H4's or HIDs?

[skidoo_j]

Received my Heavy duty High temp h4 plugs today. Plan to have my wire harness all soldered up w/ 12 ga wire by tomorrow eve to give a stock vs wire harness vs h4 100w in ipf photos...

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.headlightplugs.com/H4.ht.html

[skidoo_j]

So here's the side by sides with the camera in manual mode. I did however point the lens in the exact same spot for high and low beam. The standard bulb is a sylvania sealed bulb nothing special and the H4 bulb is a cheapy 90/100w off ebay for 6 dollars for both bulbs in an ipf housing. Pictures are of only one bulb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Low Beam Sylvania Bulbs Stock wiring:

 

 

 

Low Beam Sylvania Bulbs New Harness with Relays(same bulb as above, I couldn't believe the difference ):

 

 

Low Beam IPF housing, $5 Bulb with Harness: 

 

 

 

High Beam Sylvania Bulb Stock Wiring :

 

 

High Beam Sylvania Bulb Harness 

 

 

High Beam IPF housing $5 bulb w/ harness: 

 

[cruiser54]

Great job!! And I'll say this. In real life, the difference with and without the harness on stock lamps is more noticeable than in the photos.

[skidoo_j]

Great job!! And I'll say this. In real life, the difference with and without the harness on stock lamps is more noticeable than in the photos.

 

 

These were taken with the truck off, as it exaggerated it a bit more for the picture. I admit I was relatively surprised with the difference. I do hope that this may also eliminate my partial illuminated dash turn indicator, I imagine i'll have to replace those plug in housings to cure that...

 

When I measured voltage on the passenger stock plug with the drivers side light connected and on I was getting 10.89V, when at the same time across the battery posts I had 12.87V. When disconnecting the drivers bulb passenger plug voltage went up to 11.9V. Surprisingly with the motor not running I had almost a volt of loss through the stock harness (when it was running and i took this measurement it was a 1/2 volt different).

 

The wire loom I made used h4 ends from http://www.headlightplugs.com/H4.ht.html that had 12ga leads and high temp. I then ran a 12ga wire to each light from the relay rather than looping off. My relays are mounted in the "relay center" as I scrapped a few stock relays and mounts on my last trip to the jy, It makes it look a bit more factory. With my new harness and one bulb connected the other plug reads exactly the same as the battery. I really doubt there would be in voltage drop in 12ga wire. I'll get the passenger side IPF installed completely today and aim the light. Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my second housing, backorder through 4wd.com.

[cody4359]

Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my second housing, backorder through 4wd.com.

 

 

bummer, that would irritate me. so you saying you put the relays in the power distribution center box?

[cruiser54]

Great job!! And I'll say this. In real life, the difference with and without the harness on stock lamps is more noticeable than in the photos.

 

 

These were taken with the truck off, as it exaggerated it a bit more for the picture. I admit I was relatively surprised with the difference. I do hope that this may also eliminate my partial illuminated dash turn indicator, I imagine i'll have to replace those plug in housings to cure that...

 

When I measured voltage on the passenger stock plug with the drivers side light connected and on I was getting 10.89V, when at the same time across the battery posts I had 12.87V. When disconnecting the drivers bulb passenger plug voltage went up to 11.9V. Surprisingly with the motor not running I had almost a volt of loss through the stock harness (when it was running and i took this measurement it was a 1/2 volt different).

 

The wire loom I made used h4 ends from http://www.headlightplugs.com/H4.ht.html that had 12ga leads and high temp. I then ran a 12ga wire to each light from the relay rather than looping off. My relays are mounted in the "relay center" as I scrapped a few stock relays and mounts on my last trip to the jy, It makes it look a bit more factory. With my new harness and one bulb connected the other plug reads exactly the same as the battery. I really doubt there would be in voltage drop in 12ga wire. I'll get the passenger side IPF installed completely today and aim the light. Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my second housing, backorder through 4wd.com.

 

Ever done this mod?

 

Improving the Instrument Panel Ground

 

The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it.

 

This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.

 

The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.

 

Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal.

 

Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.

 

Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.

 

**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**

 

 

Revised 11-29-2011

[skidoo_j]

Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my second housing, backorder through 4wd.com.

 

 

bummer, that would irritate me. so you saying you put the relays in the power distribution center box?

 

 

They're in the same row that the factory ones are in under that plastic cover that reads "relay center" it's just that metal frame though. Nothing special other then its not screwed into the fender.

[cody4359]

was just curiouse. thinking of doing this down the road but i don't want to clutter the engine bay with more wires ran all over, sounds like a good idea

[cruiser54]

There will be no clutter in the engine bay. Quit worrying and just do it.

[cody4359]

ahh hell i gotta get the floors done before i worry about that lol did manage to get distracted today and make some #4 guage battery cables before working on the floor.

[skidoo_j]

was just curiouse. thinking of doing this down the road but i don't want to clutter the engine bay with more wires ran all over, sounds like a good idea

 

 

 

Just take your time and you can make it look like it belongs. It does make a pretty significant difference by just upgrading the harness. converting to the H4 housing and blubs was expensive as a whole for me, that's why I ended up buying cheap bulbs off ebay.

 

 

The putco harness runs about 40 and the cheap housings off ebay are 40 for a set.

 

I however made my own harness, about $12 in wire, 25 for high heat 12ga plugs, 3-4dollars worth of heat shrink, and 3-4 dollars worth of the wire cover. And solder. my relays and relay holders were from a jy pull... I'd but a round $50 on my homemade heavy duty harness.

 

if you used 14 gauge wire and the high heat plugs by dorman ($11 autozone) it would probably be about half of what i paid.

 

I bought IPF housings "better light spread", "thicker glass" vs the ebay ( i put these in "" because i have no personal comparison. I based my purchase off another CC thread) at $80

 

then $5 for some 100/90w ebay bulbs.

 

 

 

 

 

I have yet to do cruiser54's other electrical mod under the dash for the ground. I plan to do it and also redo the ones behind the tail lights when i clean the plugs.