Sir Sam Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Working on a 01WJ replacing the front axle housing. Housing is bent and the passenger axle shaft is bound up and won't come out. Right now I'm thinking that if I can get the cross shaft out, and then the spider gears out that I will be able to put a rod through the drivers side tube and try tapping the axle shaft out. BUT; There does not appear to be a bolt to remove to let the cross pin fall out, and I've tried giving it a few taps and nada. So.....anyone know how to remove the cross pin from a D30? any other thoughts for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 I thought you had to remove the carrier to get it out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 9, 2011 Author Share Posted April 9, 2011 I thought you had to remove the carrier to get it out... Chicken or the Egg? Well I suppose I should have RTFM because the FSM shows you removing the carrier, then removing the pinion, and then drive out a pin that holds the cross shaft in, I get the feeling I am not going to be able to do that in this case, so I need to figure out another way to get this axle shaft out. Blast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Have you tried a slide hammer on the axleshaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 9, 2011 Author Share Posted April 9, 2011 Have you tried a slide hammer on the axleshaft? Nope, and I'm considering how to do that. right now my best thought is to remove the knuckle, which I need to do eventually, and then weld on a slide hammer to the end of the axle shaft and try to get it to come out. Even then I think I'm going to skip the slide hammer, if the axle didn't want to come out with all the hammering I did I doubt a slide hammer is going to help. Right now my best idea is to take a piece of steel, weld it to the end of the shaft, then get my porta power out and put one end on the axle somewhere(maybe the part of the housing where the pinion sits) and then try jacking it out that way. Man, I really wish I had found an axle with 3.55's. Dammit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 The D30 has a spring pin holding the cross shaft in. There's a little hole you can stick a thin rod in to knock it out. I know from experience that with 3.55 gears the cross shaft will not clear the ring gear meaning the carrier needs to be removed to remove the ring gear before the cross shaft can come out. Don;t know about other ratios. I had a 3.07 sitting around but gave it away before looking at it. Also have a 4.10 around somewhere, but can't remember offhand where it is at. (I have at least three, possibly as many as five front D30s, some complete, most partial, hiding in 4000 square feet of weeds called my back yard :oops: ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 I know from experience that with 3.55 gears the cross shaft will not clear the ring gear meaning the carrier needs to be removed to remove the ring gear before the cross shaft can come out. Mother@#$%@#$@#%$@#!@#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man I'm pissed at this thing right now. Time for a beer and bust out the welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Have you tried a slide hammer on the axleshaft? Nope, and I'm considering how to do that. right now my best thought is to remove the knuckle, which I need to do eventually, and then weld on a slide hammer to the end of the axle shaft and try to get it to come out. Don't have the plate for the lug studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Have you tried a slide hammer on the axleshaft? Nope, and I'm considering how to do that. right now my best thought is to remove the knuckle, which I need to do eventually, and then weld on a slide hammer to the end of the axle shaft and try to get it to come out. Don't have the plate for the lug studs? Ah no, way past that now, I hammered off the unit bearing and all and I'm down to the inner shaft now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Have you tried a slide hammer on the axleshaft? Nope, and I'm considering how to do that. right now my best thought is to remove the knuckle, which I need to do eventually, and then weld on a slide hammer to the end of the axle shaft and try to get it to come out. Don't have the plate for the lug studs? Ah no, way past that now, I hammered off the unit bearing and all and I'm down to the inner shaft now. If you've got the bearing, and the plate for the slide hammer, personally, I'd put it back on enough to use the hammer. But that's me. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Have you tried a slide hammer on the axleshaft? Nope, and I'm considering how to do that. right now my best thought is to remove the knuckle, which I need to do eventually, and then weld on a slide hammer to the end of the axle shaft and try to get it to come out. Don't have the plate for the lug studs? Ah no, way past that now, I hammered off the unit bearing and all and I'm down to the inner shaft now. If you've got the bearing, and the plate for the slide hammer, personally, I'd put it back on enough to use the hammer. But that's me. :dunno: I don't think you understand, the force of me hammering it out separated the joint, the hub and "stub" shaft all stayed together. (don't get me wrong through, I appreciate the willingness to help ) I welded a bar onto the end and then tried to hammer it off, I did nothing but rip the metal away at the edge of the HAZ. Looks like I need to source some D30 low pinion 3.55 gears. Might just pull them out of the LP D30 thats in the front of the MJ right now. Dammit this sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 So ya, I'm fukked right now. Not sure what to do next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I know from experience that with 3.55 gears the cross shaft will not clear the ring gear meaning the carrier needs to be removed to remove the ring gear before the cross shaft can come out. Mother@#$%@#$@#%$@#!@#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man I'm pissed at this thing right now. Time for a beer and bust out the welder. If you don't mind ruining the gear set, you can grind off the part of the ring gear teeth that interfere with the cross shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 I know from experience that with 3.55 gears the cross shaft will not clear the ring gear meaning the carrier needs to be removed to remove the ring gear before the cross shaft can come out. Mother@#$%@#$@#%$@#!@#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man I'm pissed at this thing right now. Time for a beer and bust out the welder. If you don't mind ruining the gear set, you can grind off the part of the ring gear teeth that interfere with the cross shaft. Uh, the only reason I'm going to this trouble is because I need the gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 It should not be 'that' stuck in there (I know you know that, just typing it out loud :D ). What parts are you trying to 'save' anyway? WJ's are all 3.55's, or 3.73's, with the 3.55's axles being the less desirable axle to most, so it can't be the gears you want (can it?). Since the housing is toast, you could try cutting the axle tube off (leaving the shaft sticking out). Then you ought to have enough room to set up some kind of a redneck hydrolic puller with a bottle jack, and a wedge welded to the side of the axleshaft. If you think you will be able to straighten the bent tube somehow (and were planning on re-using the housing), try to straighten it a little with the shaft in it, maybe that will take some of the load off it. If you just want a WJ 3.55 gears, I have a set in my scrap pile right now. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I know from experience that with 3.55 gears the cross shaft will not clear the ring gear meaning the carrier needs to be removed to remove the ring gear before the cross shaft can come out. Mother@#$%@#$@#%$@#!@#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man I'm pissed at this thing right now. Time for a beer and bust out the welder. If you don't mind ruining the gear set, you can grind off the part of the ring gear teeth that interfere with the cross shaft. Uh, the only reason I'm going to this trouble is because I need the gears. I missed this part, I'll mail you the set in my scrap bin. :wrench: Let me double check their condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 It should not be 'that' stuck in there (I know you know that, just typing it out loud :D ). What parts are you trying to 'save' anyway? WJ's are all 3.55's, or 3.73's, with the 3.55's axles being the less desirable axle to most, so it can't be the gears you want (can it?). Since the housing is toast, you could try cutting the axle tube off (leaving the shaft sticking out). Then you ought to have enough room to set up some kind of a redneck hydrolic puller with a bottle jack, and a wedge welded to the side of the axleshaft. If you think you will be able to straighten the bent tube somehow (and were planning on re-using the housing), try to straighten it a little with the shaft in it, maybe that will take some of the load off it. If you just want a WJ 3.55 gears, I have a set in my scrap pile right now. ;) For my recent WJ flip I needed to replace the front axle. Since it was a 4L it had 3.55's I haven't been able to find a 4L WJ for quite awhile. So I decided that I would just pull a V8 axle and switch in my gears. So now I have a good WJ D30 with 3.73 gears and a badly bent WJ D30 with the 3.55 gears. Since this is not a personal project but a income generating project I need to get it done as quick as I can, I don't have the luxury of waiting a month untill I can find a 3.55 front axle. So yes it is the gears I want, and I might just have to pull them from my MJ just so I can get this WJ back together, but I am also considering busting out the earplugs and grinder tomorrow and trying to cut through the tube to get the axle free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 I missed this part, I'll mail you the set in my scrap bin. :wrench: Let me double check their condition. And now I see that you missed this part after I wrote a clarification of what I said before. No need to send me any gears, its not that I couldn't get some 3.55 LP gears, its just that I'm trying to figure out the best way - keep at this axle, or spend half a day driving to the junkyards and working in nasty conditions to get one. (when I can stay home and work in nasty conditions to get one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 are you trying to save the 3.55 axle itself, or put the gears into the 3.73 axle? should be a pretty close wear pattern between the two. When I bent my d30, I had to torch the axle tube out between the UCA mounts dead center of the axle. once the tube was torched, I was able to remove the shaft, and remove the carrier and pinion. the gears had a nice pattern when they went in the new housing...almost perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 are you trying to save the 3.55 axle itself, or put the gears into the 3.73 axle? should be a pretty close wear pattern between the two. When I bent my d30, I had to torch the axle tube out between the UCA mounts dead center of the axle. once the tube was torched, I was able to remove the shaft, and remove the carrier and pinion. the gears had a nice pattern when they went in the new housing...almost perfect. Thats what I'm hoping, is that just switching stock for stock I can keep the nice wear pattern. Ya I can imagine yours was harder to pull, that thing was BENT. I think I'm going to try cutting it out tomorrow, grinder and earplug time man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 are you trying to save the 3.55 axle itself, or put the gears into the 3.73 axle? should be a pretty close wear pattern between the two. When I bent my d30, I had to torch the axle tube out between the UCA mounts dead center of the axle. once the tube was torched, I was able to remove the shaft, and remove the carrier and pinion. the gears had a nice pattern when they went in the new housing...almost perfect. Thats what I'm hoping, is that just switching stock for stock I can keep the nice wear pattern. Ya I can imagine yours was harder to pull, that thing was BENT. I think I'm going to try cutting it out tomorrow, grinder and earplug time man. I could have pulled it IF it was a non-disconnect, and I could grab the ears and pull. but I had the problem you're having...could not push from the opposite side with a punch, couldn't get it any other way. grinder will take awhile...you don't have a torch to chop it out? that took only a few minutes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 are you trying to save the 3.55 axle itself, or put the gears into the 3.73 axle? should be a pretty close wear pattern between the two. When I bent my d30, I had to torch the axle tube out between the UCA mounts dead center of the axle. once the tube was torched, I was able to remove the shaft, and remove the carrier and pinion. the gears had a nice pattern when they went in the new housing...almost perfect. Thats what I'm hoping, is that just switching stock for stock I can keep the nice wear pattern. Ya I can imagine yours was harder to pull, that thing was BENT. I think I'm going to try cutting it out tomorrow, grinder and earplug time man. I could have pulled it IF it was a non-disconnect, and I could grab the ears and pull. but I had the problem you're having...could not push from the opposite side with a punch, couldn't get it any other way. grinder will take awhile...you don't have a torch to chop it out? that took only a few minutes... Nope, and I can't justify buying a plasma cutter just for this. I don't have any ears to pull on, since this is a WJ shaft its a CV, so there are no ears to pull, just a splined shaft after I ripped the CV joint off of it. I'm really starting to hate CV's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 are you trying to save the 3.55 axle itself, or put the gears into the 3.73 axle? should be a pretty close wear pattern between the two. When I bent my d30, I had to torch the axle tube out between the UCA mounts dead center of the axle. once the tube was torched, I was able to remove the shaft, and remove the carrier and pinion. the gears had a nice pattern when they went in the new housing...almost perfect. Thats what I'm hoping, is that just switching stock for stock I can keep the nice wear pattern. Ya I can imagine yours was harder to pull, that thing was BENT. I think I'm going to try cutting it out tomorrow, grinder and earplug time man. I could have pulled it IF it was a non-disconnect, and I could grab the ears and pull. but I had the problem you're having...could not push from the opposite side with a punch, couldn't get it any other way. grinder will take awhile...you don't have a torch to chop it out? that took only a few minutes... Nope, and I can't justify buying a plasma cutter just for this. I don't have any ears to pull on, since this is a WJ shaft its a CV, so there are no ears to pull, just a splined shaft after I ripped the CV joint off of it. I'm really starting to hate CV's. I can do some neat things with an oxy/acedaline torch that the average joe can easily do with a plasma cutter.... and you can get a small backpack torch fairly cheap. they're extremely nice to have around...love mine, and I can cut as thin as 1/8" wide lines through 1" steel with it, if I take my time and let the torch do the work. just pointing out that a plasma cutter capable of cutting through something as thick as an axle tube really is overkill, and there are cheaper options... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 are you trying to save the 3.55 axle itself, or put the gears into the 3.73 axle? should be a pretty close wear pattern between the two. When I bent my d30, I had to torch the axle tube out between the UCA mounts dead center of the axle. once the tube was torched, I was able to remove the shaft, and remove the carrier and pinion. the gears had a nice pattern when they went in the new housing...almost perfect. Thats what I'm hoping, is that just switching stock for stock I can keep the nice wear pattern. Ya I can imagine yours was harder to pull, that thing was BENT. I think I'm going to try cutting it out tomorrow, grinder and earplug time man. I could have pulled it IF it was a non-disconnect, and I could grab the ears and pull. but I had the problem you're having...could not push from the opposite side with a punch, couldn't get it any other way. grinder will take awhile...you don't have a torch to chop it out? that took only a few minutes... Nope, and I can't justify buying a plasma cutter just for this. I don't have any ears to pull on, since this is a WJ shaft its a CV, so there are no ears to pull, just a splined shaft after I ripped the CV joint off of it. I'm really starting to hate CV's. I can do some neat things with an oxy/acedaline torch that the average joe can easily do with a plasma cutter.... and you can get a small backpack torch fairly cheap. they're extremely nice to have around...love mine, and I can cut as thin as 1/8" wide lines through 1" steel with it, if I take my time and let the torch do the work. just pointing out that a plasma cutter capable of cutting through something as thick as an axle tube really is overkill, and there are cheaper options... Ya, but if I had a plasma cutting I could get a torchmate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Well that took much less time than I thought, I was thinking I was going to be spending an hour cutting through that tube, but the cutoff wheel sliced through it like butter! Took about 3 minutes total to cut through it, then the axle shaft pulled right out. I had been thinking of cutting through the tube as a last resort, because I figured it would take much longer than it did, but man, I should have done that sooner! Lessen learned I suppose: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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