flint54 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Reference this old water pump thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28461-hesco-quality/, how I wish my current issue was 'only' the water pump! What was just a chirp (and which I mistook for a belt driven device) is now a loud steady "tock-tock-tock" from within the motor when running (briefly) with the serpentine belt removed. Even though this motor has been very well cared for and has only 95K miles, I guess stuff just happens sometimes. My suspicion is a rod bearing on #1 as the noise is very centered and very forward, and seems loudest right behind the harmonic balancer. Before I drop the pan to check it specifically, I'm interested in any alternate thoughts, or "while I'm in there" suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Pull the timing cover to inspect the timing chain and gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Good call, plus I will replace the harmonic balancer before it comes apart. The rubber looks marginal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Go for the HB first. Easy to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Looks like Crusier54 wins the prize on this one. The problem is in fact the HB: and apparently dumba$$ me missed this problem for quite a while, even though I knew of it's possibility. Notice the shiny spot where the belt has rubbed against the timing chain cover. There's also a rather deep groove in the cover, and I'll probably have to replace it as well. Sure beats digging deep into the motor though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 So the HB rubbing against the timing cover grooved it out? Is the H20 pump okay then? Which HB are you going with, a new OEM or after market? If OEM, be sure to remove the oil slinger inside the timing cover or it won't go all the way on. Newer Mopar Harmonic Balancers Not the Same As Older Units When your 4.0L needs a replacement crank damper due to separation if you get a factory replacement (Mopar) one at the dealer you will find that it won't go on the crank all the way. The old part number (33002920) supercedes to the one (33002920AC) used on 2001 and newer 4.0L's. To use this new damper on 87-00 4.0L's you will have to remove the oil slinger (eliminated on 2001 4.0L's) on the crank timing chain gear which requires removing the timing cover. The only direct replacement ones are after market at places like Pep Boys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 The rubber on the harmonic balancer I installed looks that bad, but it is solid. Yikes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 RE: "When your 4.0L needs a replacement crank damper due to separation if you get a factory replacement (Mopar) one at the dealer you will find that it won't go on the crank all the way. The old part number (33002920) supercedes to the one (33002920AC) used on 2001 and newer 4.0L's. To use this new damper on 87-00 4.0L's you will have to remove the oil slinger (eliminated on 2001 4.0L's) on the crank timing chain gear which requires removing the timing cover" Well that's just dandy news. <G> I was planning to use OEM, and as soon as I can get theHB off I'll know how bad the cover is. If I get lucky, the cover will be acceptable as-is. I don't usually get lucky. IF the cover is okay, then I may use aftermarket HB. My luck right now is that I cannot even thread bolts into the three holes for pulling. I've cleaned them with solvent and brush, but bolts will not thread in. Who knows what thread this is, so I can chase with correct tap? . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Update: 1) the three hole threads are 5/16"-18 and cleaned up nicely 2) if puller bolts are threaded in too far it damages the seal flange (see image) 3) the TC cover is not coming off, it's not bad enough (opinion) (see image) 4) will replace crank seal and install Dorman HB (hope the 1st one fits) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 All is done, all is well. The Dorman HB snugged up nicely. The crank seal was a royal PITA to remove (FSM describes a special tool) but the new one went in well. The old HB was clearly offset, even though there was no freeplay between the two parts. It felt solid. With the new HB installed, there is nearly 1/8" gap between TC cover and HB. If your gap is significantly less, could be a problem about to happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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