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Quick paint question:


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Just a quick paint question for y'all. I am looking to paint the Farmer, and my boss who is going to be helping me re-do it, had a question as to what type/method was used from the factory as far as paint goes. I honestly don't know. He was curious if there was a clear, or just base coat... yadda yadda... Paint isn't my thing.

 

'87 MJ:

73823_160337644003731_100000824882082_264455_3750310_n.jpg

 

Thanks fellas.

Rob L. :cheers:

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Standard base and clear , I kind of wish they would have used a better method , I think most of our trucks would be in better shape .

Wet sanding after first and second coat of prime offers a way better flatter finish but that depends on your patience and time frame for completion .

I've just sprayed the crap out of it before without much sanding between coats and it came out great except some orange peal effect in the finish .

Different paints and thinners from different companies act different , I'd say use what paint and methods he has seen to be successful .

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He wants me to take it down to bare steel, but was contemplating getting away with sand/paint depending on how the factory paint was. Being that our trucks have a ton of clear coat failures, it might be best to take it down and not rely on the factory job for adhesion.

 

Rob L.

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Probably no reason to strip it to steel unless there's some cancer , Ideally you can just " scuff " the old clear off if the surface is straight and clean .

Trick is to get all the sanding dust out of the scuffed surface before applying any other coats . However once clean , the base primer coat will stick real good to the old surface .

Its been a long time since I've painted anything so newer products are probably available and easier methods might be available .

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Thought about doing the old Rustoleum roll-on?

 

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master ... paint.html

 

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1

(starts midway down the first page)

 

It's not factory, but it seems to get the job done with a minimum of expense, and if you take the time, it can look pretty darn good. When I get around to painting mine, that's how I'm going to do it.

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Bare steel is OK if you want to, but you will have to reproduce the E-coat somehow (the anticorrosion coat) that was applied at the factory.

 

A better way is to sand the truck until smooth (filling or raising low areas) and then apply an inexpensive epoxy primer. The E-P will "seal" the old finishes and give a nice new surface for the new paint to stick to.

 

The E-P is a two stage paint that will not add any signifigant time to the job, but you really can't sand the vehicle afterwards - just apply the finish coat.

 

Good Luck!

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Bare steel is OK if you want to, but you will have to reproduce the E-coat somehow (the anticorrosion coat) that was applied at the factory.

 

A better way is to sand the truck until smooth (filling or raising low areas) and then apply an inexpensive epoxy primer. The E-P will "seal" the old finishes and give a nice new surface for the new paint to stick to.

 

The E-P is a two stage paint that will not add any signifigant time to the job, but you really can't sand the vehicle afterwards - just apply the finish coat.

 

Good Luck!

:agree:

Without the primer coat the newer paint has a problem sticking to bare metal , it tends to run on you if you're not careful on the first couple passes and sometimes it never really bonds to the surface completely anyway . My favorite paint jobs have the baked on method , trying not to go down to the metal unless I had too and using a two stage primer / sealer .

I also used fine cut fiberglass instead of Bondo in areas where I had no choice but to fill . However thats allot of work on that stuff , but the fiberglass lasts soooo much longer up here in

UV ray town .

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one thing that i was also considering doing was taking it down to bare metal and using por15 to do the whole bed and the lower half of my cab but I live in the major rust belt. Also avoid switching brands of paint. Different brand paints can react badly with eachother which will turn into a mess. I painted a spare hood for my XJ and I used sherwin williams primer with summit flat black. I forgot to add hardner to it so i let it fully dry for alittle over a week. I went to run my hand over the paint to feel the finish and huge sheets of the black paint peeled off like i painted over teflon.

 

 

 

Josh

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