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Pinion Nut Torque


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I replaced my leaking pinion seal today. I'm not sure the exact spec, but the nut on there didn't seem very tight. I got out my 3/4" ratchet, put the 1 1/8" socket on, and expected a struggle but was surprised when the nut turned right off without much effort. Now, granted, it was a 3/4" ratchet so I had plenty of leverage on the long handle, but still I expected some initial torque to have to break with some effort. And then the yoke slid right off by hand.

 

Installing the new yoke and seal was much more difficult than removal; I couldn't push the yoke on the splines really at all, and had to tap it in (ok, pound) with a socket deep enough to get the new nut on and tighten it the rest of the way. Is this normal? I tightened until it seemed tight (and I had no prior reference for feel), and at that point I checked and there was no fore/aft play left. What would the effects of a loose pinion nut be on a D44? If I overtightened, what problems would that cause? I left the rear in the air and everything turned nicely by hand, and then in gear running in 1st, and that seemed OK so I followed up with a test drive and it seemed fine, and no leaks!

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dana 30

pinion nut torque is 200-220 ft lbs.

pinion bearing pre-load 12-15 inch lbs new

6-8 inch lbs used

 

dana 44

pinion nut torque 140 ft lb min. (it has a crush sleeve so i believe youll want to tighten until proper pinion bearing preload)

pinion bearing preload 14-19 inch lbs new

6-8 inch lbs used

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the nut on there didn't seem very tight

the nut turned right off without much effort

the yoke slid right off by hand

What would the effects of a loose pinion nut be on a D44? If I overtightened, what problems would that cause?

 

Sounds like the yoke could have had a little play on the pinion, should have needed a puller to get it off. That is the reason the new one went on with difficulty, the splines were probably worn.

 

Pinion bearing preload

Too loose-bad, Pinion could walk around on the ring gear.

Too tight and your pinion bearing bearings burn up-IMHO bad, but not as bad.

I know it is after the fact, but you should have marked the pinion nut and reinstalled with the same amount of turns and maybe just a tad more. Best way I know of without pulling the axle, carrier, pinion and redoing the crush sleeve.

It's all together, suggest you just keep an eye on it for a while, make sure the pinion bearings aren't too tight and getting hot.

Quote: You said it turns fine all the end play is gone. Then I think you should be OK, like I said keep an eye on it for a while. If it don't burn up in a thousand miles it is probably good for the long haul.

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Drive it till it breaks, sounds like a plan to me!

 

dana 44

pinion nut torque 140 ft lb min. (it has a crush sleeve so i believe youll want to tighten until proper pinion bearing preload)

 

I was under the impression that the D44 used some kind of preload shims to set the bearing preload, and that the pinion nut was only to secure the yoke?

 

Sounds like the yoke could have had a little play on the pinion, should have needed a puller to get it off. That is the reason the new one went on with difficulty, the splines were probably worn.

 

Not only did it come off easily, but it went back on easily too. I put it back on and off several times as I was working to remove the seal, in order to plug the hole. I didn't have any trouble sliding it nearly all the way back in, and then back out.

 

Pinion bearing preload

Too loose-bad, Pinion could walk around on the ring gear.

 

Would I be able to notice this in any way, i.e. vibrations under certain conditions, or noise?

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I was under the impression that the D44 used some kind of preload shims to set the bearing preload, and that the pinion nut was only to secure the yoke?

 

This is true. Late 80's - early 90s XJ/MJ D44s used a shim washer(s), not a pinion crush sleeve as like the D35 c-clip.

 

Would I be able to notice this in any way, i.e. vibrations under certain conditions, or noise?

 

When I did mine the old and new pinion yokes came off pretty easily, just needed some light tapping initially. And I do have a slight whine between 35-55 MPH under acceleration only. I had this though before the yoke/seal change. Been told it could be caused by aftermarket (Yukon) gears and/or sometimes the "thick" R&P gears I used sometimes do this. May be BS, I don't know for sure.

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  • 6 years later...
1 hour ago, Joshestate said:

I just changed my yoke and it seems to have taken some horsepower from my wheels.  Like it's not accelerating as fast as it was...  will it do this because its wearing in the new yoke?

No. 

 

One will have nothing to do with the other. 

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