LarryH88bt Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 My brakes need to be bled but I do not want to do the height valve process. I never got it right so I want to bypass it. I do have the procedure but... The first pic has the hard line going out to the left then down to the height valve. That will be plugged in the engine bay, at least I think that's the one on the bottom of the prop valve at the master cylinder, I didn't trace it. The second pic has the A B C couplings. Does box B need a new coupling/fitting or can I simply plug the hard line side from the height valve? It's a pretty easy bypass, one line into B then to A then down to C on the axle to both drums. I want to leave everything in place just because. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchecravin Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 I'm in the process of the same thing but I'm re-routing mine to eliminate the coupler up top.....the best way is to cap it at that coupler and in the valve under the MC. typically the correct way would be to run new lines and make the path with no couplers but if is the route you choose(i would do it too if my lines werent rusted) then cap it, otherwise you have all that extra space to have leaks and air pockets and bad brake pressure hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH88bt Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Most of these lines are new, only a few years old, had a jeep specialist fix it up. After a few days of thinking I may just try the bleed procedure for the height valve and see what happens. Can't decide now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 I took the valve off, rerouted the line directly to the axle (after moving the mount point down the tab the level sensor was on) and capped both ends of the return line and plugged the valve by the master. I also changed the wheel cylinders for ones from an AMC Eagle (larger diameter) and I'll be adding an in-line adjustable pressure valve from Summit to stop lockup (also did the XJ double booster) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 What size tires are you running? And do you think it is even going to be possible to lock up the rears? I just found out I have absolutely no back brakes in my 88 mj, it explains why it stops like crap. Anyway, I am going to remove the level deal and anything else not really needed back there and cap it like your doing and them Do the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 I have 33/9.50/15s and I have locked them up in the rain at 50-70 mph and it wasn't fun! (fortunately I have lots of practice over the years at doing bootleg Uturns so I knew how to handle it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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