Bounty Hunter Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 What's everybody running for rear springs? I'm going SOA in the rear and am considering removing the thick overload leaf in favor of a full length leaf from another springset. Looking for more articulation and maybe a better ride, also be nice to give the main leaf a little more support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 I second the notion of adding a second main leaf to help supprt your original. I did it with great sucess! :D Make sure it's a main leaf, as doubling up on one of the others can actually hurt your efforts (based on my experience with the '88 ). I don't recommend removing the overload though, it helps combat spring-wrap. I haven't noticed any problems with uptravel what-so-ever. Your shock setup is far more likely to cause problems. I lose about an inch up and 2 down to my shocks (stock shocks with lower mounts sandwiched between leafs and axle). Actually, if I removed the stock flares for some aftermarkets I could probably gain even more upwards with the right shock setup. Jeep on! --Pete What's everybody running for rear springs? I'm going SOA in the rear and am considering removing the thick overload leaf in favor of a full length leaf from another springset. Looking for more articulation and maybe a better ride, also be nice to give the main leaf a little more support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted August 13, 2005 Author Share Posted August 13, 2005 9" rear end? Were you able to reuse the stock rear driveshaft? What's your ujoint angles? My rear shaft is a little short (about 2"-3") with the SOA and switching to the shorter pinion 8.25 axle. With the pinion and TC output parallel each ujoint angle appears to be 14º, hopefully it's acceptable. From my research, less than half the ujoint's max operating angle (30º for a 1310 serries) is preferred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 Well, considering that the truck used to be 2wd, I had to shorten it. This was a good thing, cause with the TJ t-case, SOA and 9inch, I doubt anything in the junkyard would be as perfect as just shortening the 2wd shaft. The Ujoint angles are far from perfect. I kinda just used the Bronco pads and widened them to fit the MJ spring location. I know, I know, that was pretty lazy of me. The Bronco had a Double Cardon joint and so my rear ujoint is at about 0* in relation to the driveshaft. This is NOT what it should be, but I have absolutely no vibrations. I think the key is to use new Ujoints. Old joints do not like to have their operating angles changed and most people seem to not take the opportunity to replace them when adding a lift so I'm guessing that's where the problems lie. Or it could be the shorter wheelbases of the XJ and YJ/TJs. A 5" lift changes their angles much more than the same lift on our MJs. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted August 13, 2005 Author Share Posted August 13, 2005 I could rotate the pinion up to near 0º which would give me less angle at the slipyoke ujoint, but that's not proper geometry for that type of shaft. Both angles are to be as nearly equal as possible to cancel out vibes. I also read that running a ujoint at 0º will burn it up prematurely as they need a slight bit of angle in order for the needle bearings to rotate. I'm sure yours will be fine being a little off from 0º, especially when the springs wrap up. Thanks for letting me know how yours was setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 15, 2005 Share Posted August 15, 2005 Mine is far from correct, but for whatever reason I got lucky and it works. Since you are welding them on and can put them where ever you want, it only makes sense to do it right. :D Right? I figured I was planning for the future when I get a SYE and a new driveshaft to go with it. Not sure when that will be though. Jeep on! --Pete P.S. I can't see how running 0 degrees will make a joint fail. If there's no movement of the needle bearings, where does the heat come from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted August 15, 2005 Author Share Posted August 15, 2005 This is where I got most of the info, and the 0º info: www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 15, 2005 Share Posted August 15, 2005 I skimmed through it and couldn't find where it said that. But I did find that I misspoke earlier and said CV instead of Double Cardon. D'oh! I fixed it now. Even DC driveshafts shouldn't be set to exactly 0*, but I only saw the"rise in pinion angle from applied torque" as the reason. Maybe it was in reference to the single cardon shafts. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted August 15, 2005 Author Share Posted August 15, 2005 I did so much research on it I forget where I saw the recommendation against 0º. Your point makes a lot of sense though. The POR article was tough to skim over looking for one sentence, I looked for that quote for a while and gave up. I'm gonna set my pinion parallel with the TC output, I'm not going to worry about the <3º pinion rise at cruising speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Good flex shots here Pete :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now