POR-15 Quart or Gallon?

[Automan2164]

Just wanted to ask a quick question of those whom have used the stuff. This weekend is a big swap meet by me, and I will have the opportunity to pick up some POR-15 straight from the vendor. Should be as cheap as I can get it, and no shipping. My only concern is the amount. I have been told that a little goes a long way. I have also been told that once you open up the can, it's like a ticking clock. Something about how when you introduce it to air when you open it up, it sort of starts to turn, even after you put the lid back on.

 

I have plans to do the frame, underbody, engine compartment, floors, inner fenders, bed underside... Etc on the Farmer, and will most likely need a good amount of it. I also imagine that I won't be able to sit down all in one shot with it either, probably do it in stages.

 

So... For those of you whom have used it, what do you think? I know it's cheaper to get by the gallon, but if might end up with a gallon of bad news, maybe it would be better to get the quarts, and work out of them for each stage? Just looking online, I can see that from Summit at least, a quart is about $50, and a gallon about $150. So you save $50 using the gallon.

 

I also wanted to ask about how far a quart or gallon of the stuff goes... What have you guys been able to cover with a quart or gallon?

 

Many thanks.

Rob :cheers:

[Sir Sam]

From what I have heard it keeps fine as long as you close up the lid with a plastic bag in place.

 

I would say get the gallon depending on price......might make more sense to get a couple of quarts depending directly on the price.

 

 

Actually come to think about it......depending on the price savings might you be interested in picking me up some and shipping it my way?

 

Hmmmmm, any interest in getting some sound deadening material.....I have quite a bit of the quiet car spray/roll on stuff if you want to trade a bit......

[Automan2164]

From what I have heard it keeps fine as long as you close up the lid with a plastic bag in place.

 

I would say get the gallon depending on price......might make more sense to get a couple of quarts depending directly on the price.

 

 

Actually come to think about it......depending on the price savings might you be interested in picking me up some and shipping it my way?

 

Hmmmmm, any interest in getting some sound deadening material.....I have quite a bit of the quiet car spray/roll on stuff if you want to trade a bit......

 

You mean draping a bag across the surface of the paint and then closing the lid on it?

 

As for the trade... I would be interested, but I honestly can't rely on myself to ship anything right now. I still have a package for Ben and Jim to ship out in my ZJ that have yet to make it to the post office. Plus, I don't think the discount would be enough to negate shipping, just a hair less, and I don't have to get it shipped.

 

Rob

[87Warrior]

I used a quart to do the MJ 'frame rails' and had to order another quart. To do the floor or underside of the bed, you will need more than a quart.

 

It does keep pretty good. I used a chunk of heavy duty trash bag between the lid and container. The plastic bag is to help you remove the lid later on, not necessarily to preserve the product. POR is not as 'needy' as some folks indicate, it's just paint.

[87Warrior]

I used a quart to do the MJ 'frame rails' and had to order another quart. To do the floor or underside of the bed, you will need more than a quart.

 

It does keep pretty good. I used a chunk of heavy duty trash bag between the lid and container. The plastic bag is to help you remove the lid later on, not necessarily to preserve the product. POR is not as 'needy' as some folks indicate, it's just paint.

[Automan2164]

I used a quart to do the MJ 'frame rails' and had to order another quart. To do the floor or underside of the bed, you will need more than a quart.

 

It does keep pretty good. I used a chunk of heavy duty trash bag between the lid and container. The plastic bag is to help you remove the lid later on, not necessarily to preserve the product. POR is not as 'needy' as some folks indicate, it's just paint.

 

That was basically what I was worried about, whether or not I had to worry about it turning once I opened it up. I just kind of wondered if I would be chancing it getting a gallon over 4 single quarts. Sounds like I am getting the gallon, as well as all their recommended pretreatment products at the same time.

 

Many thanks. :cheers:

Rob

[89eliminator]

there is a brand there, that i got, that is cheaper than Por-15. Its what i used on the 92. the name escapes me for some reason though...i wanna say it was called rust shield or something like that. but i went to both vendors, and both the pint and quart (and everything else for that matter) was cheaper than the Por-15 guy.

[Comanche County]

Por-15 is a complete rip off. Your preparation is key to rust prevention, not the infomercial quality POR15 you get at the local hardware store. Its says plainly on their label, "paint on top of rust".....complete BS! That company rips people off daily. Do not spend a 150$ a gallon on this crap, its the paint equivalent of Kim Kardashian's marriage vows. Just like any paint, it will not last if you do not give the surface metal a sharp jagged surface for it to adhere to, that means you must blast the surface of the metal for it to stick. Paint adheres physically not chemically to the metal. Forget etching primer, that's a rip off also. The POR company is completely full of $#!& when it comes to the application of that paint.

 

Seriously, this crap gets more attention than it deserves. It will flake off as easily as spray bombed Rustoleum, which is actually better than POR15. Paint is and will always be secondary to your prep of the surface it is applied to.

 

Although, I'm not NACE certified, I previously filled a management position responsible for coating underground water transmission pipes that were intended to last for 100 years, before you spend big money on a sham like this, talk to at least a NACE level 1-3 certified person and get their advice, its the best advice I can give anyone planning to coat any metal.

 

You'll be better off wire wheeling and spraying any cheapo paint than using that stuff. Don't spend a dime on it.

[Automan2164]

 

$180 total.

 

Rob :cheers:

[terrawombat]

I always put a sheet of plastic food wrap under the top before I hammer it down. I also have heard that keeping it in the fridge will make it last longer (moisture control).

[Sir Sam]

I always put a sheet of plastic food wrap under the top before I hammer it down. I also have heard that keeping it in the fridge will make it last longer (moisture control).

 

My fridge is more moist than my house.

[terrawombat]

but it is a controlled consistent humidity rather than a constant fluctuation

 

Although you live at 233098 ft altitude so you probably have less problems with massive swings in humidity.

[Sir Sam]

but it is a controlled consistent humidity rather than a constant fluctuation

 

Although you live at 233098 ft altitude so you probably have less problems with massive swings in humidity.

 

My absolute humidity is a nice constant 20%.

[terrawombat]

Lucky you. I can go from "my skin is cracked and bleeding" to "I feel like I'm in a sauna" in the same week.

[Sir Sam]

Lucky you. I can go from "my skin is cracked and bleeding" to "I feel like I'm in a sauna" in the same week.

 

I do that all the time when I get in a sauna.