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regear, 3.07 - 3.55, reshim necessary?


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:yeah that:

ordering my rear gears soon to get them equal

I'm only going to 3.55 from 3.07, do ya think i need to reshim?

What axle do you have? If it's a Dana 35, the carrier break is 3.31 and lower, and 3.55 and higher (numerically) -- meaning you will need a new carrier. If you have a Dana 44 you're okay, because the break is 3.73 and lower, and 3.92 and higher.

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so how hard is it to re shim gears? I need to regear my D30 from 3.07 to 3.55 or swap the entire axle out... but my current axle appears to be in better shape. so i have not figured out what rout i want to go..

It's not hard, and when changing ratios it's just part of the install process anyway so calling it "re"shimming isn't correct. When you regear, you replace both the pinion gear and the ring gear. On the Dana 30, the break is when going from 3.54 to 3.73 so you're not going to need a new carrier. But the new pinion gear has to be installed at the correct depth, so that's one set of shims. And you need (ideally) a special jig to set the pinion depth, although there should be a depth code stamped into the nose of the gear and you can guessimate the required shim thickness based on that. Once the pinion is at the correct depth you set the backlash, which is done by adding, removing, and shifting shims from one side of the carrier to the other until you get a proper wear pattern and backlash within spec.

 

Unless you know what you're doing inside the pumpkin, it's really a lot easier to swap the entire axle.

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so how hard is it to re shim gears? I need to regear my D30 from 3.07 to 3.55 or swap the entire axle out... but my current axle appears to be in better shape. so i have not figured out what rout i want to go..

It's not hard, and when changing ratios it's just part of the install process anyway so calling it "re"shimming isn't correct. When you regear, you replace both the pinion gear and the ring gear. On the Dana 30, the break is when going from 3.54 to 3.73 so you're not going to need a new carrier. But the new pinion gear has to be installed at the correct depth, so that's one set of shims. And you need (ideally) a special jig to set the pinion depth, although there should be a depth code stamped into the nose of the gear and you can guessimate the required shim thickness based on that. Once the pinion is at the correct depth you set the backlash, which is done by adding, removing, and shifting shims from one side of the carrier to the other until you get a proper wear pattern and backlash within spec.

 

Unless you know what you're doing inside the pumpkin, it's really a lot easier to swap the entire axle.

 

i know a axle swap would be easier and i may end up going that rout any way despite how i feel about the donor axle but, would it be something i can learn on one of my extra axles with the service manual? because at $400 per axle for labor only... I would like to know how to do it my self if i can.

 

has anyone posted anything like this in the D.I.Y.?

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