feerocknok Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 I grabbed a Rusty's adjustable track bar *grumble grumble*, but I can't get the tie rod end in all the way. I mounted it on the axle first, set the tie rod at the needed length (now that I think about it, I forgot to set the jam nut) but how do I get the tie rod end in the bracket all the way? I tried tightening it up and hammering it up, but it looks like the boot is stopping me from getting to the point that the cotter pin goes through. Should I toss the boot or will that fatigue the joint too much in the dirt? The boot is like plastic instead of rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 I had the same problem on mine when I switched a SKYJACKER heim joint to a TRE. I removed and installed it a couple times. Making sure there where no burs or debris in the taper. Finally I was able to get about 3/4 of the hole visable thru the castle nut. I ended up wiring it instead of using a cotter pin. I think a reg TRE has slightly different spec than a joint intended for use as a TB end. Knowing RUSTYS reputation for shoddy quality, design and customer service, this would not suprise me in the least!!! Good luck, CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 ive heard of people having to turn the wheels to get them to go in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 I found it much easier to attach the frame side, then deal with the bushing at the axle side. Once you have the measurement you can disconnect the axle side and put it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 17, 2007 Author Share Posted March 17, 2007 I got it in! I disconnected the bar, cleaned the taper on the tie rod end, and installed that end first. I'm not sure if it was the cleaning or not attaching the bushing first, but thank you all for the help! And the truck now rides like a dream. Much better than my mother's Tacoma or brother's Ranger, which I think is saying something with a solid axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 I was gonna say that if it is just too short, you can use a stover instead of a castle/pin. Not many OEMs use them, but they work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefJosh Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 What's a "stover"? You mean like a nylon lock nut? Another question, on the subject of track bars, how do you figure out what length to adjust it to? That is the step I'm on with my MJ. Help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 18, 2007 Author Share Posted March 18, 2007 What's a "stover"? You mean like a nylon lock nut? Another question, on the subject of track bars, how do you figure out what length to adjust it to? That is the step I'm on with my MJ. Help would be appreciated. Stover nut according to Google images: Rusty's says to center the axle under the vehicle, put the bolt through the sleeve in the bushing and just move the bar up to where the tie rod end installs. Then you adjust it till it looks right. I figure'd it'd be like 35.4" or something, but it's just an eye-it-up thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 A stover is a nut that the top is oval. It mechanically locks itself via friction. You can find them in high vibration areas where there is not clearance to run a castle nut. If you ever see a highsteer kit for a D44 - the nuts on the studs will be stovers. Likewise, the nuts that hold the spindle to the knuckle on a D44 are stovers. I can't think of any uses that you'd see on a stock truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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