88pioneer Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 I'm in the process of changing out my starter relay in hopes that this is my problem. But of course that creates another problem :wall: . My relay has 4 prongs and a stud on it for connection points. The problem here is that every manual I read and every parts store i've gone to only have one with 3 prongs. Is this how they came factory? The manual I'm looking at has the stud labeled battery, and the prongs labeled (SOL) solenoid, (I) ignition, (G) ground. My relay has all these and an extra one labeled (F) Does anyone know what this is for? Can I bypass it? Red arrow points to the mystery terminal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 What manual is that diagram from? Remember the ballast resistor and related by-pass circuit was introduced in the 1988 model year. (And as a TSB update for the 1987s.) I wonder if the 'F' terminal on yours powers the fuel pump, perhaps on the bypass mode? The diagram in the book may not have taken the ballast resistor circuit into account. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 got that out of my chilton. I guess it could be fuel related, but i can not find one with that (F) prong. I just ordered one without, i guess i'll see what happens. I traced the wire as far as i can without taking anything apart, and it runs into the front clip near the PS headlight. I may tear the nose off an trace it farther. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 traced the wire some more, and found it does in deed go to the ballast resistor. so now i guess i need to find one with 4 prongs. this is gonna suck :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 If you can get a 1989 FSM, Electrical, page 8W-182 (wire diagrams) diagram #9. It shows the 5 terminal starter relay as your asking, and the sectional view show the 20 ga Orange wire coming off the "5th" terminal, which is also internally connected with the starter solenoid. Splicing that should solve your problem, as the fuel pump is still controlled thru the right hand shock tower's fuel pump relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl1200aman Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 The picture shows the 4 prongs and it is 19.95 plus S&H. You can also call them to verify it is the right one. (262) 658-2268 They are in Kenosha, WI. http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bin/partsSQL/search.cgi?query=starter+relay&catid=95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 i'm going to pick it up, guess i'll give it a shot. Guess I should splice it into the ignition wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 spliced the fuel wire into the solenoid wire. hooked everything back up and still nothing. i'm out of ideas :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 Or.......you do what some of us do........watch one show up on e-bay and when no one bids, snag it for $10 and keep it on your shelf. .......at least that's how I got one about 2 months ago :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl1200aman Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 why pay $10 for a used one when you can buy a new one for $19.95? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 i don't think the solenoid is my problem since it still won't start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl1200aman Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 I thought he was saying to buy the relay used for $10 off of ebay and was asking why. The link I posted has the relay with the 4 male spade terminals and 1 screw for $19.95 and it is new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 This is the problem with starting new threads to discuss old problems. What is the problem? I know -- no start. No turn over? No fuel? No spark? I can't find the original discussion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 why pay $10 for a used one when you can buy a new one for $19.95? It wasn't used, it was brand new from a parts house close out. I don't buy used electronics items :no: And.......to answer Mr. Eagles question, the original post was what to do with a 4 terminal starter relay when a 5 terminal relay is required, and I posted in the 5th post, what to do, and how to verified the info I posted. The additional info was posted where to buy a 5 post Jeep starter relay, and I just added that they can be found on e-bay (brand new). Yes, most posts get side track around here, But.......this is the ComanchClub :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 And.......to answer Mr. Eagles question, the original post was what to do with a 4 terminal starter relay when a 5 terminal relay is required, and I posted in the 5th post, what to do, and how to verified the info I posted. No, that was the beginning of THIS thread. What I want to know is -- what are the symptoms of the no-start problem, since that's what led to seeking a new starter relay. That information is hidden away in another thread somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 indeed it is, symptoms are no crank or anything. I have power to everything. Relay wasn't clicking, and neither does the new one. Not sure where to go from here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Begin at the beginning, Grasshopper. The sequence of power is: ignition switch ==> relay ==> solenoid ==> starter. If the relay doesn't click, and a NEW relay doesn't click, you need to use a test light or multimeter to verify whether or not you are getting power to the relay when the key is turned to START. Assuming the test light or multimeter confirms no power, you need to look UPstream, not downstream. Ignition switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 thats going to be this weekends work. my brother and I are going to go through an trace all the wires, an check power on all of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 As a quick test, remove the wire from the relay terminal marked "Ignition." Short that to the threaded stud where the lead from the battery connects. That should energize the solenoid and make the starter spin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 Hmm, i'll give that a shot. I'm really gonna tear into it this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 As a quick test, remove the wire from the relay terminal marked "Ignition." Short that to the threaded stud where the lead from the battery connects. That should energize the solenoid and make the starter spin. To clarify -- You want to short the battery (screw) terminal to the "Ignition" terminal. Don't connect the wire from the ignition terminal to the threaded stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 i'll give it a shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Now for my ignition switch, do i need an ignition switch or an ignition starter switch? I'm thinking its ignition starter switch, but i just want to make sure before I buy it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Is this the ignition starter switch? because if it is, then its in a spot where i physically can't put my hands :wall: . Now i'm really out of ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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