Has anyone used Explorer E Brake cables with their 8.8 swap

[bighause]

I finally got my 8.8 cleaned up, welded, painted and swapped in only to find out one of my E brake cables going to the axle is seized up and the other isn't much better (explains why the brake didn't work well before).

 

Has anyone used the explorer cables along with the axle? It looks like you could use 2 of the right side cables and they would be close to the same length.

[Comanche County]

I used the D35 cables that came on the MJ for my 8.8. I just doubled them over with small cable clamps to form a loop, then slid the loop over the 8.8's E-brake levers. It worked fine, there's several posts here about the 8.8 swap that show a couple of different ways to do it.

[bighause]

Yeah, I know about that method :cheers:

 

That is currently how my D35 cables are connected to the 8.8 but the cables are shot. If I'm gong to have to buy new cables I was just wondering if I would be better off getting explorer ones and not using the cable clamp method.

[Pete M]

are the explorer cables long enough?

[bighause]

Does anyone know how long the explorer cables are? None of the parts stores around here have any in stock to measure and I haven't been able to make another trip to the JY.

[HOrnbrod]

Just replace your stuck MJ e-brake cables (get new ones from RockAuto or many other sources), then use the generic Ford clevis to attach them to the 8.8 e-brake lever. Slot the Ford clevis, open it up enough to insert the MJ e-brake cable end, squeeze it shut, then adjust as required. There's plenty of adjustment available at the bellcrank where the left and right cable join. Works well.

 

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[bighause]

Is that ford clevis available at auto parts stores? I've never seen that method, thanks for the pic that seems like the way to go.

[HOrnbrod]

Junkyard, or from Lokar.

[64 Cheyenne]

I was just working on this very thing yesterday. I used the cable clamp method, with cables off of the donor XJ (I think they were from the XJ, I just dug them out of "parts"). I found that that both sides have to be pretty even where you make the bend and place the clamp. If not the adjustment/balance bar will be uneven. PIA to get it even. I also left 2 1/2" inches of return spring on, to do it again I would only leave about 2" to 2 1/4" of spring. My only other concern was that the actuating lever where it enters the rear of the backing plate didn't always seem to return fully to where it is supposed to be. I took it apart a few times, put grease on the pivot points. I'm hoping that with use, the arm will quit sticking, I'll keep an eye on it.

Far as the Exploder cables, I looked at them seen the different lengths and threw them away.

Cost of using the XJ cables, less than 5 bucks, 2 cable clamps and 2 thimbles.