possible, then it's not worth my time to look...

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Sam, do you by any chance know where the Security Key Interlock System information gets stored?

 

The silver limited had it, the renegade didn't. I put the ECU, TCU, BCM from the renegade in it, but didn't disable it. I disconnected the sensor on the column, as the renegade was, and it wouldn't run.

 

I can't think of anyplace else that info would get stored.

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Sam, do you by any chance know where the Security Key Interlock System information gets stored?

 

The silver limited had it, the renegade didn't. I put the ECU, TCU, BCM from the renegade in it, but didn't disable it. I disconnected the sensor on the column, as the renegade was, and it wouldn't run.

 

I can't think of anyplace else that info would get stored.

 

If you accidentally left the Sentry Key Immobilization Module(SKIM), the sensor by the keys, plugged in with power to it with the ECU hooked up the ECU will initialize the sentry feature, but not program it correctly. If that is the case hopefully the dealership can fix it for you.

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on the diesels its just the BCM and the SKIM, I think on the gasser is the BCM ECU and SKIM, but that would seem to be contrary to what you are observing, thats pretty odd.

 

Only other thing I can think of would be the ACM, but that doesn't make sense to me.

 

But you said "as the renegade was" if there renegade had a SKIM and it was disconnected that different than the renegade just not having it.

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I do not want it.

 

I do not want $50+ keys.

 

I only have one. I refuse to pay a dealership to set up the rest.

 

One of the jeeps didn't have it. So I'm asking where that info is stored so that I can swap whatever needs to be swapped so that I can make it work without that SKIM garbage.

 

No one is going to try and steal it, and if they do, it has full coverage....not a problem. What I don't want is expensive keys since they stay on my hip, and I've melted more than one key as a result of this while working. That's not going to change, I feel trapped when I don't have my keys.

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You can get the SKIM key copied at any ace hardware for less than $20.

 

Couple of things to help me, back up for a second and lets be clear about what is where. What vehicle was the donor and what vehicle was the recipient? What combination of stuff from what vehicle went into your current configuration.

 

The only real way to delete the SKIM system is to get the ECU flashed to not use it. Which will cost more than several new keys. The SKIM module is the receiver with halo antenna that sits around the key tumbler.

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The Limited is the vehicle that had SKIM, and has been fixed.

 

The Renegade was the donor.

 

I put the engine, trans, transfercase, engine harness, front suspension, rear suspension, both axles, and the ECM, TCM, BCM from the Renegade into the Limited. This should mean that the SKIM doesn't work anymore.

 

 

 

I DID leave the SKIM hooked up, key in the ignition but not turned on, with the battery hooked up.

 

The only computer I know of that I haven't swapped is the one directly in front of the center console under the dash mounted to the floor, which I imagine is the airbag control module.

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Ya, I think you must have activated the SKIM circuits in the new donor ECU now(I don't think that should have happened without turning the key to on, but must have). You could get that removed, but it will cost about $125 to get the computer reflashed to remove it. Just get some keys copied, and goto the dealer with the vin for the old vehicle and ask them for the PIN number, this will make it easier to program new keys in the future should you need it.

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K. I will have to have the dealer program the keys in the vehicle then. If it is going to have skim, I'm just gonna put the original computers back in it and call it good. The liberty I picked up today also needs this done then, and I have two spare RKE remotes so was going to have one programmed to each liberty so the one I'm keeping has 3 and the one I'm selling has 2

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nvm. not a mod so I can't access your email. posting here.

 

Hey Sam,

 

Rob sent you an email with link to diesel liberty earlier. I talked to the owner, no idea what's wrong with it. I'm wondering what the typical issues with the diesels are, what my areas of concern should be, what I should be looking at mechanically.

 

Since I've started toying with liberties (check out my KJ build thread if you haven't already), I've decided to get one myself, and sell the xj. I'd prefer a diesel obviously, and that one's in the right ball park as I can get it cheaper than that, or they would concider straight up trade for my stock limited liberty 4x4 3.7l to tow behind their motorhome, as they already have the brackets for it to do this.

 

Any insight would be great. A diesel liberty is right up my alley.

 

Thanks,

 

Pat

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Hmmm, odd.

 

Anyways.

 

 

Ya I looked at that one. Without knowing more I hesitate to venture a guess, its completely possible that the belt slipped and trashed the rockers, in which case you are talking about about $1000 worth of parts and for a first timer about 3-5 days of work to get it done.

 

Its also possible they messed something up when towing, ie put the transfer case in 4 hi or something, or left the tranny in neutral. That whole part about the mileage being lower because it was towed is BS, these things only count mileage when the key was turned to on. and I don't see why they would turn the key to on for hours to tow it behind an RV.

 

You could ask if the timing belt was replaced. Does it even run now? If it does what does it sound like. What happened when it stopped running right, etc.

 

If you could get it cheap enough you could get a deal on it, if you are really lucky it will just be a timing belt job + rockers. For me thats about 8-10 hours of teardown, and about 14 hours of reassembly, count that for you it would take twice as long as a first timer.

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Key has to be in the Run position to tow in order for it to steer behind the RV. unless they put a cutout switch on the battery, it's entirely possible that the mileage is as they say. I do know that tow-behind kits like the one they have include a charging and grounding cable to keep the towed vehicle's battery charged up.

 

 

 

They said it does not run, and I didn't get much info other than they started it, and it did a bunch of clattering, and shut down. presumably they took it to a mechanic, as they told me their mechanic said it could be simple, or cost half of what they're asking to do. They did not replace the timing belt

 

I think I could get it for $3500. is that fair value? even if it's catastrophic damage?. I would not personally do the work...my dad has tons of diesel experience, so I would let him at least set it up and time it, then maybe I'd replace the broken parts...but I'd just as soon leave it up to him and learn while he shows me what's got to be done.

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