Heat Vacuum Actuator

[CaffeineTripp]

Like a lot of us, as it seems, the heat vacuum actuator that's just before the firewall which allows hot coolant to travel to the heater core is broken/clogged with junk/just plain old.

Aside from removing it as I don't have the funds necessary for more coolant and longer cooling lines, just to make sure that there's enough wiggle room for the movement of the engine, has anyone figured out a way to keep the plunger in the open position for the time being?

I suppose zip-tying the actuator arm might be doable, but who knows how long that will last.

Eventually, I'm just going to remove the entire thing and not worry about the longer warm up times, not that it would take that long anyway.

 

[cruiser54]

Wire it open. Keep warm.

[COMJNUT]

there is a plastic X that is out there that takes the place of that entire valve assembly, don't know what years, havent needed to research it, I just have seen it.

[Harley]

I got rid of mine the other day and didn't need longer lines and also didn't lose hardly any coolant.

[CaffeineTripp]

Heater Control Valve Fix

 

Cost:

$9.70 for on-sale antifreeze

 

Time Required:

45 Minutes

 

Tools:

Flathead screwdriver

Needle nose vice grip x2

 

Equipment:

Upper Heater Hose/PVC Piping

Worm Clamps

Coolant, 50/50 Antifreeze

Drain bucket

Rags

 

Step 1:

Drain 1 quart of antifreeze from the cooling system via the drain C#*@ at the bottom of the radiator.

 

Step 2:

Un-clip the 4WD vacuum actuator. Clamp the coolant hoses leading to the heater control valve, then remove the hoses from the heater control valve. Place a drain bucket underneath the firewall to catch coolant that will drain out of the heater core and heater hoses.

 

Step 3:

Remove the heater control valve from the heater core hoses.

 

 

Step 4:

Attach the heater hose that runs from near the thermostat housing to the top heater core line. Attach the heater hose that runs from the intake manifold to the bottom heater core line.

As you can see, my heater hose that ran from the intake manifold was too short so I had to connect a 45* piece of plastic running from the chunk of heater hose on the bottom of the heater core line to the heater hose. Nearly long enough, but not quite.

 

Step 5:

Add coolant to the radiator, start the engine and let run for 15 minutes to burp the cooling system of air.

 

Enjoy having heat when you want it instead of being frigid during the winter!

 

Suggestions:

I didn't have the money to pick up a fail safe thermostat or a gasket that matched, let alone the time to completely flush the cooling system, but it is something that could be done while you're in there fooling around with the heater control valve.

[specialkeay]

So just to double check you have complety elimenated the over flow resvior. And also do you need to plug that vacuum hose that went to the heater valve?

[cruiser54]

This has nothing to do with the coolant reservoir. Just eliminate the heater control valve.

[specialkeay]

Mine looks differnt than his I guess, I have an 89, 4.0. I have elimenated the heater core actuator but my coolant lines run differnt then his, both mine run from the thermostat area, and one from the thermostat. And were mine enters the heater core is a three way were one line goes to the overflow resivior. :help: I'm just desperate for heat I've open up another post on it if you have anything for me.

[CaffeineTripp]

Have you given changing the thermostat a shot, flushing the heater core? What's the problem that you're having?

Did not have to plug that vacuum line at all. Blows 'hot-ish' heat, probably needs a flush of the heater core. Works on all the settings; panel, heat, bi level, floor, etc.

[specialkeay]

Ya I did all that, I have a thread on it, its called "still no heat"