beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 ok, so i figured out a bunch of the stupid little problems, but these have me stumped. first of all-brake lights/hazard lights- blinkers work fine, parking lights work fine, headlights work fine, reverse lights work fine. when i put a fuse in the brake light/hazard light fuse spot they work awhile then the fuse melts/pops, the socket the fuse goes into is also slightly burnt looking. what could cause this and can i bypass that fuse slot and just add a fuse inline? seems that the burnt slot is part of the problem. second-dash lights- they don't work, at all, high beam and blinker indicators work but the dash lights themselves don't. fuse is good. any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 you need to fix the short first. and if the fuse holder is melted that bad the fuse box may need to be replaced. here's an all out last ditch effort to find the short, this is if you can't find it at all, and I never told you this: put a paper clip where the fuse goes, and look for the smoke, it will start smoking where the problem is. :banana: if you don't see anything after a few seconds, turn it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 lol, i though of that. figure if it dosnt start smoking anywhere then theres no problem right?---fire extinguisher at the ready--- anyone else have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86MJ2WD Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Get out your wire'n diagram , locate your grounds clean and inspect them take a good look at your wires were they insert into any conectors , please if you have to replace one soilder it ! 4by'n , bouncy bounce , if you just crimp it it will only work loose again and possiblie leave you stranded or worse we could loose a nother presiouse mj to a fire OR WORSE AGAIN YOU A MEMBER !. Not saying this will cure the problem but that would be my first step . And my 2 cents worth . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 replace the fuse with a amp meter. I made a special set of leads for mine with spade lugs instead of probes so I could plug it in and monitor whatever tests or what ever that I'm doing.If there isn't any thing on then there shouldn't be a reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 sidebar- the "etr" fuse(clock and radio from what I'm reading?) blows as soon as i stick a fuse in it, any fuse, amp rating dosnt matter, p.o. has the radio wired off the "clock" position in the fuse box. wtf? thinking if i rip out the radio and wiring ill find something weird, as for the brake lights/hazzard lights issue i may just use an aux fuse block to replace that one melted fuse area, i need one for the aux lights and so on anyways... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Melted looking fuse holder!? The first question should be auto, or stick? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 its a stick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 no ac, no options, everything is manual lol, kept it simple. looked at the trailer wiring the p.o. did and its all seperated and done right, think ill remove it anyway, but that dosnt look like the problem. blinkers, reverse, and parking lights all work good, just the brake lights/hazards blow the fuse, so i know the rear ground is good, i put a 15 amp fuse in it and it worked for awhile then poof no more. grrr.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 no ac, no options, everything is manual lol, kept it simple. looked at the trailer wiring the p.o. did and its all seperated and done right, think ill remove it anyway, but that dosnt look like the problem. blinkers, reverse, and parking lights all work good, just the brake lights/hazards blow the fuse, so i know the rear ground is good, i put a 15 amp fuse in it and it worked for awhile then poof no more. grrr.... Does it look like the clutch master has ever leaked down the firewall and into the fuse box? Any greasy residue? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 very little if any greasy goo. actually looked like someone had whacked the fusebox with their foot at some point, as most of the fuses were cracked or broken, i replaced all of them and thats when i noticed the bad fuse spot for the brake/hazard. one terminal is fine, the other is burnt/melted. the fuse was stuck in there good, had to pick it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Sounds like it once had a clutch master leak. It will make the fuses look exactly like you said. They become brittle, crack, and swell. Looks like they melted, but the brake fluid is caustic to the plastics in the fuses and fuse box. I would take a closer look... I would search for a pic from MFPDM's build with the Clutch master kissed fuse box, but its getting late. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 ill search for that pic. think ill pull the fuse box tomorrow and check it out better, i know it shifts great and seems to have a newer clutch, don't see any signs of leaks either so hopefully it was a past problem and not a new one!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 ill search for that pic. think ill pull the fuse box tomorrow and check it out better, i know it shifts great and seems to have a newer clutch, don't see any signs of leaks either so hopefully it was a past problem and not a new one!! Even if it was a past problem, means its a current one. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Found the pics: This morning I decided to take a closer look at the fuse box. I was having some electrical issues like no dash lights, no dome light, turn signals etc, and I wanted to check for damage from the old clutch master cylinder leak. I had pulled the fuse for the instrument light and replaced it. It still didn't work, so I tweaked the fuse box connectors with the end of my test probe and Voila dash lights. Further inspection showed a few more issues. Like missing and and crumbling fuses: My inspection also included the solution for the mystery jumper. One side of the terminal for the HAZ/BRAKE fuse was gone :eek: and the previous owner had put a fused jumper between the remaining side of the HAZ/BRAKE slot and the power side of the unused HTD/WDN slot. I decided to replace all of the fuses, several crumbled when I removed them: The new fuses and a little tweaking got my lights up and running. I'm going to do a little research and may look into replacing the entire fuse box, but I'll leave that for another day. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 yep, thatd be what my box looks like, and the missing spot in those pics is the burnt spot on my fuse box, so ill be doing the fused jumper trick to test if that works, have to probe the dome/dash light fuse spots like he mentioned and see if i can get it going, if not then ill tap into the parking lights for a dash light power source Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl1200aman Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 If that is the case, can you replace the fuse panel/block without the whole harness or do you need to replace the whole thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 looked at it better in the daylight today. clutch master is leaking..dammit.. part is cheap, looks easy to do, hoping i don't need to replace who whole fusebox. for now i jammed a rag above the fusebox to keep the brake fluid drips to a minimum can you replace the fusebox seperatly or do you need to replace the whole harness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaterheep Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 cleaned the fuse box with brake cleaner. replaced missing or broken fuses, made a new fuse holder for the brake/haz slot. holy crap everything works, well, after i ripped out all the old stereo crap, trailer harness, and wires to no where thanks to the old owner....new clutch master goes in this week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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