Dead Battery

[jimoshel]

The battery is 2 years old. When a carbon pile load is applied, 400 Amps for 30 seconds the voltage does not drop below 10 VDC. With the battery hooked up and the ign switch, and all accessories off there is a 4-5 ma current draw. So why does the battery go dead when left over night? I mean completely dead, Not even enough to click the relay.

:dunno: :???:

[danbyrambler]

FAST & DIRTY - - - Switch with another vehicle if you can - - - If same thing with dif battery, then it's the car/truck - - - if the other vehicle won't start next morning it's new battery time - - - Should be pointed in right direction after an overnight - - - - - - - - On the other hand: Colorado has long been a hotbed of Space Alien activity - - A hidden device could be stealing energy when the moon rises

:idea:

[xjrev10]

FAST & DIRTY - - - Switch with another vehicle if you can - - - If same thing with dif battery, then it's the car/truck - - - if the other vehicle won't start next morning it's new battery time - - - Should be pointed in right direction after an overnight - - - - - - - - On the other hand: Colorado has long been a hotbed of Space Alien activity - - A hidden device could be stealing energy when the moon rises

:idea:

You from Colorado? Didn't they just legalize dope? Chill out brother.

[HOrnbrod]

The battery is 2 years old. When a carbon pile load is applied, 400 Amps for 30 seconds the voltage does not drop below 10 VDC. With the battery hooked up and the ign switch, and all accessories off there is a 4-5 ma current draw. So why does the battery go dead when left over night? I mean completely dead, Not even enough to click the relay.

:dunno: :???:

 

I had a battery do exactly that Jim, it was about three years old. After I verified there was no parasidic amp draw, I brought it to Autismzone and they load tested it - checked satisfactory. But overnight it would go stone cold dead every time. I brought it to our local GM dealer, and they had a modern tester that did a lot more than load test. One was a timed test that lasted about 30 minutes. It tested bad. Most dealers have these high-tech testers, and they will check it for free. Worth a shot.

[Comanche_Fanatic]

4-5 ma current draw.

 

Check parastic load again

[jimoshel]

Got tired of disconnecting the battery every night so yesterday decided to do something about it. First step , isolate the circuit. Removed all wires (5) from the bat input post on the start relay. testing each one narrowed it down to the one with 4 laeds going to one eye terminal. Checked the power distribution diagram in the FSM showed that the headlights, park lights, chime module, hazard flasher and dom,e lights were involved. Pulled fuses narrowed it to the dome light. Couldn't remember when the last time I ever used the dome light so just left the fuse out. Problem solved. HAH! Walk around check out revealed the left front park wasn't working. Checked bulb, cleaned socket. Now the right front parking quit. To shorten a long, and frustrating story as fast as i fixed something, something else went out. Noon today I got totally royally p*ssed. Started at the rear of the truck. Removed every bulb and disconnected every connector I could find and removed all ground ties. Cleaned everything. Put everything back together. There are 1,235 ground points, 1,057 connectors and innumerable other components in the wiring of a MJ. I separated and cleaned every *%#*@* of them. I don't know which one was the culprit although suspect there was more than one. I now have perfectly working lights all around, except for the dome. Not sure what the problem is with the dome. It would draw enough juice to kill the battery but not pop the 10 amp fuse. Going out tomorrow and POR'ing every ground and connecter I cleaned today. When I finish swapping out the interior pieces then i will check out the dome wiring. Till then, it's running and I'm happy. :thumbsup: :banana: