KYMANCHE Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 I have a 1992 longbed, Non CAD axle. I've looked all over here but couldn't really come up with any solid solutions for why I'm stuck in 4wd. I'm in the process of getting a replacement TCU because the one I have is incorrect, could that have anything to do with it? Thanks in advance, hope someone can help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 When I bought my 90, it was stuck in 4wd hi. Between my friend yanking on the handle and me underneath with an adjustable wrench directly on the lever, we were able to get it into 2wd for the drive home from the seller. Turns out that the lever itself was rusted solid in the cab. How's the floor look underneath where the linkage is? any rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 The floors ended up being rotted out. So I gutted it, fiberglassed the whole thing, and then coated it with Herculiner. Then welded in Volkswagen seats I had and did a whole custom interior. But besides the fact, I tried moving the lever back and fourth from inside the truck, and also underneath it with no result. It's a bit rusty down there, but from what I can see the linkage is working properly. Without a CAD the system works WITHOUT vacuum correct? I'm just not familiar with this type of system and I'm reaching out to you more knowledgable people to point me in the right direction. -Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 only the CAD works on vacuum. the t-case shifts with the lever. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Before I had all the same tire size on my 1991, I tossed it into 4 wheel to test it on dry pavement, and got it LOCKED up. It started binding good, and I ended up having to back down the block, turning the wheel slightly back and fourth as I did to unbind it. As I did that, I muscled the level back down. Give that a shot. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Thanks for the info Pete! And thanks man, I've tried putting it in reverse to try to free it up. However I didn't try turning the wheels back and fourth. I'll give that a shot. Did you move the lever as you did it? If that doesn't work, where should I go from there? I'm assuming something faulty in the T-Case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailReadyMJ Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Is the lever actually stuck, or does it feel like it's shifting fine, just not coming out of 4x4? :hijack: Got any pics of this custom interior you speak of?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 The lever moves throughout all 4 selections no problem, my lever is on 2H and I'm still in 4wd. And at the moment, I do not. But I'll be sure to take some! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailReadyMJ Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Alright, that rules out a stuck shift linkage.... Now, does it engage in 4lo and neutral? If not, it could be the shift fork in the t-case. If it does, it could be something binding keeping it from dis-engaging, or the linkage just isn't adjusted properly. I too have a non-CAD axle, and also have a lock right in it. I have to do the turn the wheel back and fourth thing to get it into 2wd, but have always blamed the locker for the binding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Hm, Well I tried it in 4lo and that works. When I shifted the lever back to 2, it went right back into 4H. I'm at a loss right now. I checked ALLDATA and the only repairs and adjustments that came up were for the linkage. They said to put a spacer in, but I don't believe that's the problem. It could be, but I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 if everything else works, then it could be that the linkage just needs adjusting or that your plastic bushings need replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Thank you! It's been awhile since I've been able to get on this between working and plowing. I haven't had the chance to try to adjust the linkage, but once I do I will let you know how it works out! Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Hey guys, I adjusted the linkage. Visually, It didnt look like it did much. It was all caked with mud. However, the other night when I went to go plow.. I shifted the lever into 4h, and the light came on for the first time. Then I put it in 2, the light went off like it should. I spun the tires in the snow with my head out of the window, and only the rear tires spun :thumbsup: I just tested it again, and it takes moving the lever 2 times, pushing hard forward to get it out. So I think I am going to adjust it further. Thanks for all the input, it really sent me in the right direction. It's still a little jumpy when I have the wheel cut all the way, but I would imagine that's just my big tires. (This is my first lifted Comanche with big tires) I also have another question. It's pretty wierd when starting. When I start it at first, it chugs for awhile and continues to as it turns over. Then it instantly dies. I start it a 2nd time, it starts up quicker with less chugging, and runs for a bit longer but then proceeds to die. On the third start up, it starts just fine. Sometimes it will start to sputter, but then I suppose some kind of cold start kicks in and gives it a little throttle. Once it's warm, it starts up and idles just fine. I tested the fuel pressure, did a leak down test, changed the TPS, and fuel filter. I'm pretty stumped, has anyone had the same issue? or any ideas to what it could be? I installed a remote start on it, but rarely use it due to this issue. Any info would be great! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 The floors ended up being rotted out. So I gutted it, fiberglassed the whole thing, and then coated it with Herculiner. -Thanks! You fiberglassed the floors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 The floors ended up being rotted out. So I gutted it, fiberglassed the whole thing, and then coated it with Herculiner. -Thanks! You fiberglassed the floors? Indeed I did. I ordered metal pans to weld in. They were like 100something$, but they sent me the wrong ones. So I thought to myself I can do it much cheaper and easier with fiberglass cloth and resin. So I sent them back. I sanded the floors, sprayed rust neutralizer on it to keep it from spreading, and then fiberglassed the whole floor midway up the center hump. Sanded it when it was dry. Got some herculiner, and coated the entire floor, and back wall up to the plastic trim piece going across underneath the rear windshield. Worked great, was pretty easy, and was cheaper than the sheetmetal. The bed liner was the most expensive thing. My only complaint would be the noise, since there's no more carpet to muffle the sound/vibrations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 The floors ended up being rotted out. So I gutted it, fiberglassed the whole thing, and then coated it with Herculiner. -Thanks! You fiberglassed the floors? Indeed I did. I ordered metal pans to weld in. They were like 100something$, but they sent me the wrong ones. So I thought to myself I can do it much cheaper and easier with fiberglass cloth and resin. So I sent them back. I sanded the floors, sprayed rust neutralizer on it to keep it from spreading, and then fiberglassed the whole floor midway up the center hump. Sanded it when it was dry. Got some herculiner, and coated the entire floor, and back wall up to the plastic trim piece going across underneath the rear windshield. Worked great, was pretty easy, and was cheaper than the sheetmetal. The bed liner was the most expensive thing. My only complaint would be the noise, since there's no more carpet to muffle the sound/vibrations. OK I am not sure about your local laws but in Canada fiber glassing floors in a uni-body is not only illegal but really just plain unsafe. I am not trying to be a price here but in your truck the floors are part of the structure, when you fiberglass the floors it does not in any way put that strength back into the chassis. Floors for a Comanche are basically the same as a XJ but you need to remove the floor spine to install them. Please take this criticism as constructive; but for your own safety I would revisit your floor repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 glad to hear it's working properly again! :wrench: you might want to repost your new question as a new topic though. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 You have a point, and I respect your concern. However, the entire floor was not missing. Structurally, the floor was there. Along with a few random holes. The biggest hole was maybe a 3" jagged square. The fiberglass acts more like a sealant rather than an addition to the structure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMANCHE Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 glad to hear it's working properly again! :wrench: you might want to repost your new question as a new topic though. :thumbsup: Thanks! I will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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