Dracokain Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 So I recently changed out my transmission mount and fixed the rattling noise I was hearing. Now when I accelerate there is a vibration coming from the engine somewhere and it vibrates like a wave, the higher the RPMS the faster the vibration, it goes in a high low pattern, I can hear it when I'm idling but at that point it is constant. I don't think I managed to mess anything up when I changed the mount out but I might just be crazy. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Crawl under, remove the inspection plate from the bottom of the bell housing, and check the flexplate for cracks by rotating it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Will do! Thanks for the info. I will try to get out and check that tomorrow because the biting gnat things are killing me tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 I feel really dumb right now but I can't seem to find the inspection plate. I am kind of dumb when it comes to this so all the help I can get would be good. I tried to look it up somewhere online and I wasnt able to find anything on how to do this. Also I'm not sure if letting it sit for a few days changed anything but I drive it up the road to check the noise and now all I can hear is a rattling coming from the front of the engine, it isnt causing vibration but I still sounds like it gets faster with RPM's, I also was able to tighten my crossmember and the transmission mount this morning because that was the only thing I did to the comanche before I started hearing the noise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbear Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Well, apparently some of my posts didn't migrate to the new board. But the inspection plate is the plate covering everything around the starter in this picture. You have to drop the starter to get it completely off. That's going to take a special inverted torx looking 12 point socket, if the bolts are original, and one of them is a real joy to try to get to. The plate is held on by four bolts, I think, not sure, since my inspection plate came in the bed of the truck: so I had to get some bolts to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Well, apparently some of my posts didn't migrate to the new board. But the inspection plate is the plate covering everything around the starter in this picture. You have to drop the starter to get it completely off. That's going to take a special inverted torx looking 12 point socket, if the bolts are original, and one of them is a real joy to try to get to. The plate is held on by four bolts, I think, not sure, since my inspection plate came in the bed of the truck: so I had to get some bolts to fit. That's a picture of the upper plate on the bell housing. The inspection plate is below this plate. To remove the lower plate there is no need to pull the starter. The inspection plate is held on my four bolts/nuts (two are M15 and two are M11), and it slides up to the upper plate and fits in a channel. Takes about 5-10 minutes to remove it. Here's a pic I found - the arrow points to it. EDIT: Thunderbear, looks like the upper plates look different between your pic and mine. My 91 is exactly like the pic on the bottom. Maybe they changed the design when the AW4 went to 23 spline? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 Thank you, I will try to see what I can in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 That's a picture of the upper plate on the bell housing. The inspection plate is below this plate. To remove the lower plate there is no need to pull the starter. The inspection plate is held on my four bolts/nuts (two are M15 and two are M11), and it slides up to the upper plate and fits in a channel. Takes about 5-10 minutes to remove it. Here's a pic I found - the arrow points to it. EDIT: Thunderbear, looks like the upper plates look different between your pic and mine. My 91 is exactly like the pic on the bottom. Maybe they changed the design when the AW4 went to 23 spline? And, it's a photo of a 4 cylinder. The OP has a 6 cylinder.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 I just checked the article I stole the pic from - it's from a 4.0 TJ, not a 4 cylinder. The TJ upper starter locator plate and lower inspection plate is shaped differently than that of an XJ, but similar. The point is the inspection plate comes off with four bolts w/o messing with the starter so you can check the flexplate for cracks and the flexplate bolts for tightness. http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=171577 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 Got down and dirty today and I was not about to find any problems with the flexplate. I was a little oily looking down there but other then that things seemed fine. I have to drive to work and back tomorrow and I will keep an ear open for anything unusual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Harmonic balancer may be roasty toasty.. and or now that trans sits higher you may have some Ujoint issues that have now showed their ugly head. How are your motor mounts? trans is higher now and engine may be too low. New engine mounts will bring angles all back into spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 I was thinking it was something that had to do with the trans mount since that was the only thing that changed. I will try to go out and check the engine mounts this afternoon, its not as bad as it was since I tightened up the cross member bolts. It sounds like a hollow rattling but it still goes with the RPM's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 So I think I found the problem, There are the 2 wires that run down the radiator and when I turn the radiator fan I can hear rubbing at one certain point. That would explain the hollow metal sound that changes with the rpms if the fan is rubbing it at a certain point. It looks like the motor mounts do need to be replaced because they look pretty sad and deflated. Hopefully by changing them out it makes the fan stop rubbing on that wire and then problem solved :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbear Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 I just checked the article I stole the pic from - it's from a 4.0 TJ, not a 4 cylinder. The TJ upper starter locator plate and lower inspection plate is shaped differently than that of an XJ, but similar. The point is the inspection plate comes off with four bolts w/o messing with the starter so you can check the flexplate for cracks and the flexplate bolts for tightness. http://www.greatlake...ad.php?t=171577 Nice. Must have missed that somewhere. Good to know for my TJ, too, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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