mvusse Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Looking at available real estate on my D60 which is extremely limited on the driver side, spring spacing, and availability of aftermarket brackets and trusses, I've been brainstorming about how to install it. 4 link is going to be just about impossible without trussing the axle and sticking everything including spring seats on top of the truss. This will add hugely to my lift. If I ignore the driver side upper link which is the main problem I can keep my D60 full width, probably get the springs in the right place, possibly space the lower control arms a little wider (may need to go to some kind of joints on them instead of rubber bushings) and keep the current lift about the same. This would be a 3 link. I do not have long arms, do not (yet) want long arms. What are your thoughts about running a front 3 link with panhard bar similar to the stock 4 link, but with the driver side upper control arm removed? Discuss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Sir, get with Exxon Valdez Jeep, he's got a full width 60 on his XJ that I believe will end up under his MJ soon... Dylan will see this I'm sure,,,,and I just want to remind him that he owes me some beer...for what you might ask, no particular reason, I just think that he does. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 It should work fine with 3 links,just make sure the upper link is built strong enough to handle the extra load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 What year 60 are you dealing with? I'm running an '89 F350 Dana 60HP under my Comanche with a 3-link and have plenty of room, even with the Chevy 350 and raising everything atleast an inch. If you're thinking of using stock arms and a stock type upper bushing, don't. Those arms will twist in no time with the weight of the 60 and that upper bushing will get destroyed. If you want to run a 3 link + panhard then look at all hard joints in the control arms as rubber and poly joints won't last. You can see what I did on my axle with the truss over the pumpkin in my build thread (link in sig). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 It's an 89 high pinion king pin out of a F350. Driver side axle tube between pumpkin and inner C is only 2 5/8" long. I currently have Rock Krawler adjustable upper control arms using a johnny joint on top and the stock bushing on the axle. Was planning to reuse one of them, but using a johnny joint on the axle end as well. My adjustable lower control arms use poly bushings on both ends and will need replaced. Double sheer track bar using a heim joint on top and poly on the axle end I think I should be able to reuse also. Don't think I'm going to worry about a sway bar until I have my steering all finalized so I can see if and where I can mount brackets for it. The upper control arm axle bracket will probably like the one I just had welded on my D30. Solid 1/2" bracket with two 1/4" gussets. 3 link should have no problem with room, limited real estate becomes a problem if I want to retain a 4 link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timeless Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 I'm not sure if I fully understand what the problem is, but if you're considering doing the short arm three link using a single factory upper control arm mount, don't. It will be only a matter of time before you rip the entire UCA mount right off of the unibody. 3 linking with the upper on the passenger side is fine as long as the axle side and frame side mounts are solid. You'll have to be wary of clearance with your exhaust. Why don't you want long arms? Are you trying to run tons on near stock geometry? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 Some of the trails I do are steep. Most long armed Jeeps are scared of those trails because their front suspension unloads. My short arms don't do that, and yet they flex as well as most of those long arms, being limited by my shocks (10" travel front, 14" rear). It works, why change it. I have never seen a 3 link done on a TJ/XJ/MJ/ZJ using short arms. Didn't (and still don't) know why that is. Why would I need to be wary of the exhaust? Upper control arm on passenger side, exhaust on driver side. Yes, the front pipe does cross over to the passenger side in line with the upper control arm bracket, but it turns toward the rear of the truck long before it comes anywhere near close to it. So I will have to replace/strengthen/brace the frame side upper control arm mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 A properly set up 3-link will not unload. All radius arm long arms unload on steep inclines, which is the most common long arm system out there. This is mainly caused by the lack of frame side separation (radius arms have the same characteristics as a 3- or 4-link with no vertical separation at the frame). If you do plan on running everything on the drivers side then you have two real options, both of which will work perfect. You can run a truss to hug the leaf spring mount and just slap a coil mount on that or you can cut back the center section that goes over the tube some. I chose to cut down the tube and haven't had a single issue. I did weld the center section to the tube though where it was cut. The exhaust issue was more for if you go long arm. It can be done easily still with the upper arm on the passenger side, you just need to put it closer to the frame. I'm running the same exact front axle and have my upper arm on the drivers side. I have Ballistic Fabrication joints on all ends with the 5/8" bolt hole upgrade and run 2" wall x 0.25" OD DOM for both the upper and lower arms. Running heims on both ends of the panhard bar and 12" travel Bilstein shocks. I can easily max out the shocks with 4" of uptravel and 8" down. If you stay with stock length arms, you are going to have a horrible pinion dive as you flex due to the different arcs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timeless Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Garvin has offered some sound advice. Radius arms are notorious for unloading on inclines. And yes, my comment about the exhaust was intended if you built the suspension...erm...less stockish. Running short arms and a D60 doesn't really make sense to me. Run a properly designed 3 link and you'll never want to look at short arms again. I guess in a nut shell, do it right and do it once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 I'm of the belief if it works, don't mess with it, related to don't fix what ain't broke. Maybe long arms will come in the future, but I'm guessing I will link the rear axle before doing major mods to the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Just keep in mind that it works now because the Dana 30 actually twists some, the Dana 60 does not twist at all so you will notice a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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